i just finished rebuilding and installing my ka24e into my 89 240sx...along with the swap i did an auto to manual swap
at first my main problem was getting the car started w/ the key so i wired up a 60 amp push button to the starter and it starts pretty much every time
now my problem is that when i try to let it idle it drops down to about 800 rpms and gets really choppy...it's actually really choppy anywhere below about 1600 rpms...
i am able to drive the car as long as i keep the rpms around 1600-2000 at the least...while driving though, the acceleration is extremely sluggish...the rpms will go up but the car really doesn't accelerate very well at all and has a hard time going from a dead stop...i have to go to about 3000 rpms when just starting or it will die out
so my questions are...why won't my car idle?why wont it accelerate?
i bought a timing gun but havent used it yet because the instruction manual is quite vague...could someone tell me exactly how to use it on this car or close to it?
also, there is slight smoking from the exhaust manifold after driving(i think it's just from fluids that got on it during the rebuild)...smoke comes from the shift boot(which i believe is a bad seal leaking oil onto the exhaust)...and when the engine dies down, there is a weird sort of sucking sound from the intake like it's trying to keep going but it cant
please help me in any way you can as i really wanna drive this car...thanks and sorry for the long post
no acceleration and bad idle after rebuild
fix your vaccum leak, probably your PCV valve behind the alt or the hose to the valve. thats is why it wont idel or accel properly. Air flow meter is not seeing all the air entering the engine.
Timing light. Red lead to positive battery cable, black lead to neg battery cable, inductive pick up[clamp with a square hole in it] goes around plug wire 1, start car allow to idle, point gun at timing makes on crank pulley squeeze trigger, make flashing light illuminate the marks on the pulley and see which one of those marks the pointer on the timing cover is point at when the light flashes. that is you current timing setting do this with the car warmed up. get the sucking noise[ vaccum leak ] fixed first though or the timing check will be nearly impossible.
Timing light. Red lead to positive battery cable, black lead to neg battery cable, inductive pick up[clamp with a square hole in it] goes around plug wire 1, start car allow to idle, point gun at timing makes on crank pulley squeeze trigger, make flashing light illuminate the marks on the pulley and see which one of those marks the pointer on the timing cover is point at when the light flashes. that is you current timing setting do this with the car warmed up. get the sucking noise[ vaccum leak ] fixed first though or the timing check will be nearly impossible.
If I remember correctly the hose is more like an "L" shape. thats correct it causes it to run way to lean.ca240 wrote:so the hose is shaped kinda like a "U" or somethin?...so the problem is that it's lettin in more air through that little hole and runnin lean right?...sometimes i can hear it suckin in more air or somethin, i think that must be it...thanks NISTECH