I am experiencing the same thing. I have a 2010 Nissan Rouge at 14,000 miles and my rotors warped. I brought it in 2 wks ago and they turned them. Now my vehicle runs worse than my 2001 Altima did. I have it scheduled tomorrow to be looked at again. Any other suggestions?

I have had my Rouge back into the Dealership 4 times in the past two months and I'm still having noise that resulted from them turning the rotors.

lgeetx1 wrote:I have had my Rouge back into the Dealership 4 times in the past two months and I'm still having noise that resulted from them turning the rotors.

Does it make noise when the brales ARE NOT applied? If so, make sure the splash shield behind the rotor isn't rubbing. If you have the factory alloy wheels, you can simply reach through the spokes and push it back.

I had a discussion with my local mechanic and good friend. His take on the brake rotor warp issue?

Brakes rotors are designed to be disposable nowadays. They are not intended to last much longer than the brake pads themselves. As a result, the quality of the rotor castings has decreased dramatically over the years. Issues of warping, premature wear, etc are far more common.

As a result, they don't even bother turning rotors anymore... it's just not cost effective and usually results in rotor thickness less than the mfg's minimum wear limits. If there's an issue, they simply toss the rotor and pads and install new ones. They don't even bother servicing brakes either. It's just cheaper to run them until they wear out and replace them.

That's good to know Philipa. Thanks. Since I originally posted this topic, My dealer has turned my rotors 3 times since then, (I've got 122K km on the car now so that's 60K km more driving since post) I am in the process of getting quotes from various places on getting the front rotors/pads replaced now. Ranging from $440-$580. That's just regular rotors/pads. Not ceramic. (that's taxes/installation)

I did a full brake job on my wife's Rogue about a month ago (including fluid flush, synthetic lube, anti-squeak, etc.). Her car only had 26,000 miles on it and both of the front rotors and one of the rears were out of round. I just replaced all of them with some Centric rotors I bought off TireRack. While I was at it, I changed out the pads with some Hawk Performance Ceramics (again, from TireRack). All up, it set me back about $400. I'm very happy with the results. I'd estimate a 10-15% improvement in braking performance. Seating the brakes was a bit of a roller coaster ride and the full break-in period was about 300 miles. Overall, we're very happy with the results.

It's my understanding that the factory brakes are the same ones used on the Sentra SE-R. If that's the case, with all the added mass of the Rogue, I think they're terribly underrated for this application.

The pads were in great shape, but I went ahead and replaced them anyway. The parking brake shoes looked okay, but will probably need to be swapped out next time I do a brake job.

Also, I agree with the previous poster. It makes more sense to replace the rotors than to machine them. If you can actually find a place that will turn them (I called about 20 shops in Seattle to find a place that would turn them and had no luck), you're only going to squeeze a few more miles out of them before they warp again. Seriously, Nissan could have done better.

I've been doing brakes for about 20 years, and in my experience, here's how I'd rate the products:

Centric Rotors = A
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads = B+
Nissan Rogue factory brakes = D+

Well I finally ordered the new brakes from Tire Rack. I got the Centric Rotors and Hawk Performance Pads as a couple of other people on the forum here have done. It doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling when I'm looking at the invoice and I'm looking at the P/N/'s for the front pads/rotors and when I open the package up, those part numbers are actually the rear rotors/pads and the same for the front rotor/pads, they are actually for the rear.
Could this be a sign?
Anyway, I'm having a buddy install them for me hopefully this week(he is a professional mechanic/classic car restorer) and I'm getting the whole thing done for $600 incl the parts which were $500.
A far cry from the $1100 the dealership quoted me and the $900-$1000 quotes I got from a couple of other places. Craziness.

Reading thru this thread really surprises me as our experience is very different. We have 68K miles on our original brakes. They still have at least 50% pad left (I had both the dealer and a brake shop check them as I couldn't believe the wear I was getting and they both agree). The brakes continue to stop our Rogue short and straight and other than an occasional brake squeek there is no sign of wear. What kind of symptoms do you get with warped rotors?

Cypress_1973 wrote:Well I finally ordered the new brakes from Tire Rack. I got the Centric Rotors and Hawk Performance Pads as a couple of other people on the forum here have done.

I hope these are just the regular Hawk Ceramic formulation. I've used the Hawk HPS Performance Street pads on my Altima and found they were very aggressive. The brakes themselves performed great, but they were incredibly hard on brake rotors.

those part numbers are actually the rear rotors/pads and the same for the front rotor/pads, they are actually for the rear.

Fronts are HB660x.xxxx
Rears are HB600x.xxxx

The rears are like 2/3's the size of the front. Very noticeable.

daytrippr wrote:What kind of symptoms do you get with warped rotors?

Pulsation from the brake pedal, shimmy from the steering wheel, and some grinding/groaning noises.

If you do a lot of highway miles, your brakes live an easy life. It's not uncommon to get more than 60,000mi out of them with zero issues.

Ya Philipa, I just got the regular Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads. Didn't see the need for the performance street pads as 95% of my driving is Hwy.
I had my brakes done last week, and wow...what a difference. Really noticed huge improvement in stopping distance and I find they're actually smoother than the OEM.
Right now, very pleased.

I purchased a 2010 Cert Used Rogue w/23,000 mi in Nov. 2011.
I took it back to the dealer two weeks later with warped rotors. They machined them and I've not had a problem...so far.
I had the same problem with my Maxima that I bought new.
I had the rotors warp 3-4 times in 160,000 miles & I am not hard on brakes.

I have to question the comments about rotors being disposable, etc. A good set of rotors should last through many many pad replacements.
I suspect that the reason a lot of shops don't turn the rotors [or send them out to be turned] is they make more money replacing them.

Helium2 wrote:I have to question the comments about rotors being disposable, etc. A good set of rotors should last through many many pad replacements.

Not these days. Rotor castings are done as cheaply as possible and machined very close to their minimum thickness. At best, you might turn them on a brake lathe once before they fall below the minimum thickness and you have to discard them.

You can thank the influx of cheap overseas parts and constant consumer demand for lower prices regardless of quality.

I suspect that the reason a lot of shops don't turn the rotors [or send them out to be turned] is they make more money replacing them.

Two issues with turning rotors:

1) A 'warped' brake rotor may not be solved by simply turning them. There is a good chance the problem will re-appear in a few months.

2) The minimum thickness issue stated above.

I know a few good mechanics, and the story is the same: It's not cost effective to turn brake rotors. The labor costs for a brake job are the same whether or not new or turned rotors are used. By the time you pay a technician or shop to turn the rotor, you can buy a new one for a few $$$ more. Also, if the warp returns, you have to go back in and replace the rotor which ends up being more expensive in the long run.

Add me to the elite list of warped rotors Rogue owners. Bought this thing October, 2011. I use this car very little since it was mainly purchased to replace a Nissan SE-R during the New England winters. As you know, we had no winter so I drove my SE-R and now ride my R6 everyday. So, no, no abuse here. This car is becoming a disappointment. Just to keep it in the Nissan family since I've owned many. I guess I'll follow my wife's lead and abandone brand loyalty... CX-5??? We already have a 7 in the garage...

"All my driving is hwy driving so very little brake use."

just want to add this tiny bit of brake knowledge: dont throw brakes into the mix of "highway miles being less abuse for engine/tranny"
people often think that stop & go traffic is brake abuse. WRONG. its tranny abuse- but not brake abuse.
Stopping or slowing down from highway speeds is brake abuse. your pads are in contact with the faster spinning rotor much longer, thus creating more heat - even if your gently using them; than if you were doing 15mph stop&go city traffic.

Turning rotors only decreases its strength by thinning the thickness of the rotor. Thin Metal = weak. Thick metal = strong. so all your doing is really wasting time & money.
Todays rotors and pads are made to be thrown away once signs of significant wear are detected. Todays brakes are used more often in cars for other purposes than just braking. some cars gently apply your brakes during rain to keep the rotors & pads dry. some cars use one side of the vehicles brakes to keep the car from swerving(new infiniti cars do that) etc. Its tough to compare the brake quality of brakes today to those of yesteryear. OUR PRESIDENT SIGNED LAWS ON THE BOOKS THAT EVERY CAR MUST MAKE A CERTAIN MPG- AND HOW DO YOU SUPPOSE THOSE TIGHT RESTRICTIONS ARE GOING TO BE MET? YOU GUESSED IT = WEIGHT LOSS. Every and any component that can be slimmed down of weight, will be. Have you ever picked up a rotor? its no frisbee by any means. Its heavy! so if it can be thinned out to borderline threshold limits to keep the car in a certain MPG it will be. what happens after that; who cares - as long as the MPG sticker states a palatable number.

more is made in china, more is made cheap, more is made to be affordable for today(not so much when you count it all up in the end) you can add that to the mix as well.

djR1SpecV wrote:Add me to the elite list of warped rotors Rogue owners. Bought this thing October, 2011. I use this car very little since it was mainly purchased to replace a Nissan SE-R during the New England winters. As you know, we had no winter so I drove my SE-R and now ride my R6 everyday. So, no, no abuse here. This car is becoming a disappointment. Just to keep it in the Nissan family since I've owned many. I guess I'll follow my wife's lead and abandone brand loyalty... CX-5??? We already have a 7 in the garage...

no disrespect to your R6, as my wifey rocks a 2006 R6- but take your bike to the track and see how that brembo master cylinder along with those giant drilled rotors hold up.... take it from me, my first track day = blew my mind at how my 2007 gsxr600's brakes SUCKED!
first thing i did after that track day was stainless steel brake lines, fresh dot4 fluid, new pads, cleaned every piston on both front calipers, and it was a world of a difference.
THE POINT TO MY STORY IS: nothing you buy today from the factory is up to the standards we once knew to accept. more and more stress is placed upon manufacturers to produce "eco-friendly" cars with exceptional MPG's - bikes included. so with that, anything that used to last long - will now be replaced with crap, just to keep the vehicle weight down to conform to the MPG requirements.

MARK MY WORDS- PRETTY SOON WE ALL WILL BE ROCKING PLASTIC DOORS & BODY PANELS LIKE SATURN HAD.

I have always used autopart internationals pads and rotors..even on a track car..we will see what the rogue gets this time around since the dealer installed new pads/res. front rotors 14k ago

just bought a full set of brake pads for $10.99/set for black Friday at pep-boys. im now shopping around for rotors.
i will never get cross-drilled as they develop dangerous hairline cracks.

I did mine around August and I put the "Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit" on my Rogue. Next time I get my brakes done I will be also putting new rotors.

ImStricken, let us know if you find some a good deal on slotted rotors...

JMed wrote:I did mine around August and I put the "Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit" on my Rogue. Next time I get my brakes done I will be also putting new rotors.

ImStricken, let us know if you find some a good deal on slotted rotors...

Rears:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261060545238?ss ... 1424.l2649

Fronts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150677071263?ss ... 1424.l2649

im not gonna replace my rear's just yet. cant justify the cost for them. they dont do enough stopping to warrant such a price-tag.
I CALLED UP PEP-BOYS & AUTOZONE, and their basic cheapest rotors are more expensive than theses slotted. so im pulling the plug.

ImStricken wrote:

JMed wrote:I did mine around August and I put the "Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Kit" on my Rogue. Next time I get my brakes done I will be also putting new rotors.

ImStricken, let us know if you find some a good deal on slotted rotors...

Rears:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261060545238?ss ... 1424.l2649

Fronts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150677071263?ss ... 1424.l2649

im not gonna replace my rear's just yet. cant justify the cost for them. they dont do enough stopping to warrant such a price-tag.
I CALLED UP PEP-BOYS & AUTOZONE, and their basic cheapest rotors are more expensive than theses slotted. so im pulling the plug.

powersport's are good..this week i have installed 3 sets of pads from pepboys on a camry and dodge journey.their ceramics are far better imo than autozones..wow from 74 to 14, i should of went anyways but my 315lb leg squat routine made me sleep 10hrs is this what the oem pad looks like?double chaffs http://www.courtesyparts.com/41000k-pad ... _7719_9316&

ImStricken wrote:Rears:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261060545238?ss ... 1424.l2649

Fronts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150677071263?ss ... 1424.l2649

im not gonna replace my rear's just yet. cant justify the cost for them. they dont do enough stopping to warrant such a price-tag.
I CALLED UP PEP-BOYS & AUTOZONE, and their basic cheapest rotors are more expensive than theses slotted. so im pulling the plug.

Expensive? That's what I basically paid for my Akebono Brake Pad Kit... Just like $10-15 bucks more expensive when you total both.

back in "07 pb had some sweet slotted and dimpled rotors in stock for spec v's..they were really good in auto-x and heck the car that i installed them on still has the same rotors

any update on the akebono or other ceramic pads? Noise,wear,etc.? need to change the brakes on the wife's car. was looking at either Hawk or the Akebono

part #s
Akebono Ceramic - ASP1338 front and ASP905 rear
Hawk Ceramic - HB660Z.661 front and HB370Z.559 rear

Any suggestions or comments on these?

dgms240 - I installed Hawk Ceramic Performance brakes on my 08 Nissan Rogue and had the original rotors machined. The Hawk brakes, although slightly expensive, are better than OEM. I found the OEM brakes to be a tad soft...

Yev wrote:dgms240 - I installed Hawk Ceramic Performance brakes on my 08 Nissan Rogue and had the original rotors machined. The Hawk brakes, although slightly expensive, are better than OEM. I found the OEM brakes to be a tad soft...

remember the higher performance/the harder the compound - the hotter they have to be in order to give peak braking performance. BUT the added advantage to that is that they work better under harder braking/higher heat ranges.
(example: forget ceramic, and forget semi-metallic. i have HH Sintered Metal Race Formula EBC Brakes Pads on my race-bike. They have virtually no braking power when cold lol. these are NOT for street use.) so just keep that in mind, when buying higher performance pads. sometimes higher performance ceramic auto pads might sound great, but you might not actually need them(nor the added expense)

PS: i always try and pre-warm my pads when on a highway, just in case i have to slam on my brakes. 15-10mins at away speeds is enough to cool your braking system. so when i have cars around, or its night time and im in deer season, i simply gently apply the brakes and give them a second or two to generate heat. I ALSO DO THIS IN THE RAIN TO DRY AND WARM THE SYSTEM JUST IN CASE I WOULD NEED IT. (anyone else do this? i know jaguar cars automatically do this for you. and i think audi as well. they try and dry the brake system in the rain)

ImStricken - You made a great point with regards to peak braking performance when it comes to performance ceramic brakes. One thing I would recommend is that the installation of performance brakes and rotor machining be done by a mechanic you know well. A friend of mine recommended his friend who is a Toyota mechanic. Not only did he do an awesome job, but he only charged me $100 for installing and machining the rear brakes/rotors. Last time I visited Nissan, they wanted $360 just for machining!

Yev wrote:ImStricken - You made a great point with regards to peak braking performance when it comes to performance ceramic brakes. One thing I would recommend is that the installation of performance brakes and rotor machining be done by a mechanic you know well. A friend of mine recommended his friend who is a Toyota mechanic. Not only did he do an awesome job, but he only charged me $100 for installing and machining the rear brakes/rotors. Last time I visited Nissan, they wanted $360 just for machining!

TRUE, but some people do their brakes themselves. thats always a great idea too, considering its really an easy job.

i just want to remind folks, that unless you have some inside prices; there is NO reason to machine your rotors. often times it costs just as much as new rotors. thinning your rotors does nothing in terms of increasing the likeliness of not needing to replace your rotors. in fact now a days it increases the chances of having to replace your rotors in the near future. rotors are really thin as it is, so machining them only makes them thinner. and thinner metal is more pliable.

Hi, everyone. I am aware that a similar thread regarding premature brake pad wear was posted, but my issue is slightly different. I purchased my 2008 Rogue in September of 2012. The dealership sold the car to me with the existing pads - 4mm on the rear and 6mm on the front. In December of 2012, I replaced my rear pads with Hawk Ceramic pads (HB600Z.539 --> 0.539 inches of compound thickness). The pads were installed and the rotors were machined by a friend who is a mechanic. Recently, I started hearing an intermittent screeching noise from the rear-passenger pad. I asked my friend to take a look and he confirmed that a raised line of rotor material was causing the screeching. I even ran my fingers across the rotor and noticed the difference. He also mentioned my rear pads had ~6mm of compound remaining. Now here is my question, how on earth, unless he did not measure, could my rear pads wear out more than 50% in 3 months? I should probably add that I don't drive regularly - low KM. He also confirmed that nothing is seized and even I don't notice any resistance or brake contact when driving. I did further research and found this article: http://trueler.com/2010/09/09/nissan-in ... ut-defect/. Something's not right here...

Yev wrote:Hi, everyone. I am aware that a similar thread regarding premature brake pad wear was posted, but my issue is slightly different. I purchased my 2008 Rogue in September of 2012. The dealership sold the car to me with the existing pads - 4mm on the rear and 6mm on the front. In December of 2012, I replaced my rear pads with Hawk Ceramic pads (HB600Z.539 --> 0.539 inches of compound thickness). The pads were installed and the rotors were machined by a friend who is a mechanic. Recently, I started hearing an intermittent screeching noise from the rear-passenger pad. I asked my friend to take a look and he confirmed that a raised line of rotor material was causing the screeching. I even ran my fingers across the rotor and noticed the difference. He also mentioned my rear pads had ~6mm of compound remaining. Now here is my question, how on earth, unless he did not measure, could my rear pads wear out more than 50% in 3 months? I should probably add that I don't drive regularly - low KM. He also confirmed that nothing is seized and even I don't notice any resistance or brake contact when driving. I did further research and found this article: http://trueler.com/2010/09/09/nissan-in ... ut-defect/. Is anyone experiencing a similar issue?

since this is a detailed question, i am going to structure my reply in segments. i moved your thread, to the existing brake pads & rotors chatroom. its a common problem, so it belongs in the specified chatroom.

having raced my bike on the track, one of the first few things you learn and realize is horsepower and engine performance means nothing if you cant stop. brakes are a lot more intricate and extensive than many give them credit for. brakes are not all equal, and need to be replaced with like styled components. for example: your 1st mistake was ordering brand new, slightly more aggressive pads; for stock rotors that were weakened by being machined.(more on that later, below)

1. what you are experiencing could be the common problem other have, in models across the nissan brand. (since we share the rear brakes with the G35, and a couple other cars.)

2. brake rotor "scoring" happens due to many reasons. one of which could be caused for overly aggressive pads coupled with weaker rotors. if the pads are too aggressive or too hard of a compound, then they are stronger than the rotors - thus causing scoring. also, if your rotors where machined; they are now thinner, more easily pliable, and all around weaker. adding an aggressive brake pad will in fact score them even faster. furthermore dirt trapped, can cause scoring. poorly vented pads can cause scoring. REPLACE YOUR ROTORS to make sure as you go along the process of elimination.

3. when you replaced your pads, was a proper bleeding procedure done on your vehicle? nissan is known for having rear brake calipers that begin to experience seal failure in the calipers, thus ingesting moisture, water, debris, and AIR. a tiny air bubble in the braking system will expand the pressure in the lines and double within 2-3 second of the brake pedal being depressed. that swelled bubble will stay there causing the braking pressure to rise, activating the closest caliper. it might not be enough pressure for you to feel, but a brake pad slightly making contact with the rotor will rise in temps, and going beyond its operating temps, and literately wear off before you know it. BLEED YOUR LINES to make sure as you go along the process of elimination.

4. has your friend inspected the e-brake/parking brake cable to make sure its not snagged, nor getting snagged?

5. did your friend inspect the vacuum line coming from the master cylinder?

6. ceramic pads eat rotors. its that simple. The easiest explanation for this is to think of sand paper. You use coarse(ceramic pad) for removing paint, while using ultra fine(organic) for polishing paint. Brake pads are exactly the same. Look at some metallic brake pads and see the size of the wire and steel particles in the mix.

7. i would make sure all your calipers are in perfect operating order.

8. now a days cars apply the rear pads first, to help steady the suspension prior to preloading the front suspension. it helps trail braking, while cornering.

9. its not uncommon for pads sometimes to wear quickly. it happens. could be a bad batch. i have heard of very high performance brakes that too failed, glazed over - and didnt stop at all. thats life.

10. light scoring is PERFECTLY normal. there is not a single car with more than 1000 miles that wont have scoring on the rotor.

PS: if you are looking to read into brake rotors, visit my writeup here: post6346778.html#p6346778

ImStricken - THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I read your other post and found it interesting. I remember a Nissan mechanic inspecting a GTR and I glanced at the rotors only to find hairline cracks emanating from the vent holes. I will speak with my friend tomorrow regarding your suggestions. By the way, my friend also suggested I replace my rotors...