No Start

The club for Nissan Maxima and Infiniti I30 / I35 owners, and the official home of Maxima Club of America!
JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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89 MAXIMA DRIVE A SHORT TRIP WONT CATCH AT START. AFTER 1 HOUR STARTED , DIED A BLOCK LATER. RESTARTED NEXT DAY. HELP!


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Touchdown038
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Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: Computers, cars, sports
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Sounds like fuel pump to me, but without more info I can't tell you anything.

It cranks but not catches? If so I'd definitely say fuel pump.

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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could also be a coil problem. more info please. when it wont start does it have spark or fuel pressure? does it even crank over when it happens?

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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IT STARTS NICE WHEN COLD. AFTER WARM IT CRANKS NICE WITH NO COUGHING OF TRYING TO START BUT I DO SMELL GAS STRONG SO I DONT THINK PUMP. AFTER COOLS STARTS AGAIN NICE. THANKS TO NISTECH AND ALL THE GREAT GUYS OUT THERE!

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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SHOULD I CHECK THE COIL OR THE STARTER RELAYS FIRST

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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I am assuming the engine turns over but does not fire up here??? So while cranking check for spark at the plug wires. if no spark there then check for spark at coil. if still no spark you need to check for power and ground to the coil with a multimeter.

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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Thanks nistech. spark is ok. I sprayed starting fluid into air cleaner and not even a cough. Whats next?

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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check your fuel pressure see if you got any. due to the design of that intake tube it may be difficult for it to pull the starting fluid in through the throttle plate. try shooting some starting fluid into a vaccum line there are 2 of them at the back of the plentium. pick one and shoot a couple shots of your fluid in there and try to start it. see if it coughs then. if it does you have a fuel supply problem.

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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THANKS LOADS NISTECH. WHY WOULD FUEL CUT OUT TOTALLY ONLY WHEN HOT? CAN IT BE THE CHOKE NOT OPENING?(OR IS IT A SENSOR NOWADAYS)

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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check your coolant temp sensor. I just re read your posts and I came across the one about smelling strong fuel. you should be able to start it hot when the problem exists by holding the throttle to the floor till it kicks over.as long as its got spark it should fire up. If the coolant temp is sending a incorrect signal to the ecm it may over richen it for a hot start. thinking the car is colder then it is. and no your car doesnt have a choke. on injected cars cold start is controled by the computer.

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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oh your checking it for corrosion in the electrical connector.

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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THANKS AGAIN! WHICH ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR? I HELD IT ON THE FLOOR -NOT A HICCUP. CAN IT BE SO RICH THAT IT WOULDNT EVEN COUGH? LATELY I'M GETTING TERRIBLE MILEAGE AND SMELLING GAS FROM THE FRONT WHEN DRIVING AT HIGH SPEED SO IT MIGHT MAKE SENSE.

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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DOES MAKING IT RICH MEAN CUTTING OFF OXYGEN?

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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well yea it will reduse the oxygen in the exhaust due to the high amount of CO(partially burnt fuel). if it gets to rich the effect it has on the intake and burn side is: it doesnt vaporize as well so it wont ignite as easily and the more liqiud state its in the less change the spark has. it essencially extinguishes the burn. the connector your looking for is a 2 wire red or yellow connector near the radiator hose inlet tube. unless you have the older style head temp sensor that is located in the forward cyl head behind the timing cover. if it is that one the best way(easiest) to test it is with an ohm meter you wanna check the resistance at the sub harness near the dist. if it is open you need to replace the sub harness and the sensor. there is a special tool for getting it out from behind the timing cover with out removing the timing cover.

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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NISTECH YOURE A WIZ! WATER READ BAD, I GOT A NEW SENSOR BUT NISSAN HERE IN NJ DOESN,T SELL CONNETORS AND THE PLASTIC IS CORRODED. NISSAN SAYS TO CLEAN THE CONNECTION AND SECURE IT W/ A PAPER CLIP? SHOULD I BUY A SUB HARNESS BETTER? CAN I ORDER IT OVER THE NET? THANKS AGAIN

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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if it is a sub harness. yes its not that much. I assume you have the one on the head? if so the subharness should only be 10 to 12 inches in length. you could probably buy it from one of our sponser dealers. they are in the list to the left.

JACKGGG
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 7:42 pm
Car: 9 KIDS

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SORRY TO BOTHER YOU AGAIN BUT NO ONE CAN GET ME THAT SUB HARNESS W/O A PART # AND I DONT FIND A TAG. IT GOES INTO A PLASTIC TUNNEL AFTER A FEW INCHES. WHAT EXACTLY DO I HAVE TO REPLACE? WHERE DOES THE OTHER END CONNECT TO?

NISTECH
Posts: 12270
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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is this sensor mounted in behind the timing cover on the cyl head toward the front of the car? if so there should be a long white tag taped to the harness between the connector mounted on the top of the timing cover and where it goes in under the cover. some times those tags are hard to read or are missing all together.


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