duffman1278 wrote:Don't use synthetic oil for turbo'd motors. They don't like it.
That is the single most absurd thing I've heard in a while (all week and all month don't really apply to a Monday that's the 2nd of the month -_-). You should be using primarily synthetics because of their greater resistance to thermal breakdown over conventional dino oil. Turbos tend to destroy oil pretty quick since the oil is the primary cooler running over the CHRA shaft.
And before you say "It's water cooled!", the water cooling keeps the temp down so the oil doesn't take the entire heat load with it. The water never comes in contact with the wheel shaft, so it can only bleed off some of the heat while the oil does the primary cooling.
Conventional oil will break down quickly running it through a turbo. Back in the old days before water cooled turbos and neat synthetics, 1,000 mile or less oil changes were common on turbo cars. In this day and age, you'd be hard pressedto find someone who would recommend using conventional oil over synthetic oil in turbo cars.
myother45isalesbaer wrote:Is there any pressure or zero pressure? Zero could mean the pump is not spinning at all. They used to be driven by a shaft off the distributor. In my case that shaft broke. I know this is really dated and old school, but maybe it will help. Not sure how they are driving the oil pumps today. It has to be attached to some internal engine componet to spin. Maybe that is where is problem lies and not in the pump itself.
If the imput shaft is busted, then the motor won't work because it is directly driven off the crankshaft. The nose of the crank passes through the pump and it directly spins the inner the gear.
WONit wrote:Yea, i know i am not getting any pressure. i removed the stock sensor and used the hole to run my oil pressure gauge. there isnt even enough pressure to get the oil all the way up the tubing. I am thinking oil pump,but the oil pump is supposed to be good. checked and cleaned pick up tube also.
And you're absolutely positive there's no kinks in the line?
I've seen pumps that are just slightly out of spec build enough pressure to keep the dummy light off, but still not lubricate the bearings. The last time I saw this, the guy ran around for a week or two and finally spun a bearing even though the idiot light never screamed at him. The culprit was a slightly machined pump gear. The shop that built his motor machined the gear to get rid of some damage and ended up killing the tolerances. To properly check the pump for functionality, you'd need to test it with feeler guages to make sure it isn't out of spec. I can post up the spec data for you if you want. But from the sounds of it, your pump is probably your most likely culprit.