Nissan Rogue (Dealer Suggested Service)

[2010rouge]

Went to Nissan of Burlingame for a brake inspection because they were making a high pitch noise, but first we wanted a full car inspection.

Currently have 56k miles (2010 Nissan Rogue)

Here's the result of the multipoint inspection that requires immediate attention:
L and R Wiper Blade (Replaced in 2013 with Goodyear Assurance)
~~In-Cabin Air Microfilter **$79.88 (Replaced at 14k...whoops)
Coolant **$159.88
Brake Fluid **$149.88
CVT Transmission Fluid **$239.88
~~Engine Air Filter **$49.95
Drive Belt (Serpentine) **$250.00
Rear Shock-Leaking **$502.00
Oil Cooler O Ring-Leaking **$263.00
~~Battery Test-Fail **$155.00 (Never checked the electrolyte levels nor topped off with distilled water)
~~LF/RF Brakes 3mm **$395.00
LR/RR Brakes 6mm **$395.00 (Replaced at 30k)

~~ means resolved

The out the door price was nearly $3000. There was absolutely no way we can afford such services, we brought our car to Firestone and serviced the front brakes, brake fluid and battery. Then headed to O'Reilly Auto Parts and replaced Cabin and Engine air filter at home.

Right now, I'm not too clear what else to repair/service... The prices at the dealership are just ridiculous! I am concerned whether there is in fact a leak somewhere within the car, there isn't a pile of fluid in our garage but the mechanic says otherwise. The serpentine belt has several cracks here and there, but it should be replaced at 60k correct? CVT Fluid...I know there's a 120K warranty on it, do we need to change the fluid every 60k to keep the warranty valid? (I read somewhere that some mechanics perform transmission flush incorrectly and resulting in damaging their whole CVT)

Coolant looks low to me, however we have a bottle of (diluted?) bottle of coolant purchased back in 2010, can we top off the fluid? (Someone explain whether if we need to add distilled water in it?)

What do you guys think? How can I confirm what needs to be replace? How can I check whether a leak is present?
Where/How can I check the transmission fluid? (Please tell me there's a dipstick somewhere)
I have an eBay OBD-II module, anything I can check with it in regards to the repairs?


Went to Wal-Mart for an oil change (Mobil 1 syn with FRAM filter...didn't have bosch), and they recommend us to replace the 3rd rear brake light? Why? All the light bulb lighted up correctly with equal brightness...

[2010rouge]

In addition- Please recommend a repair/service shop around the SF bay area (+/- 50 miles radius) where I can perform the remaining services at 60k [Currently at 58k]

[2010rouge]

UPDATE: Picture of Right Rear Shock (or at least that's what I think it is)
At this point and time, does it require service and is it leaking?

[darylzero]

Went to Nissan of Burlingame for a brake inspection because they were making a high pitch noise, but first we wanted a full car inspection.

Currently have 56k miles (2010 Nissan Rogue)

Here's the result of the multipoint inspection that requires immediate attention:
L and R Wiper Blade (Replaced in 2013 with Goodyear Assurance)
~~In-Cabin Air Microfilter **$79.88 (Replaced at 14k...whoops)
Coolant **$159.88
Brake Fluid **$149.88
CVT Transmission Fluid **$239.88
~~Engine Air Filter **$49.95
Drive Belt (Serpentine) **$250.00
Rear Shock-Leaking **$502.00
Oil Cooler O Ring-Leaking **$263.00
~~Battery Test-Fail **$155.00 (Never checked the electrolyte levels nor topped off with distilled water)
~~LF/RF Brakes 3mm **$395.00
LR/RR Brakes 6mm **$395.00 (Replaced at 30k)

~~ means resolved

The out the door price was nearly $3000. There was absolutely no way we can afford such services, we brought our car to Firestone and serviced the front brakes, brake fluid and battery. Then headed to O'Reilly Auto Parts and replaced Cabin and Engine air filter at home.

Right now, I'm not too clear what else to repair/service... The prices at the dealership are just ridiculous! I am concerned whether there is in fact a leak somewhere within the car, there isn't a pile of fluid in our garage but the mechanic says otherwise. The serpentine belt has several cracks here and there, but it should be replaced at 60k correct? CVT Fluid...I know there's a 120K warranty on it, do we need to change the fluid every 60k to keep the warranty valid? (I read somewhere that some mechanics perform transmission flush incorrectly and resulting in damaging their whole CVT)

Coolant looks low to me, however we have a bottle of (diluted?) bottle of coolant purchased back in 2010, can we top off the fluid? (Someone explain whether if we need to add distilled water in it?)

What do you guys think? How can I confirm what needs to be replace? How can I check whether a leak is present?
Where/How can I check the transmission fluid? (Please tell me there's a dipstick somewhere)
I have an eBay OBD-II module, anything I can check with it in regards to the repairs?


Went to Wal-Mart for an oil change (Mobil 1 syn with FRAM filter...didn't have bosch), and they recommend us to replace the 3rd rear brake light? Why? All the light bulb lighted up correctly with equal brightness...

- Wiper blades you can do yourself

- Coolant - Yours came with long life coolant, which is 80,000 miles I believe

- Brake Fluid - any mechanic can do this for you, probably $80 ( you could also do it yourself with another person helping. Youtube has lots of videos.

- CVT trans fluid - I would at least do a drain and fill, which would replace 4-5 quarts. (search this forum there is a write up on it.) $239.00 is average for dealers for a FLUSH (exchange all fluid).

- Serpentine - you can do yourself. Belt is ~$40. (there is a write up here on how to)

- Rear Shock - I didn’t see anything from your picture, but if you take it to another mechanic to do the brake fluid ask them to check all the shocks.

- Oil Cooler – have another mechanic check it out.

- Brakes any mechanic can do for cheaper.

[js34111]

In regards to your rear shock, the rule of thumb is to replace them when they start to leak. Looking at the picture, if that's fluid from the damper and not from something else that wasn't leaked onto there, then I would replace it. With today's shocks, you can't really tell if they're not dampening until you remove them and actuate them manually with a string load. When one fails, the others take on a heavier load.

If it was me, I'd just buy a reputable brand shock and just replace it myself. I haven't looked at it, but I'm sure the rear shock is easier than the front. Just don't get the cheapest generic shock out there. It'll fail faster than you can install them.

[2010rouge]

I can definitely replace the wiper blade at home. Brought the car to Firestone, and they didn't discover the problems listed by the dealership. I would check the rear shocks again to make sure that is in fact the cause of the leak and not other parts.

http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/823410/00827

Is this a reputable brand shock? Seems to have excellent ratings on the website.
Assuming that one will fit the Rogue, can I have the guys at Pep Boys install it for a charge?

I also went on YouTube and watch the tutorial on serp belt replacement, seems awfully hard when I don't have any tools. Do they service serp belt at Pep Boys?

[js34111]

KYB are a good brand. I'd have to check, but are the rear just a shock absorber or a complete strut with spring and everything. That would be more work to replace the strut.

[2010rouge]

I have absolutely no idea

[88GrapIridium]

Many auto parts stores will change out wiper blades for you if you buy the blades at their store, see their ads/ask. That said some (most?) dealers suggest replacing them without even looking at them. Most of the time they just need a good cleaning with soap and water and sometimes a Scotch-Brite pad and stronger cleaner like Windex. Just wipe the squeegee blade of the wiper with a wet paper towel to see how dirty they are. Turn on the wipers and then when the wiper has swung out all the way turn off the ignition key to stop the wiper so you get convenient access to it from the drivers side. Dealers make more money replacing them than cleaning the squeegee.

The belt is a slightly odd length, I have a Goodyear on mine now which works fine but is a millimeter or two tighter than the Nissan belt (Bando brand? I don't believe Nissan has a belt plant to make their own belts). The Goodyear is still within tolerance by the marks on the tensioner. Point is you may want to make sure a mechanic uses a belt that fits, it may be harder to find than for other cars. RockAuto.com lists Gates and Dayco belts for <$20. Amazon has Bando for just over $16.

Good luck finding a trustworthy reasonable mechanic!

[BrianLWheeler]

Hello, everyone! Brian from Dayco here.

Here is a quick 'How To' video on replacing serpentine belts. In many cases, a serpentine belt tool is needed. Many Dayco distributors have these on-site for customer use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngfdZgb3yUU

Also, similar to this dealership, we do suggest inspecting serpentine belts at roughly 60K miles. Dayco does manufacture an Aramid cord belt for the 2010 Nissan Rogue. This is a new belt we just unveiled in late 2014, and this belt contains an Aramid cord to meet the demands of this specific application, as well as to reduce noise and vibration. You can access belt specs, and the routing guide, in the link below if that will help. Good luck!

http://www.daycoproducts.com/parts?cate ... iption=766

Went to Nissan of Burlingame for a brake inspection because they were making a high pitch noise, but first we wanted a full car inspection.

Currently have 56k miles (2010 Nissan Rogue)

Here's the result of the multipoint inspection that requires immediate attention:
L and R Wiper Blade (Replaced in 2013 with Goodyear Assurance)
~~In-Cabin Air Microfilter **$79.88 (Replaced at 14k...whoops)
Coolant **$159.88
Brake Fluid **$149.88
CVT Transmission Fluid **$239.88
~~Engine Air Filter **$49.95
Drive Belt (Serpentine) **$250.00
Rear Shock-Leaking **$502.00
Oil Cooler O Ring-Leaking **$263.00
~~Battery Test-Fail **$155.00 (Never checked the electrolyte levels nor topped off with distilled water)
~~LF/RF Brakes 3mm **$395.00
LR/RR Brakes 6mm **$395.00 (Replaced at 30k)

~~ means resolved

The out the door price was nearly $3000. There was absolutely no way we can afford such services, we brought our car to Firestone and serviced the front brakes, brake fluid and battery. Then headed to O'Reilly Auto Parts and replaced Cabin and Engine air filter at home.

Right now, I'm not too clear what else to repair/service... The prices at the dealership are just ridiculous! I am concerned whether there is in fact a leak somewhere within the car, there isn't a pile of fluid in our garage but the mechanic says otherwise. The serpentine belt has several cracks here and there, but it should be replaced at 60k correct? CVT Fluid...I know there's a 120K warranty on it, do we need to change the fluid every 60k to keep the warranty valid? (I read somewhere that some mechanics perform transmission flush incorrectly and resulting in damaging their whole CVT)

Coolant looks low to me, however we have a bottle of (diluted?) bottle of coolant purchased back in 2010, can we top off the fluid? (Someone explain whether if we need to add distilled water in it?)

What do you guys think? How can I confirm what needs to be replace? How can I check whether a leak is present?
Where/How can I check the transmission fluid? (Please tell me there's a dipstick somewhere)
I have an eBay OBD-II module, anything I can check with it in regards to the repairs?


Went to Wal-Mart for an oil change (Mobil 1 syn with FRAM filter...didn't have bosch), and they recommend us to replace the 3rd rear brake light? Why? All the light bulb lighted up correctly with equal brightness...

[Rogue Jarhead]

I can definitely replace the wiper blade at home. Brought the car to Firestone, and they didn't discover the problems listed by the dealership. I would check the rear shocks again to make sure that is in fact the cause of the leak and not other parts.

http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/823410/00827

Is this a reputable brand shock? Seems to have excellent ratings on the website.
Assuming that one will fit the Rogue, can I have the guys at Pep Boys install it for a charge?

I also went on YouTube and watch the tutorial on serp belt replacement, seems awfully hard when I don't have any tools. Do they service serp belt at Pep Boys?

KYB is a good brand, however the one you have linked is a front strut. The rears are regular shocks Rockauto.com has KYB's for about $55 each. One bolt on the bottom and one on the top and they will come right out. So if you were to do it yourself it would cost you around $125.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... 444&jpid=2

You should get yourself some tools. Don't bother getting the cheap Chinese crap they just break. Sears craftsman, Lowes Kobalt or something like that. Though Lowes is getting their tools made in Tiawan now. If the tool breaks take it back they will replace it. I prefer Mac but they are expensive and you probably won't be using they 6 times a year.

A good set of metric and sae 3/8 sockets to include a ratchet, a set of metric wrenches 8mm- 18mm, and a set of screwdrivers to start with. Expand your collection as needed. I love getting tools, especially good ones at a good price. I keep watch of eBay for good deals on Mac tools and anything else I think I might need in the way of tools. Christmas I tell my wife what I'm looking for and it's great.

[2010rouge]

Oh gosh, I did not realize those were front shocks. No wonder they look different to me...

As for the mechanics tools, I plan to purchase those during Black Friday sale at Lowes in hopes to score a good deal on them.

This looks quite okay to start out with: http://www.lowes.com/pd_573339-22328-86 ... 00785&pl=1

[darylzero]

Oh gosh, I did not realize those were front shocks. No wonder they look different to me...

As for the mechanics tools, I plan to purchase those during Black Friday sale at Lowes in hopes to score a good deal on them.

This looks quite okay to start out with: http://www.lowes.com/pd_573339-22328-86 ... 00785&pl=1

You would be better off with one of these,

http://www.harborfreight.com/profession ... 45951.html

http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-230-Pie ... B00PHET3OS

[darylzero]

You should get yourself some tools. Don't bother getting the cheap Chinese crap they just break. Sears craftsman, Lowes Kobalt or something like that. Though Lowes is getting their tools made in Tiawan now. If the tool breaks take it back they will replace it. I prefer Mac but they are expensive and you probably won't be using they 6 times a year.

A good set of metric and sae 3/8 sockets to include a ratchet, a set of metric wrenches 8mm- 18mm, and a set of screwdrivers to start with. Expand your collection as needed. I love getting tools, especially good ones at a good price. I keep watch of eBay for good deals on Mac tools and anything else I think I might need in the way of tools. Christmas I tell my wife what I'm looking for and it's great.

Craftsman hand tools are made in China now.

[2010rouge]

Craftsman hand tools are made in China now.

I actually came across one of the review at sears.com claiming exactly that.

"This item is made in China. Compared it against some of my older Craftsman Wrenches made in the USA and fit and finish of this item was not the same level."

[Rogue Jarhead]

Craftsman hand tools are made in China now.

I actually came across one of the review at sears.com claiming exactly that.

"This item is made in China. Compared it against some of my older Craftsman Wrenches made in the USA and fit and finish of this item was not the same level."

Seems to be the way everything is going now. All my craftsman tools are US made but I haven't bought any in years. I think I would go with the Kobalt link or the amazon link darylzero has. That way if a piece breaks and it will you can take it back to sears or lowes and they will replace it.

Once you buy some tools you'll have to use them. Don't tackle everything at first just what youre comfortable with. YouTube is the home mechanics friend. Write ups on sites like this are great also. Watch, read ,evaluate and decide if it's something you think you can do.

A good floor jack and a set of jack stands are absolutely required also. I used to do cinder blocks and wood , that gets old not to mention being unsafe. Jack stands are the way to go, you do not want 3000 lbs of steel on your chest, that makes for difficult breathing.

I bought my first car at 19 in California , when it came time to drive cross country to come home I mentioned having a tune up done at a garage. A friend of mine says , buy these parts ,he gave me a list ,and I'll show you how. I'm at the point now none of my four vehicles have ever been to a dealer or any mechanic for that matter. I take care of two of my daughters cars also. Some people have hobbys like biking, crafting or whatever, I wrench.