NO OIL PRESSURE AFTER REBUILD???

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
User avatar
TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post

I had a shop assemble my bottom end of my RB. I REUSED the oil pump because funds were tight and I ended up needing to buy pistons. I cranked my motor with the starter in 10-15 sec intervals several times and saw no oil come out of my turbo oil return line. I was told it may take some time to finally see oil but I don't like the idea of cranking my motor an excessive amount if it's not getting oil pressure. Assembly lube was used but because of wiring issues it has been sitting for 4months or more since I got the motor back and about 2 month ago was the last time I attempted cranking it.

I was wondering if anyone had negative thoughts on me putting an air gun to my crank pulley and turning the motor over that way? I imagine that would make it build pressure much quicker than using my starter...

Thanks for any feedback
Tim


User avatar
allenms240
Posts: 661
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 5:54 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX

Post

Do you know the reason you rebuilt it? Did it have a rod knock or something that was related to oil loss? Maybe it was the oil pump. I don't know though, haven't gotten that far with my build yet but I will stay tuned to see what it was.

Was the oil pump working before the build?

_Allen

User avatar
OutToWinPAHC
Posts: 8810
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 12:19 pm
Car: 2015 Chevy Silverado
Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t
Nissan Skyline R32 GTR
Nissan RB20 E46 RHD
2015 Harley Vrod Muscle
1990 Nissan Patrol
Location: PA
Contact:

Post

ehhh

I would pull the valve covers and soak the top end in oit, and pull the oil feed lined off the turbo and pout some oil in there too and then pull the pugs and spin the motor by hand a good 10 rotations and then retry. You dont want to insta death the turbo, and motor will drip down and coat the crank a bit too.

User avatar
TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post

I rebuilt it because I had 1 motor that was seized and the other never ran correctly. I took a good head off a 25 and used an ok block from another (had it overbored) I can't know forsure that the oilpump is ok but with my luck I bet It is bad. I haven't had any luck with this POS motor. I wish I had just replaced the pump when I rebuilt it but I was ridiculously broke while I had the motor at the shop... I plan to remove the spark plugs and atleast hook a charger to the battery while I crank it this time around. I'd take my valve covers off but removing the TB on my 25 NEO (they're longer because of the TCS) and having to make a gasket for it doesn't interest me at all currently lol I'm not as concerned about the top end as much as my rod bearings and possible lack of lubrication on my cylinder walls and my new piston rings tearing up the cylinder walls

User avatar
OutToWinPAHC
Posts: 8810
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 12:19 pm
Car: 2015 Chevy Silverado
Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t
Nissan Skyline R32 GTR
Nissan RB20 E46 RHD
2015 Harley Vrod Muscle
1990 Nissan Patrol
Location: PA
Contact:

Post

Oil flows up the galley to the head and down the other galley to the pan right over the crank wetting it along the way.

User avatar
kouki munster
Posts: 2195
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 6:13 pm
Car: 97 base 240
Location: Anderson, SC

Post

Pull the oil filter off and stick a funnel with a long neck in the holes and dump some oil in the block, then fill the filter with oil and put it back on then crank it again. Ka, sr, and rb oil pumps don't work to good if they are dry, you have to get some oil in them so they can get enough suction at crank rpm to pull the oil up the pick up tube.

It would also be in your best interest to dump some oil over the valve train.

User avatar
TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post

kouki munster wrote:Pull the oil filter off and stick a funnel with a long neck in the holes and dump some oil in the block, then fill the filter with oil and put it back on then crank it again. Ka, sr, and rb oil pumps don't work to good if they are dry, you have to get some oil in them so they can get enough suction at crank rpm to pull the oil up the pick up tube.

It would also be in your best interest to dump some oil over the valve train.
:banana: Thanks!!! I read u could like pre-fill or pack the oilpump but had no idea what ppl meant. I will do that.
OutToWinPAHC wrote:Oil flows up the galley to the head and down the other galley to the pan right over the crank wetting it along the way.
If I drain my oil and re-fill it the normal way (not removing any cam covers) besides not having fresh oil along the intake cam side (still should have assembly lube tho) will it have the same drain/oiling effect on the crank? I just wanna see oil from the turbo return and I'll feel satisfied to start it. It should pump oil up the the intake side of the head nearly instantly anyways.

User avatar
OutToWinPAHC
Posts: 8810
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 12:19 pm
Car: 2015 Chevy Silverado
Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t
Nissan Skyline R32 GTR
Nissan RB20 E46 RHD
2015 Harley Vrod Muscle
1990 Nissan Patrol
Location: PA
Contact:

Post

That will do the job for the most part. I would remove the turbo feed line and put a 1/2 cap full into the turbo to prelube it before you try restarting it.

User avatar
TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post

OutToWinPAHC wrote:That will do the job for the most part. I would remove the turbo feed line and put a 1/2 cap full into the turbo to prelube it before you try restarting it.
Will do, but if cranking it with a starter/air gun gets oil to go out the return it would have to go thru the inlet so no need to do that unless I just give up on cranking it without starting if I never see oil.

User avatar
1KleenS13
Posts: 233
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:55 pm

Post

Dont use the gun on the crank bolt, you risk breaking the bolt and the gun wont spin the crank that easily.

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

I just rebuilt my CA18DET again and primed the oil system today. Anytime I rebuild the motor and am ready to prime the oil system, this is what I do. PULL ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS!!! This is the most important part. It takes almost all the load off of the engine. It also makes your starter work way less and the engine will turn over faster. Even with all of this, I still had to crank the engine for a total of 30-45 seconds to get the oil light to go out. I don't let it rest at all, as the starter isn't pulling a whole lot of amps because the plugs are out of it. Also, if you stop cranking after you've started, the oil will drain back out and you'll basically be starting over and it will take FOREVER to get the system to prime.

I've done this with at least a dozen motors and never had an issue.

User avatar
TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post

I started my motor for 2 seconds and shut it off, buying an oil pressure gauge when I wake up and hooking it up and a new upper radiator hose so I can start it and let it idle for 20-30 min since it's new. I'll pull the spark plugs and retry cranking it hopefully I see oil. I'll hop on tomorrow if I have any luck and post up

User avatar
TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

Post

Oil Pump checked out, after I pulled the sparkplugs whoooo did it spin freely (light weight flywheel may have helped a bit too) I got oil outta the turbo and got it running :)

Thanks for the replies

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.


Return to “240sx General Discussion”