No Start - No Current

[oldmako]

99 Q with a new batt.

Went to start the old gal up for the second time today (first was successfull - early this morn OAT about 40F) and it died just as I rotated the key to start. Initially everything elec was normal....steering wheel moving, lights etc....then bzzt. The car has always started quickly and had adequate voltage available at the starter as evidenced by the speed of the starter.

I'm not at home, but I do have some tools with me, and I do have a copy of the FSM on this laptop. I also have access to wheels to go fetch parts.

It appears that there's a fusible link of some sort on the POS batt post. The sight window shows that the link "looks" good although I have never seen one of these before and my knowledge is thus limited. It looks as though it pulls out of it's holder much like a standard fuse. I suspect that this may be the culprit, as I have NO electrical current at all.

Any one care to toss out some relative gouge so I can get this resolved and back on the highway?

And if it does happen to be the link, can anyone shed any light as to why this mother let go and what I ought to check to prevent it from happening again?

Many thanks in advance for usable, constructive info.

[goody90q45]

You're getting power to the inside of the car but the starter is clicking? New battery? Check both battery connections. They need to be tight and you shouldn't be able to rotate either clamp. I also had trouble with the pair of wires which are part of the positive clamp that attaches to the battery post. Both of these need to be secure also. On my 94 a new aftermarket clamp solved the problem. Good luck.

[oldmako]

Perhaps I wasn't clear. There is (was) NO power available.

I say 'was' because I just got in from starting the car.

I messed around with the 120V link at the batt and it seemed to make no difference. Again, the view thru the sight window showed and intact link. Can that fuse simplly be pulled up and out of the holder? It looks as though the cutouts on its side are exactly finger sized for that purpose.

I then pulled the cover off the large fuse box next to the battery and was looking things over. The two starting links looked fine. However while I was looking and probing, I heard an electrical noise from inside the car. I believe it was the steering wheel motor responding to current and it's (incorrect) position.

I got in the car, it had current and it started immediately.

This leaves me to believe that I have some questionable connections within that box. Before I get all Smokey with it, do the larger 80 amp fuses simply pull out with a gentle tug with some needle nose or is there something more sinister and expensive going on?

My inclination is to 1) Buy and carry a bunch of spares and2) Disconnect GND strap and remove and clean the connectors (of all the links and fuses) within that box. Little CRC or similar and some dielectric grease.

Now for the hypothetical....I'm bombing down the pike at a sprightly pace and this phantom electrical gremlin reoccurs without warning. Do I careen off the highway and die?Am I smokin' crack or on the right track? With no current, no engine, steering, and minimal brakes. Potentially a painful and expensive event.

In other words, this does not give me a warm fuzzy and I'd like to get it rectified lickity-split.

[qsiguy]

It's probably one of the battery terminal connections. I would pull them and clean thoroughly, check the connections at the fusible link/fuse you are talking about. Best bet would have been to leave it and get a test light or multimeter and figure out where the power stopped so you'd know exactly what was stopping the power from reaching the system. I would make sure you have a meter/test light with you at all times and if it happens again start at the battery and follow the power til you find the problem component.

Yes, if that "gremlin" comes calling while you are driving you may loose all power so be prepared to man handle the steering and brakes.

[bullittandy]

It's probably one of the battery terminal connections. I would pull them and clean thoroughly, check the connections at the fusible link/fuse you are talking about. Best bet would have been to leave it and get a test light or multimeter and figure out where the power stopped so you'd know exactly what was stopping the power from reaching the system. I would make sure you have a meter/test light with you at all times and if it happens again start at the battery and follow the power til you find the problem component.

Yes, if that "gremlin" comes calling while you are driving you may loose all power so be prepared to man handle the steering and brakes.

X2, I've been moving batteries around between the cars that I'm working on and have gotten out of the habit lately of tightening the battery terminal. It has regularly worked fine with a small electrical load but if I try to start it, turn on the lights etc, the whole connection/car goes dead.

The other clue is that the battery is new which means that you just messed with the terminals-its always something simple.

[oldmako]

The batt was replaced by the previous owner just a few months ago, so it's possible that there's sig corrosion inside the clamp. I'll pull it and clean it.

Thanks to all who posted!! This something I need to track down and fix.

[RAP]

The batt was replaced by the previous owner just a few months ago, so it's possible that there's sig corrosion inside the clamp. I'll pull it and clean it.

Thanks to all who posted!! This something I need to track down and fix.

I really thing that you are in a conversational mood ? ? ? Nothing wrong with that and you come across as a funny guy, but really...

Standard procedure for all non starts, is to start by checking out the battery.

Therein usually resides the problem. Mechanics make good money on this. Tow truckers also.

Jack

[oldmako]

Well what I was fishin for was information about the fusible link setup, and the POS connector at the BAT. I've never owned a car with this set up. Just trying to glean some intel so I don't overlook the NOT so obvious.

That and the fact that I'm not at home left me a bit squeezed. I thought that perhaps I could gain some insight through posting, since working on the car in the snow, in a suit, in a parking lot, leaves a lot to be desired.

I hang out on several forums, this one sure has an interesting learning curve.

[Q451990]

Ditto on the battery cable. Had the exact same symptom on one of my Q's with a loose connection.

Heath

[RAP]

Well what I was fishin for was information about the fusible link setup, and the POS connector at the BAT. I've never owned a car with this set up. Just trying to glean some intel so I don't overlook the NOT so obvious.

That and the fact that I'm not at home left me a bit squeezed. I thought that perhaps I could gain some insight through posting, since working on the car in the snow, in a suit, in a parking lot, leaves a lot to be desired.

I hang out on several forums, this one sure has an interesting learning curve.

I searched in my brand new, 2000 Q45 FSM "paper edition" and the fusible link. Well that link and wire is your source of power for the entire car. The large cable goes to the battery direct and provides power for starting only.

The link is fused at 120 amps. I have other Nissan cars and they also have that system so I suppose it's Nissan's way of getting POWER TO THE PEOPLE!!!

Jack