No Power to Ignition coil relay

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
CaleJDMZ32
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2011 8:29 am
Car: 1990 Fairlady Z
RHD 5 Speed 2+2 TT

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Hey guys, here is a problem that has stumped me for the last week or so, I've managed to figure out EXACTLY what the problem is except I'm unsure of where I should start my search first to fix this problem completely.
It all started when I was driving home from work, all of a sudden I hear a pop and my car dies. I get her towed home and the next day I start to diagnose the problem, from what I was able to come up with from a little bit of online research and talking with a mechanic buddy the PTU was the first item to check, now since I had a series 1 I decided to just upgrade to the S2 with sub-harness to just avoid any issue all together.
PTU replaced all wires wrapped and neatly put away into its new location under the hood and all connections cleaned full of dielectrc grease, still no start.
So I checked my ecu codes, 21 and 11, so the CAS was pulled out and tested to be working 100% but I was still getting no spark, Tested the PTU it checked out all fine.
Finally I made my way over to the ignition coil relay, tested the relay with a 12v and "click" its working, with the key to "ON" I checked for 12v to each one of the terminals 1,2,3,5 as marked on the relay, 3-5 being the switch and 1-2 being the relay actuator. Well #1 was the only terminal not getting power.
With the relay in the car when I tested for 12v at the coil packs I had no power and no ground voltages, with the relay removed and the switch 3-5 bridged I had 12v on the center and ground terminals and the car started up and purred like nothing was wrong.
So my question is where is the best or most likely places to start my search for a break in this circuit where I'm not getting power to the #1 pin on the ignition coil relay?
Also how safe is it for me to drive the Z with the ignition coil switch bridged? I ask this because I basically need to get it from my apartment to the garage where I will be storing it for the next few months the trip is about a 40 min drive.
My only thoughts on having it bridged is the constant drain to my battery so if I'm doing any sort of stop and starts for a couple periods at a time, just simply remove the bridged wire as to not have the drain on the battery.
I appreciate anyones imput on this matter! Thanks for reading!


nrandy
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:43 pm
Car: Z32 1990 300ZX TT

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Hi,
Was just reading about your problem and have exactly the same problem with my Z32, bridged pins 3 & 5 together and started up straight away.
I was wondering if you had had any luck with finding the source of your problem that i may get another heads up on??

Cheers,

Nick

CaleJDMZ32
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2011 8:29 am
Car: 1990 Fairlady Z
RHD 5 Speed 2+2 TT

Post

Unfortunately I havent had a chance to do anything yet as my car is outside and its been far too cold to dig into it yet but I will keep you updated if I can figure anything, its definitely not the relay because I have tried several different ones and the same thing happens. As soon as it warms up Im going to tear the fuse box right out and start checking, cleaning and greasing up everything with die electric grease, so hopefully I can track it down.
A tip also for you, make sure you take the jumper wire out if you leave the car parked for a while because it will drain your battery faster, not to mention the constant power to your coils cant be good :/

User avatar
Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Man, wiring posts are the hardest to troubleshoot. I'd look in the EL section of the FSM, and trace the wires associated. See where they go. Make sure they're all putting the voltage/ continuity that they're supposed to.

CaleJDMZ32
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2011 8:29 am
Car: 1990 Fairlady Z
RHD 5 Speed 2+2 TT

Post

yeah Its not going to be fun to find haha but on the bright side its narrowed down to just the side of the relay that activates the coil. Gotta get in with a volt meter and test around with the key on, hopefully its just a bad ground.

nrandy
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:43 pm
Car: Z32 1990 300ZX TT

Post

Yep, thanks for the tip.
I was reading up on another problem that someone had with "no power to ignition coils" and he goes onto say that "if power is found at the ignition coils then its not your ECU" his problem was a ground problem with one of the 2 x ground wires at the back of the manifold, as his problem was a ground fault he didnt elaborate on if there was no power at the coils. As my car has had no work done before the problem (but alot of rain) i may wrongly assumme at the moment that its not a continuity problem and focus on the ECU as that is near the passenger floor which may have got wet.
I will let you know how this goes over the comming days...

Cheers.

nrandy
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:43 pm
Car: Z32 1990 300ZX TT

Post

Hi Guys,

The problem has been fixed now. I took it to an Auto Electrician. The problem was a broken earth on or near the ECU.

Hope this helps save someone else some time like it did me.

Cheers,

Nrandy

CaleJDMZ32
Posts: 41
Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2011 8:29 am
Car: 1990 Fairlady Z
RHD 5 Speed 2+2 TT

Post

Do you know where a bouts it was specifically? in the engine bay still? or inside the cabin right down around the ECU?


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