Nitrous to spool turbo?? Anyone have some input?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
sci2000tech
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I know I've seen cars that use nitrous activated by an rpm switch/boost solenoid/etc...and after the turbo is already spooled, the nitrous solenoid closes.

Every time I've seen this done, however, the nitrous was sprayed after the turbo in the intake path. I acquired an air filter with a built in 75shot jet and I already have nitrous run for my I/C sprayer with plenty of lines/solenoids laying around, so could it work?

My first thought is spraying ice cold nitrous onto a hot spinning compressor wheel could have bad results.

Also this would just be a dry shot, so would I just tune for it to give it more fuel? Or will the mafs read it and give it more fuel?

It would be nice to be able to cool my intake temps and reduce spool time, but I don't know much about nitrous.

Anyone wanna chime in....







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maryjane
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im about to run a wet 125 shot before the intake manifold to spool the turbo up and as a oh $hit insurance in-case i do start to loose.

i wouldnt run that dry shot in to the filter before the turbo like you your running, run the noz before the t body

Cjmartz2k
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Wait, where's the MAF in that setup? Blow thru?

Anyways, I think it would just drive the MAF bonkers. You should go after the MAF. It's a hot wire sensor, not an 02 sensor. Yes, it'll read more "air" since the cold nitrous is cooling it down, thus giving more fuel, but who could say how much. A MAF table assumes x amount of air (read 02) is going thru it when it requires x amount of resistance. If you change the ratio of 02 in the air to resistance in going thru the hot wire sensor, it's not working as intended. Now if you were MAP, that would be fine.

Cjmartz2k
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**double take. Is that a 26 or 20 with ITB's?

DrifterProdigy85
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Have you ever seen nitrous backfire? With the real hot temps at the turbo it might be possible to preignite and blow your turbo to pieces and catch your car on fire. Its much better to run it in the coldpipe and let the extra combustion from the nitrous to create the exhaust gases needed to spool the turbo faster.

Cjmartz2k
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-71v1qQO8HE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFOhVVPhzhU

*Edit--when is somebody going to update the software on this board. For such a busy site, we have on of the worst forum set ups I have seen in a while. I can't embed vids, I can't PM, I can't multi-qoute, the list goes on. /end rant

sci2000tech
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Cjmartz2k wrote:Wait, where's the MAF in that setup? Blow thru?

Anyways, I think it would just drive the MAF bonkers. You should go after the MAF. It's a hot wire sensor, not an 02 sensor. Yes, it'll read more "air" since the cold nitrous is cooling it down, thus giving more fuel, but who could say how much. A MAF table assumes x amount of air (read 02) is going thru it when it requires x amount of resistance. If you change the ratio of 02 in the air to resistance in going thru the hot wire sensor, it's not working as intended. Now if you were MAP, that would be fine.
It's an rb20 w/itb's.

Yea, its a blow thru, with the MAFS on the coldpipe. That makes perfect sense with the MAFS readings, and was one of the things I was unsure on.

The nitrous backfire creates a huge concern, and was kinda along the lines of possible things that could go wrong going through my head.

As I said, I have never worked with nitrous before, So I was just curious if it was even safe/possible to look into using it like this. Seems as if this filter is setup more for an NA application that doesn't run a MAFS.

If I do ever use nitrous on the engine, I'll just tap individual fuel/nos jets into each runner and let someone who knows what they're doing help me set it up and tune it.

Thanks for the info guys!

Flamereka
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can you show some pics of the itb on rb20. How did you mate it up? custom adapter plate?

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240daveTX
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custom everything. has a thread about it.

look on the first or second page

HowlerMonkey
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The reason for the nitrous is to cause the engine to create more exhaust gases that will then spin up the turbo.

I wouldn't feel safe spraying it against the compressor wheel direct.

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HxC_Nismo
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just get an anti-lag for your car and that will help your turbo spool before you launch at the strip.http://www.rushracingdev.com


robbie2883
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HxC_Nismo wrote:just get an anti-lag for your car and that will help your turbo spool before you launch at the strip.http://www.rushracingdev.com
that will also beat the piss out of the turbo. not good for daily driven turbos!

sci2000tech
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I don't think I'll have trouble spooling this little turbo.

It's off a blitz kit, or so I'm told. KKK K3T 3070MGA. The car is just a fun weekend car that will probably end up making it out to some events. should be a very streetable setup......or the exact opposite and the ITB's will kill power everywhere.....I've been told both, wanna find out for myself.

I just figured since I had all the parts laying around, I'd see if its something safely doable...which I have concluded it probably isn't, lol.

DrifterProdigy85
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Use a wet shot in the intake before the TB or a direct port setup. Im gonna pick up a kit soon for my SR20 w/ 67mm turbo. Without the nitrous it hits full between 5k-5500rpm, if i can get it to hit full closer to 4500rpm that would be well worth it for me. Would make it real responsive for roll racing.

silviasgp06
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Correct me if im wrong but....you cannot have a nitrous backfire on a Dry (nitrous only) system. To the nest of my knowledge you can only have a notrous backfire on a wet system( Nitrous + fuel).

For those who dont know:This is the biggest misconception with power adders.-Nitrous Oxide (Noz,Nos,laughing gas,spray...or whatever anyone calls it) is only an oxidizer..... AND IS NOT FLAMIBLE BY ITSELF.

Cjmartz2k
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True, but it will make things not normally flammable like, o, steal burn

DrifterProdigy85
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Yup your right. I always liked the idea of it spraying fuel with the nitrous to automatically keep it balanced though. Dry systems seem like it would be hard to tune on a turbo car.

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StricNyne
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dry shot is way tooooo dangerous zex makes a kit exactly for what u want to do, in fact i am going to purchase this my self

Darius
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Dry kits aren't necessarily tough to tune, but if you aren't running nitrous the motor will be running pig rich when you get on throttle since it still thinks it is compensating for the nitrous being in the mix. Definitely run a wet kit. Dry kits are for 50 shots on hondas

And how big is your turbo that you need nitrous to help spool it. I have a T04Z that is laggy, but I'm steering clear of nitrous. I'd opt for the rushracing two-step which is not an anti-lag Hans. hahaha It randomly misfires the coils.

DrifterProdigy85
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Its a Garrett T04Z on an SR20DET. I have a 2 step which is enough for the street. Pulls a 1.8 60ft according to my G Tech on the street. There just comes those times when you wanna do a roll from 40mph and its not quite high enough rpm in 2nd to really take off like you need to. Nitrous would solve this problem.

Darius
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I know exactly what you're talking about. Mine is only good for highways and roll-racing. I'm dead in the water from a dig.

robbie2883
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DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Its a Garrett T04Z on an SR20DET. I have a 2 step which is enough for the street. Pulls a 1.8 60ft according to my G Tech on the street. There just comes those times when you wanna do a roll from 40mph and its not quite high enough rpm in 2nd to really take off like you need to. Nitrous would solve this problem.
you should never need nitrous from a roll. learn to break boost!

DrifterProdigy85
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Brake boosting is good if your at an rpm where the turbo can spool good. If im trying to go from 40mph, thats only 4300rpm in 2nd gear. Even brake boosting will only get like 5psi and wont build the rest till closer to 5krpm. You use brake boosting to build the pressure before taking off but you can only do that if your in what i call the "Spool Band".

Sil240
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I don't know if injecting N20 into the turbo vs the ITM really makes a difference,(I have NO knowledge of N20)

The Compressor side shouldn't be too crazy hott.I would assume/guess a max temp of like 250-300 F.

Is that enough temp to ignite it?

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/healt....html

Flashpoint: Non-flammable/Not available

From MSDS:"Nitrous oxide is noncorrosive and may be used with any common structural material. Nitrous oxide oxidizessome metals at elevated temperatures."

"Thermal NOx refers to NOx formed through high temperature oxidation of the diatomic nitrogen found in combustion air. The formation rate is primarily a function of temperature and the residence time of nitrogen at that temperature. At high temperatures, usually above 1600°C (2900°F), molecular nitrogen (N2) and oxygen (O2) in the combustion air disassociate into their atomic states and participate in a series of reactions."

According to what I've found, you should be ok using that.But I would call Zex and ask them.They would know better than all of us.

Also the ITB's should HELP throttle response and power. Theoretically.But since that manifold was designed for a 26 and not a 20, you can't really be sure.

Some people say that the Stock 26 Manifold leans out the 6th Cyl.Nismo and Greddy make different plenum you can switch to.

Cjmartz2k
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DrifterProdigy85 wrote:If im trying to go from 40mph, thats only 4300rpm in 2nd gear. Even brake boosting will only get like 5psi and wont build the rest till closer to 5krpm.
Buy a Holset. Problem solved

Red-rbz
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Keep us update if u ever do it? I'm in the same progress. Rb25dett zex setup in the next couple months.

DrifterProdigy85
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Cjmartz2k wrote:
Buy a Holset. Problem solved
What holset is good to 750+hp with a T3 housing?

jdmser
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I was really happy with my Zex kit on my old setup. It would spool the t3/to4e 50 trim instantly. FWIW the Zex manual does say something about putting the nozzle 6-12" away from the throttle body. That's for a wet kit though.

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HxC_Nismo
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Darius wrote:Dry kits aren't necessarily tough to tune, but if you aren't running nitrous the motor will be running pig rich when you get on throttle since it still thinks it is compensating for the nitrous being in the mix. Definitely run a wet kit. Dry kits are for 50 shots on hondas

And how big is your turbo that you need nitrous to help spool it. I have a T04Z that is laggy, but I'm steering clear of nitrous. I'd opt for the rushracing two-step which is not an anti-lag Hans. hahaha It randomly misfires the coils.
i think your thinking of the gizzmo 2step wich misfires the coils,the rush racing antilag is wired up to pin 52 wich is the crank/cam angle sensor and actually pulls timing.http://www.rushracingdev.com/antilagn.html

and check my vid and tell me thats not an anti laghttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11-Nm_ELsEQ

Cjmartz2k
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DrifterProdigy85 wrote:
What holset is good to 750+hp with a T3 housing?
Depends, are you talking about manufacture advertised "this turbo is good to 750+hp" kind of horsepower, or real horsepower? Are you are saying you have a T3 turbo with 750hp?


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