No Spark!

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Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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alright, i am having trouble getting spark out of my coil. i have a blaster 2 coil.i have the green and black wire to negative, and i have the red and black to positive. everytime i crank the motor over and check to see if there is spark coming out of the coil i get nothing.

i have all of the original wires hooked up to the stock coil except the two pos. and neg. coil wires.

I also have another question as to what the other wires going to the stock coil actually do. there is a green and black, a solid black, and a white wire, that plug into the stock coil, and then there is a slide on plug that plugs into the stock coil by itself. what are these all for? do i need them?

My last question is that i noticed there is some type of relay that the green and black, and red and black coil wires split off from.. 4 wires are connected to the relay, a thin orange and red, a thin solid black, and then a thick green and black, and a thick red and black. what does this relay do?

THIS IS A LINK TO SHOW HOW MY WIRING IS CURRENTLY SETUP TO THE T, PLEASE HELP I NEED TO FIX!!

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic...=x402

thanks alot guys

-tim


Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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i was also checking my wires with a test light and found something very odd.i put the aligator clip on a good ground and then stuck the needle to the negative terminal of the coil while the wires were hooked up, and the light came on which means that there is 6-12 volts going to it.

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chad_KAT
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:56 pm
Car: 98 Red S14

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let me get this right. Are you taking the secondary wire of the coil and checking for spark? if so you could be frying solid state components.

a relay controlls high current with low current.

from what your picture shows... are you using the stock and blaster 2 coil together?????
Modified by chad_KAT at 11:04 AM 4/27/2006

Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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the wire that goes from the coil to the dizzy, take it out of the dizzy, and put a screw driver in it, lay it near some steel and try to watch it spark, is what i was doing. is that bad, i never thought it was, kinda like taking a spark plug out while its on the boot and seeing if it sparks.i think it might be a screwed up ground or something im not real sure, i just wanted everyone to verify my wiring for sure.

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chad_KAT
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:56 pm
Car: 98 Red S14

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check the resistance of your coil with a ohm meter or any DMM. the primary side should be about .5-2.0 ohms and the secondary should be like 6k-30k ohms.
Modified by chad_KAT at 6:53 PM 4/27/2006

Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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im not sure what you mean by primary and secondary, but i was just working on it today, and tried to check the ecu for any codes, and i found out that i couldnt check the codes, the red light would not come on.and another thing i found was that when i turn my key in the on position the fuel doesnt pressurize the lines, however when i blip the ignition a little bit i can hear it turn on.

sooooo i tried my buddies ecu (mine is an enthalpy tuned) and his worked fine, i found i had a code 21, which im sure has something to do with the coil not firing, and also the fuel pump pressurized when i had the key in the on position. WTF?

i definitely need some input from anyone anybody that has had maybe even a little bit of the problems i am having please give me some input!

-tim

Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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chad_KAT wrote:from what your picture shows... are you using the stock and blaster 2 coil together?????Modified by chad_KAT at 11:04 AM 4/27/2006
yes i am, i didnt think i was just not supposed to use the 3 wire plug so i just left it on there.

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chad_KAT
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:56 pm
Car: 98 Red S14

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welp sounds like you fryed your ecu... but i could be wrong. But taking the secondary wire off the coil and checking for spark is the 100% WRONG way to check for spark at the coil you basicly let 50,000 Volts fly around in your engine bay which will kill solid state components...Code 21 is a ignition code. get a wiring diagram and see if you can figure out how to properly wire it up..


Modified by chad_KAT at 11:35 PM 4/30/2006

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chad_KAT
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:56 pm
Car: 98 Red S14

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Tims_240 wrote:i was also checking my wires with a test light and found something very odd.i put the aligator clip on a good ground and then stuck the needle to the negative terminal of the coil while the wires were hooked up, and the light came on which means that there is 6-12 volts going to it.
Dont use a test light they dont tell you exact voltage... get a DMM and check the voltage at + and - of the coil you should see a voltage drop of about 12V. Seeing power on - is normal. sorry i dont own a 240 nor have any wiring diagrams. i have a datsun 510 kat.... take some pictures if you can and we will go from there.

Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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i got a multimeter today and the voltage is the exact same on the positive and negative side.i really hope i didnt fry my ecu because it was $550 from enthalpy that would suck real bad.how would i know for absolute sure if my ecu was hit or not? the injectors still pulse fine and all of my gauge cluster **** works, all of my lights work also.

-tim

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chad_KAT
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:56 pm
Car: 98 Red S14

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Try hooking you ecu up in a friends car. do you remeber what your voltages where?

Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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well man, im not sure why, maybe i was doing it wrong each time, but i finally got the ecu light to blink i got codes 21(igntion primary) and 12(mafs).so i am extremely happy that i didnt fry my ecu.today i took a multi meter and hooked one side up to a ground and the other to the positive side of the coil, and i got a reading of ~12.07 and the negative side was also 12.07.then i switched it to ohms and the readings were also the same.im not sure what that means i suck with electrical things like that. but if you could inform me that would be nice.-timps thanks for the help so far man.

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chad_KAT
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:56 pm
Car: 98 Red S14

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12v on + and gound is good... if you are checking coil resistance to see if its good you need to isolate the coil( dissconnect all the wires) and then take your reading. follow this drawing



Green and red lines are your Multi meter wires. This is how you check primary and secondary Resistance. This will tell you if your coil is good or bad.Primary should be 0.7-2.0 Ohms secondary should be 4.5K - 4.8K Ohms

If any of these numbers are wacky or it is OFL( out of feild limits) then you have a bad coil.

~Chad

p.s do both + and - readings on the secondary wiring of the coil and tell me what you get

Modified by chad_KAT at 11:30 PM 4/30/2006
Modified by chad_KAT at 11:32 PM 4/30/2006

Tims_240
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:48 pm

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the blaster coil i got2.3 volts and 4.22k ohmsthe stock coil i got2.3 volts and 12.3k ohms

-tim


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