Noise after starting car - after chain guides done 91 Q45

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gniknave
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I worked my a$$ off to get this job done the right way. I took 110% more care in the work I did to avoid the setbacks I had the first time I did this job on my own car. Now this is a fellow Nico members car.

I got the guides all done and everything put back together, started it up, and there's a bunch of noise. I couldn't even make out one distinct noise to describe it. I know the chains make some noise when the car is started because the new guides aren't lubricated yet. But I know what that sounds like, and while I heard that, I heard a lot more noise as well.

I'm thinking back and internally, there just isn't a single thing that comes to mind that I could have possibly done wrong. The only possible thing I can think of overall is that I either overtightened the crank pulley, or I didn't tighten it enough.

Does anybody know the symtoms of overtightening vs. undertightening the crank pulley?

BTW, I did check the movement of the chains while the cover was still off, and there was no restriction. I have got to get rid of this sound, it almost made me wanna cry!


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RobertsnewQ
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Pop the belts off real quick to check for an accessory issue.

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gniknave
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Forgot to mention that when I started the car, besides the noise, it ran at about 100rpm. Then I shut it off. Couple minutes later I started it up again and it sorta sputtered and went down to 700rpm before I shut it off...

3rd Q
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Evan,I don't think it would be a crank pulley issue. When I did mine I asked Byron at T3 how he got to 290 lb/ft of torque and he said he really doesn't measure it, just uses a persuader bar and tightens till he can't tighten any more. The 2nd time I did my guides I left the FP fuse out and cranked it in short bursts 15 or so times to pump up the tensioners- cut out almost all of the god awful racket at start up.

Paul

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Q451990
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Don't know if this is a possibility for you... but I have put an idler pully on with a washer and cap in the wrong order and got a nasty howling screeching noise.

From what I understand about the crank pully, overtightening isn't a problem - undertightening will cause the oil pump chain to slip...

Good luck!

Heath

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I am with Heath. Check that crank bolt torque.

Then pull the fule pump fuse and let it turn until the oil pressure builds.

Didn't mess with the HLA, did you?

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elwesso
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Will the car stay running?? does it run smooth? how long did you let it run?

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Like 3rd Q said it's the tensioners, esp. if you changed the HLA's. Run it for about 30 secs. then shut it off, then start it again it should pump itself back up.

But I like Paul's way much better. :

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gniknave
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Playing it safe, I took everything apart again and looked everything over just to reassure myself that none of the chains looked cinched. Everything looks good. Even though Wes told me what the HLA's are, I'm still not sure what that is (or maybe I do but don't know that's what it's called?).

A question I have is, if the hydraulic tensioners aren't oiled, would that have caused the rpm to drop and sort of sputter (before I shut the car off)? I'm hoping so, but I'm also doubting it.


squeefoo
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gniknave wrote: Even though Wes told me what the HLA's are, I'm still not sure what that is (or maybe I do but don't know that's what it's called?).
The adjustors that you have slip the upper guides into, the Driver's side has the two studs/10MM nut and slides down into the hole from the top. The other bolts into the lower passenger side front of the block with 2 screws directly from the front (with the little hook). If you took them off then there is air trapped in them but goes away with a couple of starts.

Or you can yank the fuel pump fuse and crank it until you have oil pressure a few times, like Paul said above.
gniknave wrote:A question I have is, if the hydraulic tensioners aren't oiled, would that have caused the rpm to drop and sort of sputter (before I shut the car off)?
Homey says: "I don't think so!"

Did you disconnect the battery ?

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Raxephon
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gniknave wrote:Even though Wes told me what the HLA's are, I'm still not sure what that is (or maybe I do but don't know that's what it's called?).

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Q451990
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HLA = Hydraulic Lash Adjustor = what everyone else calls "lifters"

The tensioners for the timing chains are unrelated. I would do several cranking sessions with the injector fuse and fuel pump fuses removed and see if that helps build pressure.

Heath

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gniknave
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Well here's the end result. I opened everything back up as a precaution Saturday and just double check to make sure all was well with the chains. Everything looked good. Sunday I put everything back together and did the trick to pump up the HLA's (injector and fuel pump fuses out), then attempted to start the car after... It started and then stalled immediately. I kept trying to start it but it just wouldn't turn over (had a fast crank - faster than normal).

I told the car's owner about it, and he had it towed to a shop Monday morning. I had a few clues as to what the problem was, my main one being that the engine may be flooded, but I never did try to press the gas while starting. In the back of my mind I was scared that I killed the car, but I was praying that this wasn't the case.

In the end, I found out today that the engine was indeed flooded. The car now runs better than ever.

I have to thank everybody for their help with getting me through this situation. It was a very stressful week for me and I'm glad it's over!


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Q451990
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Glad to hear that!!! Please make sure the owner does an oil change soon... that gas seeping past the rings during the flooding could dilute the oil.

Heath


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