No Spark, SR20DET Blackto pon 1989 240sx SE

[drkidd22]

Hi peeps, I have a 1989 240sx and just put in a blacktop sr20det. all the wiring has been rechecked and checkted 1000 times and I have changed the Igniter as well and still can't get it to work, how can I test the igniter, I found a way how to do it in the FSM, anyone has tried another way?. If I put a test light to the Igniter output from the ECU (the Igniter Module input) should I see the light flash about every 1.5secs while cranking? Also I noticed that the ECCS relay was not triggering and the ECU was not getting power, It seems that the ECU was not grounding the ECCS relay coil. If I jump the relay and send the ECU power would this be ok? Any help is greatly appreciated. What are all the components that work together to at least get a spark, MAF, Crank Sence, knock sence? I also tested the start signal going to the ECU from the ignition switch and it works fine. What else should I do?
Modified by drkidd22 at 7:39 PM 6/2/2007

[drkidd22]

So no one in the nicoclub forum replied, so I took my own steps and this is what I found.

A bunch of wires burned together

This was me fixing the mess and putting the harness in place in the bay.

And after a few hours of grease on my hands this is what my final product looks like.

Should look alot better with some tie wraps or something to hold them in place.

[redtop91]

No one replied because your thread title was illegible. Good to see you found the problem though.

[drkidd22]

o I kept playing around with wiring diagrams and all that good stuff, also got new spark plugs. What I noticed strange was that the Ignition Coil Hardness In the bay has Ground(-) going to (E) on all the coils (which should be an intput pulse from the ignitor I think) and (-) on the coils going to the Ignitor which caused 12V from terminal 2 on the coils being returned to the transistor. Correct me if Im wrong please, I never played with car wiring but have basic knowledge in electronics. This is what I think it should be like. (-) on the ignition coils should be grounded, (+) on the ignition coils should have ~12V and terminal (E) on the coil should be receiving the individual pulse signal from the Ignitor.

[drkidd22]

anyone please

[kingdutka]

From my brief conversation with a guy at HeavyThrottle.com, you are absolutely correct.

(-) is ground(+) is 12v+(E) is pulses from Ignitor (I previously stated ECU here)
Modified by kingdutka at 9:37 AM 6/6/2007

[drkidd22]

Im not getting any spark from the spark plugs yet but the engine cranks over,fuel pump is working, ECU is getting power and also getting the ignition signal on the orange wire whenthe key is turned over to start. What I'm curious about is that there is a Black/White stripe wire going to the starter and it always has 12V, even with the ignition key off. Shouldn't this wire only have 12V when the switch is turned over to start? I think it might also be touching ground, cuzthe starter makes a weird sound some times. When I tried to test the black and white wire on the ignition switch with a test light and switch in the off position the light went on for 1/2 a sec and then it blew the starting fuse (30A) in the front, clusterlights turned off as well. One more question, the Coils have three terminal, + - and e. shouldn't e be going to the ignitor to get the pulse? - going to engine ground and white to switched 12V? I tested the ignitor chip and it's good, so thats out of the way.

[kingdutka]

Edited my post just above yours.

With the new information you have given, I can now say I really don't know what is going on. Something sounds like it is not wired properly to me. I am not even close to being what I call "good" with cars, but I am quite good with electronics. Given that, I think you need someone else to help you out here. Note that I never give advice unless I am almost 100% sure of something (which still doesn't make me right, just sure of myself). :P

[drkidd22]

Well I'm going to get to the bottom of it, I'm no quiter, and like they say, if you want it done right, do it yourself. I'll take the whole freaking thing apart and wire it my own way. and i'll get that biatch running.

[drkidd22]

I have checked all the wiring, from top to bottom and can't find nothing, everything ohms good for continuity. Coil Packs still getting hot with the Ignition in the ON position, wires get all the way hot to the ignition switch, tested all those wires from switch to front and none are shorted, I think the problem is with the coil packs still, the 12V line that goes to the coil's pin2 will ony get warm when the coils are plugged in. I don't know if the coil's are supposed to return the 12V from pin2 to ground pin1 (coils might be shorted inside???) which then causes the short to ground, Took the coil hardness apart and found nothing wrong with it.

[drkidd22]

So from the CoilHardes 12V on Pin2 on all four plugs and gound on Pin1 get hot, including the coils when plugged in. Also the ignition wires on the ignition switch get real hot, almost burned my hands (this all happens with ignition switch in on position and coil packs in ONLY). This as I been saying only happens when I plug a coil pack in the coil hardness, none of the wires mentioned avobe get hot when a coil is not plugged in but just the bare coil hardess, and yes, I strpped the coil harness apart and didn't find any shorts, and yres the ground is bolted down on back of the engine. This is a new install by the way.

[kingdutka]

Keep going. I am having trouble getting spark too. I don't think we have the same problem, but it sounds VERY similar. I haven't checked to see if my wires get hot, but I will. I'll let you know if I get mine working and would love to hear if you get yours too. Good luck to us both!

[blacksrjdm]

Had similar problem w/ 89 hatch with redtop. Check the harness to the fuse box under the egi relays. My harness got hot and fried a bunch of grounds back to the ecu and maf. The car wouldn't get fuel because there was no spark. Turns out the maf was shorted and needed to replace all the wire from fuse box under hood to ecu then to maf and seems to be ok. But without that the cam sensor wasn't reading correctly and no spark no fuel. Sorry to hear about your ride man, real shame..