constant heat in 88-turbo

[RustspecS13]

I'm picking up a Z31 turbo from a friend of mine satuday, and the one pressing issue is the heat doesn't work.

I have no idea why, and I can trouble shoot it when i get it.

It doesn't have the digital dash, or anything like that. I'm looking for what can fail either under dash or underhood.

Heres a teaser: I cant wait to pick it up!!



~Alex

[Ace2cool]

Check the heater core hoses in the back of the engine. Two hoses going from the block to the firewall.

If those are looped, that's why you have no heat. Most likely when that is the issue, there was a heater core leak, so someone bypassed it. Heater core replacement is a long and tedious process that involves removing the dash in most cases.

If the hoses are still routed through the firewall, then your heater core is most likely blocked or has some sort of obstruction in the hoses.

[evildky]

it could be even simpler, if the coolant is lo or leaking air can get trapped inthe heater core and you get no heat, fill and purge the systemand you might have heat, usually is it's a vac or dashpot issue it give heat hen you don't ant it so lack fo heat is generally much simpler

[RustspecS13]

I talked to my friend a little about it and he said he messed with something and got heat for a second or a low level of heat. So it sounds like its more under dash controls then anything.

And I know about nissans awesome heatcore placement/problems. I use it in my 240 as a gauge to make sure I dont have any small leaks.

I'm already planning on getting a 9:1 maxima motor and nistune for it. And probably a small ex housing hx35. I swear thats it...

Do I need to make my own 3in turbo back exhaust? I did a quick look on ebay and didnt see anything. I almost prefer that any way, I should be able to do some labor trading for it.

~Alex

[evildky]

certified muffler makes turbo back kits for stock turbo's, not sure if they 3" in stailesss or aluminized, of course the hx has a unique outlet so you'll have to adapt it

[RustspecS13]

Ah I just found that on redz31. $500-800 for a turbo back? Naw I'll get some piping and make my own. Not the first time. Wont be the last either.

PS I'm thinking of competing in the challenge with this car, just for fun. I unfortunately haven't been yet.

~Alex

[evildky]

the first 2 years I ran my Z31 at the challange I had basically 3" pipe from the turbo to a turndown beside the diff, I finally got tired of listenign to it and bought the cm cat back

[RustspecS13]

So after driving it around some, its the opposite of what my friend said. It has full heat all the time, through the defroster.

I'll look around for the FSM now, but does the dash need a vacuum source? It looked like it had some vacuum acuators when I took a quick look under the dash, but I donno.

It has the early motor swapped in with the later trans, and some other nice stuff. But pretty much all the extra stuff doesn't work. The stock boost and oil pressure/temp gauge doesn't work, and it has 3 aftermarket guages. The boost one works ok, but the coolant temp and oil pressure doesn't. I think those just need hooked up from what Ive seen.

So it seems like it was just a quick motor swap to get the car moving. I'm going to start tracing the little stuff down and see where it gets me. Hopefully some one can point me in the right direction for the dash stuff...

~Alex

[evildky]

this is the typical z31 heat issue, there is a vac line that should go through the firewall near the battery, it goes to the dashppots ont he trans tunnel next to the drivers right foot, these dashpots are also known to rot and cause this problem, I had an 85 that the actuator simply stuck when I hooked up the vac pump to tet them they broke free and started working

is this car a factory turbo car? check the 4th digit of the vin, it should be a "C" if not it wasn't factory turbo, might explain some fo the issues

the oil pressure sender wire often gets disconnected it's just above and to the right of the oil filter, the temp sender is in the intake manifold under the plenum I can't recall which side off hand but it's in there, it might simply have not got connected in the swap

[RustspecS13]

Its a factory turbo car I know that. It has the 88 turbo trans, and has an 84 turbo motor ecu etc.



Those are the gauges I hooked up. The factory oil pressure/temp and stock boost gauge don't work. The aftermarket ones just had a couple cuts in the wires. Fixed those and they work.

It has the pathfinder intake manifold swap, and the 84 engine swap. Theres tonns of stuff thats not hooked up. I just have to find them all and see what I can still use.

Do you know where any pics are for the vac line that runs to the dash? I have an idea where to look but specifics would be awesome. Thanks for the help so far.

~Alex

[gmac708]

Alex
No heat..latent heat...lost heat??? You are totally F*%king up the ozone layer with this rusting hulk and need to get rid of it. Central Ohio is depending on YOU! to make the right decision NOW! For a small fee...I will take this car...and the R200 w/CLSD diff and axles...and dispose of it before you destroy what is left of mankind.
Please make the right choice and try to preserve this planet for your children.
Gord

[RustspecS13]

Well your contributing more to the destruction of the ozone layer by providing a garage to build and fix countless modified cars. So I think you should just give up now. I'll take betzy and give her a nice home and fuel efficient tune so i can motor in peace and know I'm not contributing too much to the problem.

But seriously I'm getting the parts together for the subframe swap and then its all yours.

I found the vacuum line to the interior, its of course not hooked up. I'm guessing I need to find a vacuum only source for it? Time to go sort that out, and my newly non working radio.

~Alex

[bonestock240sx]

did you fix your heating problem?