no power steering 1991 tt(yes i searched)

[contor]

I removed and reinstalled the engine/trans on a 1991 tt. the vehicle had p/s before the engine removal, and now that it is reinstalled I have no p/s (p/s lines were replaced during removal). it also seems to get heavier with speed increase, and the hicas feels like it is working. im assuming its the solenoid or the speed sensor, just seems strange it suddenly stopped.
I have the service manual but it doesn't describe the bleeding procedure very well, and I just wanted to check im doing it properly, before I start measuring voltages at connectors.

the known:
- vehicle has proper fluid in the system
-all connectors are hooked up as far as I know (connector at pump?)
-no hicas light
-getting fluid to rear rack with bleeders open and key on.
-no fluid out of top bleeder
-pump makes a slight chirp on right turns(about 1/8th turn)

any info would be great. thanks in advance.

[ZL8NING]

Right fluid being transmission oil, yes?

[contor]

correct. dexron.

also forgot to mention while attempting to bleed the system, when I reach lock it will force fluid back out of the reservoir.

[amiry36]

I know that you mentioned you have checked all the connectors. But check the speed sensor connector on the rack driver side. If unhooked, it causes a very stiff steering

[contor]

both connectors at the rack are connected.

[contor]

bumpity bump

[ThisIsSparTTa]

FYI if it was a problem with your speed signal you would have power steering for about a minute after start, then it would cut out. Had that problem last year.

Not sure otherwise. Silly question, you did reconnect the PS belt right? Was the pump good before the rebuild? You're not leaking ATF anywhere?

[kingofkarma]

Hey I just started having a similar issue my power steering will work fine and then began to fade or not work at all followed by my HICAS light coming on. I can turn off my car and start it back up and everything is fine with no light on for a lil bit and then the issue reoccurs . I have checked the power steering fluid and it is fine. Im guessing sensor maybe? ThisIsSparTTa what was your solution?

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Here's how the HICAS system works.

You have an analog speed sensor on the transmission. That goes through some connectors up to your speedometer. Your speedometer changes it into a digital TTL signal and then sends that onto the ECU and HICAS unit.

If your speedometer isn't working properly, you definitely will not be sending the correct signal and it will fail.

However, you can also still fail if there is a bad connection between the speedo and the control units.

My particular problem was that having my Consult to USB adapter connector was killing that speed signal reading for some reason. It would always read 0 in software, and it would enter fail-safe after a minute and disable PS and turn on HICAS. Removing the adapter, the problem went away.

FSM will tell you the other conditions, like low pressure, etc that will cause it to fail. It will also tell you mostly how to test those signal paths. Unfortunately at the HICAS controller, you can really only plug in to the speed sensor pin and make sure it is toggling between ~0 and 5V when you rotate the wheel (not steering wheel).

If yours works then stops, then the HICAS controller thinks there is something wrong with your system, whether its the speed signal or something else.

[contor]

yup. new belt is installed. the p/s system was working normally before removal. I replaced a leaky line (which emptied the reservoir) and now the system will not work. I have NO hicas light, and it feels as if the four wheel steer is still working (heavier wheel with speed, and the car seems to 're-settle' mid turn).

whats throwing me off is, if I have the cap on or off, then turn lock to lock, it will force fluid OUT of the reservoir. if I open the bleeder and turn lock to lock the same thing happens. also the pump started to 'gurgle' after going full lock and about half way back it will make a sound.

also fluid level does not change after driving, and I AM getting fluid to the rear rack.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

I've heard about air pockets in the system. Try searching for ways to burp your system. I'm not sure where you're bleeding your PS lines at though. Wasn't aware that you could do that.

[contor]

I tried the classic through the cap. didn't work. tried some research and saw to try jacking up the front of the vehicle then go lock to lock, also no luck. but there is a bleeder on the fender well right next to the reservoir. I saw nothing in the book about it, but it runs to the p/s. just nothing comes out when it is opened.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Uhh, that's the extra bleeder for the clutch, not the power steering line. You probably need to back and bleed your clutch now. Bleed the top first, and then the clutch slave. Use brake fluid DOT3 or DOT4.

[contor]

hmm weird spot for that. haha. the clutch was never depressed or anything while it was open. but ill double check.

[contor]

bump

[contor]

found the issue. one of the new hoses I installed internally collapsed.

thanks for the help guys

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Thanks for posting a solution. This helps a lot in the future. Which hose was it?