I am looking for some help to locate the blower resister on a Nissan Sentra 2012. If anyone can help me i would appreciate it.

It's out of sight behind the accelerator pedal. You can reach the connector without removing the pedal, but you can't get on the screws easily working blind, so removing the pedal assembly is best when changing it. See page MTC-80 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FMTC.pdf

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 24, 2022 8:25 am

It's out of sight behind the accelerator pedal. You can reach the connector without removing the pedal, but you can't get on the screws easily working blind, so removing the pedal assembly is best when changing it. See page MTC-80 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FMTC.pdf

I replaced the resister thanks to you but still not getting any cold or heat. I think it's the motor now. Does anyone know where's that located?

It's directly above the VBC, see MTC-31 in the same manual. They're a total b!#ch. The FSM will tell you to remove the dashpad. That isn't necessary, but you need to remove the accelerator and then do some real squirming with a power screwdriver and a prybar to get the motor loose. On Sentras and Gen1 Rogues the metal bracketry on the steering crossmember can get in the way of removing the motor and getting it back in, so have a very large channeloks on hand in case you need to bend brackets and then bend them back. The motor has only one mounting screw but locks in place with a plastic pawl, and you usually won't get enough hand-torque to spin it loose in the contorted position you need to assume under the dash. I use a long canted prybar and a hammer to tap the motor counterclockwise past the pawl, then it can be spun out easily. Reinstalling it usually requires tapping it again clockwise.

Does anyone have any pics of more instructions. I tried to look but can't even see the blower motor?

How much work is it to remove the dash?

The weird thing was before when i set the ac to max the fan would kick in now even stopped doing this. Could it be the relay issue? Anyway go test this.

Yep, there's a Blower Relay. I assumed you had done some diag, but if you haven't, it's time (before you pull your hair out doing a nasty job that might be completely unnecessary). You can find the Blower Relay location on MTC-31, it's on the back of the cabin fusebox. Get a bulb-type test lamp if you don't already own one, you'll be testing a power circuit and the correct tool is a bulb that requires power. The WD for your system's blower circuit is on MTC-34. You can see that the Blower Relay is upstream from the fuses. There are two 15A fuses #10 and #11, both need to be good. With the key on and the test lamp gator on ground, probe both sides of each fuse. If:
1) both sides of both fuses light brightly, then turn the blower on high. If the lights go dim on both sides then the Blower Relay contacts have high resistance and it's causing your issue, replace the Relay. If they stay bright, go to A
2) one side of each fuse lights up, then both of your fuses are blown. The cause of that is virtually always a Blower Motor with dying brushes that's drawing way too much startup current. Bite the bullet and replace it.
3) neither side of either fuse lights up, then most likely the Blower Relay is bad (either the coil is open circuit or the contacts are completely trashed).
A) If you got here then the problem isn't the fuses or relay. Access the VBC connector and put the lamp on Red with it disconnected. You should get a dim light. If so, the Blower brushes are good, go to B. If not, the Blower is trashed.
B) With the VBC disconnected, put a jumper across the connections Red to Black. It will probably spark, don't jump. If the Blower doesn't run or runs weakly, go to D. If the blower does start and run full speed, go to C
C) If you got here then either the VBC isn't getting signal, or the new VBC is defective, or your Blower is sucking so much startup current it's blowing the VBC. This is the only part that will require a voltmeter. Put the red meter probe on the Blue VBC wire and the black meter lead on a good ground, then work the blower speed control. You should see a changing voltage going higher as you increase speed. If the voltage doesn't change, your control head is bad. If it does change then you have to assume the blower is sucking enough juice to blow up the VBC, so replace both
D) With the jumper from B in place, put the test lamp on the jumper. If you got here it will probably light up, which will mean your VBC ground wire (Black) isn't grounding. Find out why

I am looking at the control area. Took them out and see two red wires can you please tell me which to jump?

The jump is the power wires at the VBC connector, not the control head. The only wire you're interested in at the control head is the small Blue wire at the VBC, and you should check it at the VBC first. You only need to check that at the head if you suspect the Blue wire is bad. .

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 28, 2022 12:55 pm

The jump is the power wires at the VBC connector, not the control head. The only wire you're interested in at the control head is the small Blue wire at the VBC, and you should check it at the VBC first. You only need to check that at the head if you suspect the Blue wire is bad. .

I am trying to find where vbc is located?

It's the resistor, what you originally replaced. It isn't actually a resistor on much of anything past 2006, it's a Variable Blower Control (VBC) using a MOSFET transistor.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 28, 2022 3:41 pm

It's the resistor, what you originally replaced. It isn't actually a resistor on much of anything past 2006, it's a Variable Blower Control (VBC) using a MOSFET transistor.

I feel so stupid now. Whatever i did the hair bag light is flashing red on the dash now and won't stop

You probably cycled the key with the yellow indicator for the passenger airbag (PABI) disconnected (and yes, some genius actually decided the SRS should show a malfunction just because the light is out). The blinky should eventually go out by itself after enough SRT's, but if it doesn't there should be a manual reset procedure in the SRS section of the manual.

After all diagnostics i strongly deliver it's the blower motor. Is there any guide out there how to take the dash apart? I don't feel too comfortable taking off the petals.

The accelerator assembly is three nuts and a connector (although you probably need a swivel to get on the top nut). The brake pedal assembly can stay in (although you'll definitely be banging your head on it). Whole lot easier than ripping out the dashpad.

But if you really want to, the exploded drawing and R&I instructions start here on IP-11:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 2%2FIP.pdf