Okay so i have a pretty awkward issue. I own a 93 240sx with SR20det, AEM series 2 ECU, Battery is relocated to rear, Fuel pump is a walbro direct to battery via relay. I ordered some new injectors which my car is already tuned for. After putting in the injectors my car was puffing white smoke and idling horribly. I took the injectors out and put in the original Denso 550cc injectors i had and it did the same thing, Then the car cut off and wouldn't start. The plugs for the injectors were pretty beat up so i ordered new one and soldered them on. Plugged up the injectors and now nothing at all. When i turn the key i get all light on the dash but when i turn the key i get no crank at all. I checked the battery and also charged it over night just in case. i used a multimeter to check for voltage. I'm getting spark and voltage to everything but no voltage to injectors at all. i've checked before and after the break in the wire that i soldered together and nothing on both ends. I'm also not getting any prime from the fuel pump when turning the key but there is voltage there.I redid the wiring for the fuel also to make sure with all new wires and a new relay with no luck. i've checked all fuses and relays in box under hood and on driver floor board, also checked all my grounds. When i turned the key the lights don't dim at all or flash in any way. Im 100% stuck. Can anyone help me? Please!!!!!!!!!

New injectors hks-sard-denso-550cc-injectors-side-fee ... 38750.html

The old one were discontinued and couldn't find anywhere else.

if you need more information just ask.

Thank you in advance for all of your help.

UPDATE!
The Fuel pump primes if i supply direct power. Fuel pump is good.

Likely the ECU is not being turned on which is why your fuel pump isn't priming. The injectors are on the same circuit that supplies the ECCS relay. Make sure your fuses are fine. Make sure the ECCS relay is turning on (or getting power).

Ken@PTUNING wrote:Likely the ECU is not being turned on which is why your fuel pump isn't priming. The injectors are on the same circuit that supplies the ECCS relay. Make sure your fuses are fine. Make sure the ECCS relay is turning on (or getting power).

Thank you very much for your help.i'll check all my relays and check power to them and let you know the results.

Ken@PTUNING wrote:Likely the ECU is not being turned on which is why your fuel pump isn't priming. The injectors are on the same circuit that supplies the ECCS relay. Make sure your fuses are fine. Make sure the ECCS relay is turning on (or getting power).

Okay so i'm now at least getting power to the injectors and the pump is priming when i'm trying to crank the car, I just need to replace my fuel injector O rings, and get the battery charged up to test everything out. I'll be doing everything tomorrow, and let you know if i finally get it started. Thanks again, I'm finally a step forward in all this.

Okay so now i have new O rings for my injectors, charged up the battery. Now the weird thing is i can only hear the fuel pump priming if im attempting to turn the car over not when i key just sits in the on position which i don't think is normal and then on top of that when i attempt to start the car i just a click and all of the light on the dash, radio and inside light die so now i think i have a ground issue. (((((((

The lights normally dim when there is a strong draw on the battery. Make sure you're using the largest power wire you can to the battery and that the connection up front is clean and secure. Make sure the battery's ground wire is also fairly large, secure, and connected to a good ground location. Try jumping the car from the front with the positive clamp on the positive wire and the negative on the engine (intake manifold for example). If starting is better, your battery power wire may be too small for the draw.

the Positive battery wire is a Zero gauge wire, i'll try jumping it from the front like you stated and see if that makes a difference.i'll be doing that possibly late afternoon tomorrow. I'll let you know the results then, and another quick question i noticed your name is and was wondering if you are really a tuner?

Oniiscythe wrote:the Positive battery wire is a Zero gauge wire, i'll try jumping it from the front like you stated and see if that makes a difference.i'll be doing that possibly late afternoon tomorrow. I'll let you know the results then, and another quick question i noticed your name is and was wondering if you are really a tuner?

I work at Performance Tuning, Inc. We normally go by the name PTUNING. I am the assistant dyno operator as well as a service adviser and tech when needed. I personally tuned my own S13 on a Megasquirt MS3X (KA24DET, GT2860RS) and have dabbled with AEM, Haltech, Hondata, and Nistune. I'm also familiar with UpRev, EcuTek, Cobb, and HP Tuners.

Okay, so i checked the voltage of the power wire all the way to the front of the car and i'm getting nearly 13 volts all the way to the starter. I tried jumping the car from the battery, from the power wires in the front and even tried jumping the starter to see for the starter at least works and i got nothing but a single click when turning the key, all the lights in the car dead and when i let go of the key everything comes back on.

UPDATE!

I took the start out and had it tested at my location autozone and The starter worked intermittently. Some time the gear would kick out but not spin, then sometime it would spin but not kick out and sometimes it did nothing at all and over all when it did work it sounded like s***, So I ordered a new starter but i still have a feeling that this isn't the culprit. I'm going to go through again and checking all my grounds. Do you have any advise for me when checking or a different way of checking, or any advise for me from here overall? Thanks again for all your help.

Keep it simple. Swap in the new starter and try and start the car. Voltage may measure fine from end to end with no load but will drop considerably during a large power draw. We've been working on a 2JZGTE swapped IS300 at the shop and during cranking, voltage will drop from 12.5V to 10.5V. If the starter was bad, it very well could've still been a huge current draw when commanded to crank. A starter that isn't seizing up will likely have a lower power draw.

Okay so I went ahead and ordered a new starter it should be here on by Saturday, I'm also going to take the battery in and have it tested to make sure it's good. I also found a bad ground cable so I installed another one hopefully with the new starter she will have life once again

I just got my new starter today, i'll be putting it in tomorrow evening to test. I'll get back to you with the results.

Okay so the new starter is in . It now tries to crank but still not turning over.

I took the fuel rail off to check the injectors. Had someone try to crank the car while I checked for fuel spray and I got nothing. Check the injectors for voltage and got nothing at all from the plugs. Switched the eccs relay again and still nothing

So i finally got fed up with all of the researching and not finding answers that kept leading to dead ends. no offensive to anyone who has helped me in the process you've all been a great help. I towed my 240 up to Jack at Horsepowerlogic and within a little over an hours of diagnosing, they found that my boost solenoid had went bad and blow the circuit and it just happened to be on the same circuit as my injectors. I recommend Jack to anyone to the South florida area. Amazing work! Hopefully this forum will help someone in the future.