No check engine light, no link, no crank,

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
11scotthair11
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:39 pm
Car: 2005 Xterra 4Wd

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Can someone please help me troubleshoot my problem? I have an 05' Xterra with 172,000 miles on it. I had a timing chain skip, and decided to do a full timing chain replacement with new chains, sprockets, guides, and tensioners, etc. The repair itself was routine, and was completed without incident. After reassembling and ready to start, I have no check engine light, with they key in any position, "no link" with the ecm when I try to pull codes, and no crank whatsoever. Just a single click from the area of the in- cabin fuse box on the passenger side. Battery is almost new, and charged to 12.85 volts via my multimeter. All accessories functioning EXCEPT windshield wipers, turn signals, power windows. Did find a blown dtrl fuse. Will NOT perform IPDM self test. No power to several fuses; fr fog lamps, injectors 02 sensors, reverse lamps, ABS ECU, A/T ECU, fuel pump. I do have verified good power and ground to the IPDM. Any thoughts?


sky5031
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 8:14 pm
Car: 200sx ,240sx, 300zx ,altima, frontier

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Hi , I own two of these xterra's 2005 and 2007, I went something like what you are going through due to fuse link at the battery.
weather he battery ate link or short kill it will never know,,It caused the the system to : no start with the key in either acc, or start,
or left in the run mode. this all happened after i changed the timing chain set out. (not a big deal changed it twice on the 2005 , also 4.0l) you need to look at the fuse link connection at the battery, if there is any doubt if your getting power to that line you can pin probe down the wire a ways to see if you do (light bulb tester works well for this than a meter) if all of those wires check out check
the black square fuse box (ATTACHED TO BATTERY TERMINAL) again but the power fuse will be a large amp rated for the number of loads .
There is a 140amp and a 100amp in series that supplies power to all of those controls that your not gettin power to, I suggest going to the manual section of nicoclub and download for the make and model xterra section "pg" that covers the electrical. any question email me here, sky5031

sky5031
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 8:14 pm
Car: 200sx ,240sx, 300zx ,altima, frontier

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If you use the light tester probe and touch one side of the fuse and it lights you have power to that terminal, if you probe the other side of the same fuse and you have no light it bad. sky5031

11scotthair11
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:39 pm
Car: 2005 Xterra 4Wd

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Thanks sky5031! I did light probe the two outside cables coming off the battery fuse assembly, and they tested good. I didn't test the larger center line because it is inside corrugated tubing. I am going to disassemble the entire assembly and look for trouble. Another problem I just found tonight: I have always been able to crank the engine by positive terminal light probing the power wire( large white wire) that goes to the starter solenoid. But now when I do it, it goes to ground, (via light probe) .

sky5031
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 8:14 pm
Car: 200sx ,240sx, 300zx ,altima, frontier

Post

I cant remember if your year has the screw terminal attachment or the terminal attachment for the solenoid, when you probe with the light probe to solenoid terminal and clip on the battery ground (neg) it shouldnt light up , the signal goes through the relay in the
plastic black box on the passenger side. it also goes through the security relay to start.
now to check the starter out you'll have go under the x you can with the key off short (/is yours a 4x4?)
between the large terminal on the motor (this is the battery terminal connection) short between the solenoid terminal and battery
connection to the starter motor it should start to turn over and rotate the starter motor. If it doesnt then starter is bad. Good thing its a 4.0l engine and not a 5.6l . Nissan had bright idea of putting the starter under the intake in the center top of the engine for 5.6l , its aqlmost as bad as chaging plugs on the xterra and haqving to pull the intake..try that shorting ther terminal lead ans see if that will make it rotate. let me know. sky5031

11scotthair11
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:39 pm
Car: 2005 Xterra 4Wd

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Sky5031, thanks sky for the info. I went underneath the X to check it out. Their are posts on both the motor and solenoid where the cables attach. I used a screwdriver to connect both posts, and the engine cranked freely and normally. I will add that the dash security light flashes briefly every couple of seconds with the key in any position. Any ideas why I can't remote start by jumping the solenoid power wire? It goes to ground? I'm going to tear into the battery fuse assembly this afternoon. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again!

sky5031
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 8:14 pm
Car: 200sx ,240sx, 300zx ,altima, frontier

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Believe it on the 2005 x I did have a key sensor ring go bad and had to buy a new one, it made the system think that i had aftermarket key in and tried to start it. This imobilizer on these thing are bad news for a owner it gives you three attemps to start with a key, so if you went to walmart or autozone and had a key made(wasnt programmed to it) and used it to try and start the xterra it will lock the system out and will not allow the starter to function with any position of the ignition and the only way out is call a lock smith or take to the dealer to reset the system. Theres a procedure I want you to try on your xterra that might reset that module.
try this: with the drivers door open and you not in the cab lock the doors with the lock button on the drivers door. Then shut the door,
wait 30 seconds and unlock the door with the key twice but dont open the door, again wait 30 seconds and then open the door. get in the drivers seat and put the key in the ignition and see if it will start. let me know. sky5031

NCSlagle
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2020 8:04 am
Car: 1997 Hardbody, KA24E, 2wd automatic

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Check all grounds.. When testing a circuit at connector or terminal, use the ground of that connector for testing the circuit.. If there is no power at the connector that way, try a known good ground.. If using a light probe, they usually clip to ground and light up at the presence of power, which is extremely helpful but it does not verify the circuit's integrity. A lot of these connectors share a common ground. You may see power but an oxidized ring terminal may be preventing closure of that circuit..
This may not help you at all but I didn't see it mentioned and felt compelled to do so.
Best of luck!


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