I have checked every sensor feeding info to the control unit, I have checked all relays, and i mean i removed them checked them to make sure they click, open close the connection and continuity and voltage, can they still have all these and be bad? if the coil is bad will that prevent the fuel pump from coming on when you turn the key to the on position? So if 'I could at least get the fuel pump to come on and build pressure when the key is in the on position that would be awesome, but since it doesn't along with no injector pulse, doesn't that mean its probably the same thing? is it a relay? The car has a new fuel pump from the previous owner trying to resolve this issue. Thanks.

AFM, if the afm is stuck open or deal it won't tell the ecu to turn n the fuel pump

and this assumes you've checked all your fuses and fusible links, the 78 wiring is kinda funky, lots of fueible links

Yes! lots of fusible links. I checked the air flow meter, and the flap operates nicely, very smooth. Thanks for responding to my post, I'm really hoping to get this resolved, if you can think of anything else please let me know.

you'll have to forgive me, I have more experience with the system used on the turbo's which is similar but different, they are all denso's version of the bosch L jetronic fuel injection system but they did evolve and change a bit over the years

step1 would be to verify the spark, simple enough, plug wire and a screwdriver while someone cranks to see if you are getting spark, this is step #1 because if there is no spark then there is likely an issue with the distributor of the ignition control unit, could also be as simple as voltage to coil, remember this needs to be hot while cranking

if you have spark, (and I assume when you say you tested the relays you mean you checked the efi relay as well as both fuel pump relays) verify power and ground at the fuel pump (if both are present you have a bad fuel pump), gound should be constant the power is switched but the fuel pump relay

you said you tested the relays, did you test for voltage at the relay sockets? each relay should have a constant hot

No fuel pump
No injectors
good AFM
good Fusable links

Try a new ECU

I did put in a new ecu, i've all ready sent it back and got my refund. I did find that the fuel pump connection was broken at the disconnect on the inside firewall, the fuel pump now runs and the car will start but only for a second then dies, I don't think that the injectors are firing, theres fuel pressure in the lines and into the injectors, i checked each one.

you think the injectors are nto firing? why not test to be sure? it's hard to diagnose problems when you guess at the symptoms

I have fuel, fuel pressure, spark, and air. I didn't have injector pulse before, but i haven't tested for it since i fixed the fuel pump connection, thats why i used the word "think," sorry, I used a noid light into the 1and 4 injector wires per the manual. I removed and tested the dropping resistors aswell. After I test for injector pulse again, the next thing will be to remove each injector and clean them out, iv'e been given a few suggestions on how to do this, but if anyone has a proven method themselves i would like to hear them.Thanks.

it's highly unlikely that all your injectors dies or clogged at once

first verify spark pulse

if there is pulse, fuel and spark then I would suspect a mechanical issue, has anyone been monkeying with the motor?

it did sit for a year because the PO couldn't find out why it wouldn't start, could the fuel have gelled in each injector? No because why will it start up and then die. it starts up like it's ready to rev and roar then just.....dies????? repeatedly.

you never said it was firing up, you said you suspeced lack of fuel, if there were a lack of fuel it wouldn't fire up

ok, so no, the car carnks, fires then stalls, that right?

have you verified that fuel pressure remains constant when it dies?

have you pulled a plug to see if it's fuel fouled?

idle air adjustment? I cant recall how it's regulated on the 78 but if in doubt crack the tb

There is constant fuel pressure, Yeah i did say it is firing up 6 posts back. So it starts, then dies when the key is moved back to the on position after turning to the start position, is there a resistor that could be bad or relay for the ignition when the key comes back to on after starting? thanks.

I checked out the coil and the distributor as well.

so you turn the key the car fires you let off the key and it dies immediately, that right?

still a lof of possible issues, with the key in the on position, do you have power to the ecu? fuel pump? coil?

have you checked allt he fusible links? (those plastic caps on the passanger side inner finderwell cover fusible links)(78 might have had some behind that metal box up on the strut tower as well, been a while since I looked at a 78)

if memory serves, there is a fuel injection relay, fuel injector relay, a main relay, and a fuel pump relay have you checked them all? have you verified source and signal at each?

so I went through all the relays, pulled em and tested continuity, open close and voltage, still the same problem, How can i test hte ignition unit

yes, I have power to the ecu, fuel pump, and coil, the car turns over and starts normally, then dies after STARTING.

let me clarify, when you let off the key and the car dies, do you have voltage to the ecu, coil and fuel pump?

well, everything is still on except the engine, for sure the fuel pump because it will come on after for a moment to pressurize the system. the coil will flash the test light while starting but dies when the engine dies. i don't know about the ecu. i can only assume that it has voltage because i can restart the car right after it dies. can the ecu still recieve input from all the sending units, fire the engine, have everything else running after it dies and not have voltage?

ok, so we have no coil voltage with the key in the run position? always or only after it stalls?