So I start a tread but now I can't find it.
My 1989 240SX KA24e has no power till I get to 3500 or higher, I just rebuilt the engine. I took the engine completely apart and replaced the piston rings and head gasket and all related seals.
So some replies to this that my engine is 180DEG out and he or she is correct so I set my engine to TDC and remove the valve arm bolts to relieve the pressure on the valve springs. Then I turn the cams 180 and tighten. Then I manual turn the engine three full revolutions to make sure nothing hits.
But the car will not start, I read that you have to have some dots and divots lined up on the oil pump/distributor drive gear or this could through your timing of? But when I am TDC the rotor is facing NUM 4; which is were every manual I have read said it should be.
Help!!!
no power below 3500
lol.. it needs to be at TDC at the compression stroke.. i was troubled with this for a while..
what you can do is pull out spark plug on cylinder number 1and put a piece of wet paper towel there. spin the engine with a torque wrench, when the little towel/ball pops out, youre on the compression stroke. set it to TDC then.now note where your distributor is pointing to, it should be pointing to cylinder number 1,if not then take out your oil pump and reset it according to the manual (and if you have the pic from the manual plz post it up many ppl will thank you) and then reinsert the distributor
should work
what confuses many people including me is that your engine can be at TDC, but still 180 off, because its not on the compression stroke, and thats because the crank spins twice for every time the cylinder fires
what you can do is pull out spark plug on cylinder number 1and put a piece of wet paper towel there. spin the engine with a torque wrench, when the little towel/ball pops out, youre on the compression stroke. set it to TDC then.now note where your distributor is pointing to, it should be pointing to cylinder number 1,if not then take out your oil pump and reset it according to the manual (and if you have the pic from the manual plz post it up many ppl will thank you) and then reinsert the distributor
should work
what confuses many people including me is that your engine can be at TDC, but still 180 off, because its not on the compression stroke, and thats because the crank spins twice for every time the cylinder fires
Re: no power below 3500 (rudy543us)
To recheck your cam timing, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. Remove the timing cover. Now look at the bottom part of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the cam sprocket gear mark which is at the 3 o'clock position.
Here's how to time the distributor:Remove the distributor and the oil pump. Now you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put your thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO. The oil pump uses a shaft to turn the distributor. Insert this shaft onto the oil pump with the punch mark on the shaft lining up with the hole on the oil pump (below gear). Install pump/shaft to block. When installed the end of the shaft will look like a "D", when looking into the distributor hole while standing at the drivers side front wheel well. Actually, it (the "D") will be more of a "11:45" position, NOT quite "12:00"; if not, then remove, and reinstall until the above position is obtained.
Determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.
Here's how to time the distributor:Remove the distributor and the oil pump. Now you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put your thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO. The oil pump uses a shaft to turn the distributor. Insert this shaft onto the oil pump with the punch mark on the shaft lining up with the hole on the oil pump (below gear). Install pump/shaft to block. When installed the end of the shaft will look like a "D", when looking into the distributor hole while standing at the drivers side front wheel well. Actually, it (the "D") will be more of a "11:45" position, NOT quite "12:00"; if not, then remove, and reinstall until the above position is obtained.
Determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.
Re: (Emc-Icon)
Thank you for all the input, I had the timing correct as far as valves and pistons go, my problem is my drive gear "oil pump" was not correct. So for a qiuck fix I changed the wire location so 1 is 4 and so on, She runs like a champ now. This weekend I will fix it .
FYI I have made a few mods to my 1989 240SX "KA24e" such as:MAS from a 4.6L Mustang, APEXI AFC II SAFC AIR FUEL CONTROLLERCoil oversElectric fanPower door locks
Modified by rudy543us at 3:16 AM 10/19/2006
FYI I have made a few mods to my 1989 240SX "KA24e" such as:MAS from a 4.6L Mustang, APEXI AFC II SAFC AIR FUEL CONTROLLERCoil oversElectric fanPower door locks
Modified by rudy543us at 3:16 AM 10/19/2006