I have a 1996 240sx (KA24DE) 5spd 82000 miles.
Minimal mods, in fact...only one. A Cold Air Indcution kit.
This was my brothers car before I got it. He did not maintain the car adequately and the last oil change before I got it was a 12,000 mile change. I drained all of about 1.5 - 2qts of nasty grimy black oil out of it. Not to mention the fact that he insisted on using 0w-30 Mobil 1. I like to use 20w-50 Mobil 1.
The only engine work I have done was removing the two broken timing chain guides, (not tensioner) from the engine as per dealer recommendation.
The other day, I started the car and almost immediately it began to rattle. The oil pressure light came on and I shut it down.
I doubt the oil pump is actually bad, but given the service history....who knows?
The crankcase is currently full of diesel fuel in the hopes that if there is a blockage of the pick up screen, it will be dissolved over the course of the next 2 weeks.
I'm wondering if anyone has had oil pump failure on the KA24DE or experienced a similar loss of oil pressure.
I don't race this engine, I'm saving the racing for the RB25DET. Probably the fastest it's ever turned was 5500rpm....if that high.
If anyone can give me advice or ideas about what could be causing the problem, please reply.
:help
-Texsilvia
No oil pressure = dead engine....cause?
-
Nismo_Freak
- Posts: 10314
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
I ended up modifying an oil filter to accept an air fitting, then used pressurized air to blow whatever it was clogging my oil pickup out of the way.
Basically, you could do it with a small air tank.
Take an oil filter (new if you don't want a mess) and a threaded air fitting, like what is on your rims.
Drill a hole down through the top of the oil filter, slightly smaller than the threads on the air fitting. Use a generous amount of RTV sealant and thread the fitting into the hole you just made.
Measure twice, drill once. If necessary, drill the hole much smaller than the threads and then file the hole to accept the air fittings threads.
Turn the filter over, take a smaller drill bit, and drill holes in the anti-backflow valve, the rubber diaphragm under the small holes in the filter. This will allow air to flow into the pump and thru the pickup.
After your RTV has dried and cured (24hrs) remove your oil oil filter and do one of two things. Either you can direct all the airflow into the oil pump by placing a 1/2 cork stopper in the return nipple, or you can pressurize the entire system. Be very very careful not to direct the entire tank pressure in to the system. Most tanks store 120psi, about 3 times higher than typical oil pressure. I'm not sure what this would do, if anything, to an oil system, but why be the first to find out.
Attach the air hose from the tank to the fitting on the oil filter. Use minimal pressure and increase it slowly until you hear a gurgling sound in your oil pan. Anything that had been stuck to your oil pickup or in your pickup tube will have been blown out.
This worked for me.
You could also pressurize a tank of solvent and blow the solvent through the system, or use a water hose fitting and flush the system with water.
Be warned however if you try it with water. You will have to drain as much oil from the system as possible and would have to leave the drain plug open. This is messy and probably not the best for your grass or aquifer. So IF YOU USE WATER, either have a place to collect all of the water, OR, make sure you break up the oil slick with a powerful detergent or digesting enzyme.
After removing as much water as possible, put in fresh oil, run the car to operating temperature, preferably with an engine flushing chemicle, and change the oil. You need to let the car warm up after flushing it with water to drive all traces of moisture from the nooks and crannies of the system. Water is heavier than oil and will settle out in the oil pan under the pickup. Next time you start your car, if it's not properly flushed, your car will get an unhealthy dose of water to the bearings and lifter, not good.
Try the air setup first. If you don't feel confident doing that, nissan dealers have a machine which forces a solvent through the sytem in much the same way. The price for the service is around $120.00
-Texsilvia
Basically, you could do it with a small air tank.
Take an oil filter (new if you don't want a mess) and a threaded air fitting, like what is on your rims.
Drill a hole down through the top of the oil filter, slightly smaller than the threads on the air fitting. Use a generous amount of RTV sealant and thread the fitting into the hole you just made.
Measure twice, drill once. If necessary, drill the hole much smaller than the threads and then file the hole to accept the air fittings threads.
Turn the filter over, take a smaller drill bit, and drill holes in the anti-backflow valve, the rubber diaphragm under the small holes in the filter. This will allow air to flow into the pump and thru the pickup.
After your RTV has dried and cured (24hrs) remove your oil oil filter and do one of two things. Either you can direct all the airflow into the oil pump by placing a 1/2 cork stopper in the return nipple, or you can pressurize the entire system. Be very very careful not to direct the entire tank pressure in to the system. Most tanks store 120psi, about 3 times higher than typical oil pressure. I'm not sure what this would do, if anything, to an oil system, but why be the first to find out.
Attach the air hose from the tank to the fitting on the oil filter. Use minimal pressure and increase it slowly until you hear a gurgling sound in your oil pan. Anything that had been stuck to your oil pickup or in your pickup tube will have been blown out.
This worked for me.
You could also pressurize a tank of solvent and blow the solvent through the system, or use a water hose fitting and flush the system with water.
Be warned however if you try it with water. You will have to drain as much oil from the system as possible and would have to leave the drain plug open. This is messy and probably not the best for your grass or aquifer. So IF YOU USE WATER, either have a place to collect all of the water, OR, make sure you break up the oil slick with a powerful detergent or digesting enzyme.
After removing as much water as possible, put in fresh oil, run the car to operating temperature, preferably with an engine flushing chemicle, and change the oil. You need to let the car warm up after flushing it with water to drive all traces of moisture from the nooks and crannies of the system. Water is heavier than oil and will settle out in the oil pan under the pickup. Next time you start your car, if it's not properly flushed, your car will get an unhealthy dose of water to the bearings and lifter, not good.
Try the air setup first. If you don't feel confident doing that, nissan dealers have a machine which forces a solvent through the sytem in much the same way. The price for the service is around $120.00
-Texsilvia
You know, even a 2 liter bottle with a fitting in the bottom would work. If you were careful, and didn't use too much, you could install a basketball needle in the cap and use a regular bike pump to pressureize it.
Put a little engine flush in it, gasoline, or some other type of goop solvent, and force that through it.
Should work ok.
-Texsilvia
Put a little engine flush in it, gasoline, or some other type of goop solvent, and force that through it.
Should work ok.
-Texsilvia
texsilvia wrote:You know, even a 2 liter bottle with a fitting in the bottom would work. If you were careful, and didn't use too much, you could install a basketball needle in the cap and use a regular bike pump to pressureize it.
Put a little engine flush in it, gasoline, or some other type of goop solvent, and force that through it.
Should work ok.
-Texsilvia
i'm gona do it today. that idea is the shiitthanks Tex
Before you go and do all that s*** drop the oil pan you proly have a broken piece from your timing guide that could be clogging up your oil pump. I had my timeing chain on my ka before the sr and everthing that gets replaced with it replaced and a piece of the old timing guide was left to fall down into the oil pan and it clogged up my oil pump and almost messed my ka motor but I caught it in time since it had just been finished and outta the shop that day I new it was something they did.
yeah, i hate droppin pans.but it's easier if you remove the upper motor mount bolts.then jack up the engine.it just sucks that my car is so low that it's a chore to jack it up or get it on ramps..i'm gona try a pressure system today with my air compressor.then drop the pan.or mabey just buy a new damn engine:ylsuper