No idling... just dieing.

[Osad]

Before the flaming begins, I have done my research.

Here's the deal, I've been getting closer and closer to getting my CA running in my S12. The wiring is all good, I have followed everything to a T. I have now replaced the CAS, ignitor, mafs, ECT sensor as well as various sections of a brittle, bad old harness and the ECU. The ecu now shows code 55, no problems that it detects.

The car starts runs for a few seconds then dies. The most ive gotten it to run for is about 20-30 seconds. Ive put 94 octane in her now. I want to time it, but I can';t if its not running at least a bit.

Any thoughts are welcome, and appreciated.

Dan

[Spawn_CA18]

is it running when you giving some gas ? or stops again?

[Osad]

Well, the way that I got it to run for 20-30 seconds was a good position on the CAS (not timed remember) and a tiny bit of fluttering of the throttle. But in general, it doesn't seem to make any difference regarding idle if i throttle or not.

[boost_boy]

If you only got it to run 20-30 seconds, then no wonder your eccs does not trigger trouble codes; it doesn't run long enough to detect one.

Did you turn up the idle via the idle screw?

Are you sure the thing is hooked-up correctly (vacuums, electricals, etc.)?

Screwing around with that crank angle sensor will get you into trouble, so we need to see pictures of your set-up.

What AFM are you using?

And lastly, who set this up for you? Not everyone has the skills to wire these things correctly, I believe that some of your problems could very well be eletrical.

[Osad]

Well, after some more testing, I tested the dropping resistor and it had a bad pin so that one injector wasnt getting a signal. I have replaced it, and it runs without dieing now. But its still very very rough. I also found a ground hiding somewhere and hooked it up. Runs smoother, but still not amazing. It needs to be timed, but I did turn the CAS while it was running and found the best spot and it still dipped in RPM every now and again and wasnt idling perfect.

I did all the wiring. Im using a CA18DET mafs. Everything is hooked up correctly as far as I know.

The ECCS did trigger codes before, I fixed those problems already, cleared it and it shows code 55 now. Its not like I never got codes before.

Any more thoughts and ideas will be greatly appreciated!

Dan

[Spawn_CA18]

i think you gotta check TPS cabling and position of TPS..

[Osad]

Can I find that in the FSM? Im not amazing with some of this stuff, and its first time for other stuff. So a page number or something for the FSM would really help

Thanks for the help thus far!

Dan

[Spawn_CA18]

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor is located "near side " of throttle body . it is black colored match box size sensor with 2 screws.

[Osad]

Thank you, I know what it is and where haha. Looking for info on testing and adjusting, and proper position.

Thanks.

[Spawn_CA18]

CA18 Service Manual (894Page Ver.) Page: 182 / EF&EC-98

[Osad]

Thank you very much

[Osad]

Ok, so this kind of confused me. I was checking out the wiring for the TPS and noticed the TPS itself has 3 pins, but the connector has 2. It seems oem, not like it was ripped out. There is no signs of tampering there or anything. Could this be an issue?

[Spawn_CA18]

i can only find this from my cars pictures. maybe can help a little more.




also you can try to find your position by try-fail way...

[Osad]

Yes yes, it turns. Hrmm, Strange. Going to have to refer to ECCS diagram.

[Osad]

Well, according to the eccs diagram, i am missing a wire on my connector. But the ECU shows no codes for TPS (43 i think). Thoughts?

[Osad]

Wait, I think what I was looking at on my car was the 'idle switch'... hahaha, gotta double check.

[Spawn_CA18]

missing-tps-wire-t331094.html google search showed me this thread i think similar problem .

also another thing i see in DriftWorks forum , one guy says "Set TPS to 0.45-0.50 volts when throttle is shut" . i didn't know this .but i think sure way to find right position

[Osad]

Nonono man. According to the eccs diagram, thats wrong. What you are looking at with the yellow wires is the idle switch, the same thing i confused the tps for. Im looking for the TPS now.

I dont know why, but I thought the TPS was a manual thing, and idle switch auto... but maybe not. Weird.

[Spawn_CA18]

also i found this from my friends e-manage ultimate map file. car works fine with this settings...

[Osad]

So. The car runs and idles really rough.

The TPS seems to check out, as well as the idle switch, which ended up being the same unit. Here is the strangest thing, the motor does NOT rev up when the throttle is played with.

Thoughts?

[Spawn_CA18]

MAF connection and it is health?

do you have AFR gauge ? can you tell us what you see?

[Osad]

The mafs checked out in spec too. I can check it again, and I do have a spare. I dont have an AFR gauge unfortunately. I havent installed any of the gauges yet, because Id really like to get the motor to a good point before I do any other work like that.

So the car idles rough, doesnt respond to throttle input, loud hissing coming from the idle adjustment screw... Thoughts?

[Osad]

Just as a side note, I don't have the knock sensor hooked up, just out of sheer laziness. And the ECU has not thrown me a code for knock sensor. Im fairly confident that it could not be the source of these conditions. But I will hook it up today and double check.

[boost_boy]

So the car idles rough, doesnt respond to throttle input, loud hissing coming from the idle adjustment screw... Thoughts?

Take heed to what I'm about to say to you, STOP revving the engine until you get things under control. It will either run smooth when you crank it or it's going to run rough which tells you that something isn't right. If there is a hissing noise like you said, you should really be hunting-down the source of the hiss. You could have a cracked aac housing or vaccum hose to the aac housing ripped. You really should provide pictures of the intake manifold area or we all are just firing in the dark, so to speak. If you chose not provide pictures, the folks on here with the most experience with this CA engine are not going to be able to assist you further. And since you say you know this and have done that, makes it hard for us to top what you know and have already done. Hopefully you get where I'm going with this as I've asked you to post pics previously for better assistance.

[Osad]

I will take your advice, and agree. Thing is I dont think I was really revving, because all I was doing was opening the TB, but the engine was not revving, this is the main issue. As I pointed out earlier, the hissing is coming 100% from the idle adjustment screw (pictured below). I know this because upon closing it, I got no hissing, and upon opening it I got a lot of hissing. As a side note, the adjustment of this screw had no effect on idle. Neither did the adjustment of the idle switch / TPS (which I have now realized are one and the same unit). Below is a video of the motor running, and its unresponsiveness. I have hooked up the knock sensor and it did help a bit in the car running on its own power and not dieing, but the idle is still just as rough pretty much.

Video:


Photos:






Looking forward to more input.

Dan

[Osad]

I apologize if Im coming off like a douchebag haha, I just try to be concise in what I have already covered and checked so as not to waste the efforts of people here.

[boost_boy]

I apologize if Im coming off like a douchebag haha, I just try to be concise in what I have already covered and checked so as not to waste the efforts of people here.

It's all good and I understand exactly what you'r going through. Patience will win you the prize of long lasting fun with your investment . Impatience will condemn your investment via premature ejaculation (read between the lines) and you will become very frustrated. Now that we've gotten that out of the way, let's get down to helping you. When you do get it run, does it run really rough or smooth? If it runs rough, it's possibly because you don't have the injectors connected properly (the connectors are crossed). Make sure all nipples and orifices that can leak vacuum are plugged. Get me a pic of your CAS position, so that I can help you set this as close as possible to where it needs to be. I truly do believe your injectors plugs are crossed.

[Osad]

Im going to try that right now. My CAS is not set in any final position though, since I havent tried to actually time it. Ive just been putting it where it seems to run best.

Also, I guess it could only be cylinder 3 and 4 that could be crossed, it seems like the front 2 are too far apart for me to have gotten them wrong...

Also, Im not so sure if it could be the plugs mixed up, because there have been times when I just start it up and it runs really smooth for a few seconds, then it starts being rough again.

[roast]

Take more pictures, let's see the vacumm nipples at the back of the intake manifold, please, do not send me pic's of your actuall nipples...

I can't come over and help, I'm in Florida this week and then back to being extremely busy until Mide June... Hopefully I can work on my car then... or yours if it isn't running.

[Osad]

Well. Thank you all! I really appreciate the thought and help you all put in. The problems lay mainly in a grave mistake made by the shop that did my intercooler piping. Other issues were faulty dropping resistor and not much else. I will not outline the mistake or the shopname out of sheer decency, but I am quite dissappointed. I try to do everything myself, or with the help of friends I trust.

Dan