PAlright Finally went to try to start my RB25 (series 1) today. It has 740cc deatchwerks injectors, greddy intake, power FC. I am getting fuel in all 6 cylinders but no spark from what I can tell. I have the black wire at the back of the motor grounded. I am getting a 12volt signal on the white wire (middle pin) for the coil packs, but no spark. I pulled the coil packs and held a spark plug above a few different things and saw no arc from the spark plug.
I assume the CAS must be ok if the injectors are firing. And the coil packs and igniter worked last year before I took the motor out. So any ideas on what to check next?
Modified by gomer23 at 3:50 PM 5/25/2008
No start :(
Re: No start :( (gomer23)
i would get a DVOM and double check power and ground - i had the same problem with my RB25 S1 not starting - i had fuel and power to the coils but it turned out that the ground wire was bad - it was the ground in the 2 wire plug by the fire wall that supplies power and ground to the coils - idk if this helps but good luck
Re: No start :( (kevwa)
I hope its not the ECU...it was used but supposedly wasnt used for very long and I think I bought it from someone on here or Fresh Alloy. Not that I am ruling it out.
Oh ok that 2 wire plug right by the igniter? I will check that tomorrow. Thanks.
Could it be a bad igniter chip? Any ways to test that?
Oh ok that 2 wire plug right by the igniter? I will check that tomorrow. Thanks.
Could it be a bad igniter chip? Any ways to test that?
Alright I checked that 2 wire plug tonight (power and ground for the coils) And I was not getting 12volts if i put the probes on each side of the plug with the key on. If I moved the ground probe to a different location I would see 12volts. So I then cut the ground for the coils from the harness and grounded it elsewhere but now just seeing 10volts and still no start (the one time I tried)
Also I did test the wires coming from the ECU going to the coil packs. And I was seeing a change in voltage so it appears the ECU is working correctly.
Also I did test the wires coming from the ECU going to the coil packs. And I was seeing a change in voltage so it appears the ECU is working correctly.
Re: (StricNyne)
Haha they seem to be the only thing working right now lol.
Anyway here is an update. I have spark now and fuel but still no start. I have initialized the Power FC, and shut off the boost controller function as well. The car sounds like it wants to start (poping noises and the exhaust manifold it warm after a few tries.) I know it has compression (installed new headgasket over the winter and replaced rod bearings) I have set the Power FC to use the VG30 MAF (thats the Z32 right) and set my injectors in the settings. When I go to sensor check I am getting the MAF as highlighted black with it unplugged or plugged in. Will the Power FC not start the car if there isn't a MAF hooked up or recognized?
The reason I was getting no spark was the ECU was shutting off during crank (had rerouted ecu switched 12volt to a different location and it was shutting off during crank.
The reason that was done was because that black/red (or black/pink) wire that is on the KA harness that the ECU switched and Injector power wire hooks up to was holding a 5volt signal when the car was off, thus not turning off the ECU. So does anyone know what that wire goes to and why it be holding a 5volt signal with the key out of the ignition?
Anyway here is an update. I have spark now and fuel but still no start. I have initialized the Power FC, and shut off the boost controller function as well. The car sounds like it wants to start (poping noises and the exhaust manifold it warm after a few tries.) I know it has compression (installed new headgasket over the winter and replaced rod bearings) I have set the Power FC to use the VG30 MAF (thats the Z32 right) and set my injectors in the settings. When I go to sensor check I am getting the MAF as highlighted black with it unplugged or plugged in. Will the Power FC not start the car if there isn't a MAF hooked up or recognized?
The reason I was getting no spark was the ECU was shutting off during crank (had rerouted ecu switched 12volt to a different location and it was shutting off during crank.
The reason that was done was because that black/red (or black/pink) wire that is on the KA harness that the ECU switched and Injector power wire hooks up to was holding a 5volt signal when the car was off, thus not turning off the ECU. So does anyone know what that wire goes to and why it be holding a 5volt signal with the key out of the ignition?
Alright new update. I got the MAF recognized by the Power FC. (my dumbass had a SAFC last year and didnt hook the orn/blue wire back up to the ecu harness) And I figured out the 5volt issue (some harness wasnt plugged in by the fusebox under the hood)
But the car still isnt firing up. So if anyone with a Power FC has things for me to check on that let me know. I have Deatcshwerks 740cc injectors so I have the injectors set at 50% and 0.00ms on the latency right now. I did a sensor check and nothing is highlighted black now but what sensor "dots" should be lit up?
Also when I am cranking the injectors duty cycle goes from .5% to .1% if I crank for more than 5seconds or so.
But the car still isnt firing up. So if anyone with a Power FC has things for me to check on that let me know. I have Deatcshwerks 740cc injectors so I have the injectors set at 50% and 0.00ms on the latency right now. I did a sensor check and nothing is highlighted black now but what sensor "dots" should be lit up?
Also when I am cranking the injectors duty cycle goes from .5% to .1% if I crank for more than 5seconds or so.
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ItzGenX
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Re: (gomer23)
With the duty cycle going down, I would guess that it is the prime function like on my ecu, except mine does it in a different way (fires all injectors at the same time during the first revolution with a 1 second pulse). On another note though, I think .5% duty cycle is rather low, especially for trying to spray enough fuel to start a cold motor. When my SR is idling and fully warm with 72lb MSD injectors, i get around 2-3% duty (15.0 AFR). During cold start up, my duty starts in the range of 8% or so and slowly comes down as it warms.
Check your plugs and see if they are getting wet or fouled. If after a long cranking session without starting, they should at least seem damp. When I say damp, enough to give a light glaze reflection of light and not a river flowing out of the thing when you tip it. If not, then I say you are not spraying enough fuel to bring the ice princess to life. Mine became damp after I installed my C2DI ignition box and forgot to plug it in. I was cranking for about 10 seconds give or take. Pulled the plug to find out I wasn't getting spark and gave myself a tap on the back of the head when I saw the connector hanging there asking to be plugged in. Plugged it in and you know the rest.
I was not fortunate to have a working base map with my ECU when I first bought it. I started from scratch. The first thing I did was make a base running map, totally forgetting about cold starting the engine. I got impatient and found out the hard way when I went to try to start her up. So instead of leaning over and trying to figure out how to make a warm up map, fuel prime map, etc. Not only that, but I had no clue if I would be putting in too much or too little fuel. So I saved that part of the tuning for a rainy day. Instead, I repeatedly pumped my throttle while cranking it (yep, like a carb engine ) and let my acceleration enrichment/throttle pump maps do the work for me. When it started to sputter a little I continued to pump for a little more til it gave more of a chug, then find a happy spot in the throttle til it started. I also had to keep my foot on the throttle so it would not die until it warmed up a little.
Good thing though, I tuned a cold start map the next day and saved my compulsive stomping of the throttle for something more like forest fires .
Check your plugs and see if they are getting wet or fouled. If after a long cranking session without starting, they should at least seem damp. When I say damp, enough to give a light glaze reflection of light and not a river flowing out of the thing when you tip it. If not, then I say you are not spraying enough fuel to bring the ice princess to life. Mine became damp after I installed my C2DI ignition box and forgot to plug it in. I was cranking for about 10 seconds give or take. Pulled the plug to find out I wasn't getting spark and gave myself a tap on the back of the head when I saw the connector hanging there asking to be plugged in. Plugged it in and you know the rest.
I was not fortunate to have a working base map with my ECU when I first bought it. I started from scratch. The first thing I did was make a base running map, totally forgetting about cold starting the engine. I got impatient and found out the hard way when I went to try to start her up. So instead of leaning over and trying to figure out how to make a warm up map, fuel prime map, etc. Not only that, but I had no clue if I would be putting in too much or too little fuel. So I saved that part of the tuning for a rainy day. Instead, I repeatedly pumped my throttle while cranking it (yep, like a carb engine ) and let my acceleration enrichment/throttle pump maps do the work for me. When it started to sputter a little I continued to pump for a little more til it gave more of a chug, then find a happy spot in the throttle til it started. I also had to keep my foot on the throttle so it would not die until it warmed up a little.
Good thing though, I tuned a cold start map the next day and saved my compulsive stomping of the throttle for something more like forest fires .
Re: (ItzGenX)
Ya I thought it seemed a little low to me. But yea there is a little fuel on them but not as much as I would have thought after cranking it multiple times. So I will check on that.
Also someone mentioned my base timing might be off so I will play with the CAS a bit and see if that helps. Thanks for the reply.
Also someone mentioned my base timing might be off so I will play with the CAS a bit and see if that helps. Thanks for the reply.
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ItzGenX
- Posts: 1204
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Re: (gomer23)
For base timing, I pulled all the plugs and hooked up a timing light. Pulling the plugs increases cranking RPM and eases strain on the starter. Had a friend inside crank it while I set the timing to where the ecu was supposedly at (20BTDC) or as close as I could with this method. It is the best way to have a 'close' match to where that cas should be. After it starts up, then you can fine adjust it to where it will stay for the rest of it's life.
Re: (ItzGenX)
I'm going to start messing with that tonight and we'll see what happens.
As far as the FC goes, I am wondering if I have the boost controller shut off correctly. I went into the ECT menu and turned it off but when I got to sensor check its still registering a voltage in there. I thought it was supposed to show ----?
As far as the FC goes, I am wondering if I have the boost controller shut off correctly. I went into the ECT menu and turned it off but when I got to sensor check its still registering a voltage in there. I thought it was supposed to show ----?