NO POWER

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
patrick_benfica
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx Twin turbo

Post

I recently purchased a 300zx twin turbo. But the previous person f*** up the timing on the car and blew the motor. I purchased a new motor and swapped it in. After doing the swap i couldn't get power to anything. The battery fuse keeps blowing. i cant figure out the problem, i have all the grounds connected. it also has an aftermarket alarm running separate power.

anyone have any ideas what it can be ?

Thanks for you time,
Patrick


nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

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If the battery fuse keeps blowing, usually means something is grounded that shouldn't be grounded. Its not easy finding electrical problems. A multi-meter and patience is your friend for this. Just start tracing back wires, start with the battery fuse wire.

patrick_benfica
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx Twin turbo

Post

weird thing is that before the motor was put in i had power to ignition and everything. But after putting in the motor it started giving me this problem.

i was reading online and a faulty alternator can also give this problem

Xplisit
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: '94 Z32 2+2 N/A, '90 Z32 2+2 N/A->TT
Location: Missouri, USA

Post

Alternator is a very long shot (not likely).

nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

Post

Something is not connected properly. Check the the wiring that hooks into the alt, that could sway you to the problem. I would honestly disconnect the alternator, make sure the connections are not touching anything, then try and turn on the car. Just start disconnecting one thing at a time till it goes away. If it still does it after all is disconnected, problem in the wiring. Keep the battery connected, otherwise you wont find it.

Is it the original wiring? What kind of condition is the wiring in? How is the relay? Try disconnecting that first.

patrick_benfica
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx Twin turbo

Post

thanks for all your help. I found the problem it had to do with the alternator. I unplugged it and the fuse wasnt popping anymore.

patrick_benfica
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx Twin turbo

Post

it sucks after figuring out one problem i get another problem. Motor turns over, but it doesnt want to start. :nono: :nono:

nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

Post

Check the ECU for codes, this would be the best place to start. Could be something very easy, like fuel lines crossed. Make sure your getting fuel and spark.

patrick_benfica
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx Twin turbo

Post

thanks all i found the problem there wasnt any fuel so i retraced it to the main fuse. running rough, but that because of all the vaccum lines. Should be out and driving it soon enough cant wait :biggrin:

patrick_benfica
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300zx Twin turbo

Post

i heard about removing egr and aiv, if i just leave those lines unplug would it harm and make it a rough idle or should i put caps on the ends of those hoses ? im planning on going with a straight pipe

User avatar
PAintballa45
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 2009 1:37 pm
Car: 1991 300zx n/a (TT in progress : D) slicktop
Location: Boston MA

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removing the egr with the motor in is a royal pita but it can be done by pulling the upper plenum. If your running stock manifolds you have to cap the exhaust port and upper intake with plates from a delete kit (about $30, z1 sells it along with most websites). AIV's are usless, rip all that garbage out (solenoids are in the fenders behind the front wheels). youll have to cap it before the cats if running stock pipes. You also have to cap all the vacuum lines where those systems were previously. Leaving the plugs unconnected will not throw any codes or effect the idle / performance

edit: do a power balance test (disconnect each coil pack 1 by 1. If you hear a drop in idle, the cylinder is working properly, if not, you have found the reason for running rough). very simple diagnostic test.


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