Nissan rebuilt transmission longevity?

[hpark21]

Hello.

My 2014 Rogue SL's transmission just bit the dust after 75k miles.

Interesting as I was just discussing CVT fluid swap with my mechanic since I JUST found out that CVT fluid change was recommended at 60k miles and about a week after, the transmission started jerking and a day later, check engine light came on and the dealer that I left the car with told me I need a new transmission.

THANKFULLY, I bought the car as "CPO" which came with 7 yr 100k powertrain warranty which was to about to expire in 2 weeks. (I guess if it was going to go, no better time than this time I guess).

Anyways, I noticed that they replaced my transmission with "rebuilt" transmission so I am just wondering whether they have made any "modifications" recently with their transmission to make it a bit more robust as at this time, Nissan has been using CVT for almost 20 years ( a LOT more than others) and at this point, I noticed that practically everyone appears to be moving to CVTs (Toyota Corolla, Honda civic/CRV/Accord, Subaru).

I wonder whether "rebuilt" parts are now more robust in their "failure points". I think it is SUPER DUMB to get rid of dipstick for CVT fluids as open the overflow bolt and wait until it sort of /kind of/drizzles and you are good seem a bit "wishy/washy".

[VStar650CL]

When they rebuild, the valve body, belt, and both pulleys are all replaced, which pretty much covers everything critical. The rest of this goes all the way back to the silly "lifetime fluid" claims that came with the gen1 CVT's. There's no such thing, and no OEM should be saying there is. Depending on where you live and your driving habits, 60K can already be way too long. Nissan recommends 30K for "severe" service and that's what most people should adhere to if they want the transmission to last.

[VStar650CL]

I think it is SUPER DUMB to get rid of dipstick for CVT fluids as open the overflow bolt and wait until it sort of /kind of/drizzles and you are good seem a bit "wishy/washy".

PS - The real reason for this is because, in addition to be totally dependent on fluid quality, "foaming" of the fluid from overfilling is very destructive very quickly to any CVT. Using the bottom-up fill method pretty much assures that the fluid level will be precise. CVT's will not tolerate overfilling like an engine or conventional A/T, even a slight amount can cause severe problems.

[worldbikr]

2008 rebuilt at 80k miles. At 319k now.

[hpark21]

I think it is SUPER DUMB to get rid of dipstick for CVT fluids as open the overflow bolt and wait until it sort of /kind of/drizzles and you are good seem a bit "wishy/washy".

PS - The real reason for this is because, in addition to be totally dependent on fluid quality, "foaming" of the fluid from overfilling is very destructive very quickly to any CVT. Using the bottom-up fill method pretty much assures that the fluid level will be precise. CVT's will not tolerate overfilling like an engine or conventional A/T, even a slight amount can cause severe problems.

So you think they did this because dipstick isn't precise enough? Just wondering.
That said, what if I do extraction method through dipstick tube with exact measurement to replace the fluids.
Like 3qt out, 3qt in type of thing.

[VStar650CL]

So you think they did this because dipstick isn't precise enough? Just wondering.

Yes. Stuff happens, people mis-read sticks, tubes get bent, lazy people add a bit too much and don't drain the excess thinking it will be okay. Bottom fill prevents errors like that.

That said, what if I do extraction method through dipstick tube with exact measurement to replace the fluids.
Like 3qt out, 3qt in type of thing.

That works fine provided you know the trans is tight and doesn't leak, and that you're exacting in your measurements.

[VStar650CL]

PS - If you can get the vehicle up on 4 jacks on level ground, there's nothing wrong with filling from the top and then letting the excess drain underneath so the leveling tube can do it's job. We fill bottom-up because we have the tool and it's simpler than bouncing the lift up and down, but there's no law against top filling and bottom draining.

[Mtech2]

It's the valve body that fails these older CVT's according to NissanDoctor on YT. I asked if a pre-emptive replacement of the valve body is a good idea, they said no. YMMV.

[VStar650CL]

It's the valve body that fails these older CVT's according to NissanDoctor on YT. I asked if a pre-emptive replacement of the valve body is a good idea, they said no. YMMV.

The VB's have moving parts too and are as dependent on fluid quality as any other hydraulic component. There's no clutch material to make "transmission soup" like a regular A/T, but CVT fluid does go to varnish over time in the same way. I can't prove it with data, but I suspect a lot of "bad" VB's happen from just that, simple varnish accumulation.

[Mtech2]

Apparently, the valve bodies that gives trouble is made of aluminum that is too soft, some grades of aluminum are harder. There is talk that Jatco has made changes, improving this area for durability, but if these changes are 'backwards compatible' with older models is not known to me.

[PeterH_605]

Personally, I would put a second transmission cooler onto the rebuilt CVT.

The overflow bolt makes perfect sense to me, makes it impossible to have too much fluid in the transmission.

[datechboss101]

I can tell you this. My 16 had its original CVT survive till I wrecked the entire vehicle at 109k miles. Best bet is to keep doing regular maintenance on it like every 30k miles. Since its a rebuilt trans, don't do a flush unless its the stealership doing it, so it can be on their dime if they done mess up.

[tsumeone]

Nissan recommends 30K for "severe" service and that's what most people should adhere to if they want the transmission to last.

My CVT went at about 86k. It started having judder and throwing a code that basically said replace transmission. I had the fluid changed at 30k and 60k by a Nissan dealership who put NS-2 instead of NS-3 both times. I had to fight with Nissan about it but they did eventually replace the transmission. Kinda hard for them to argue against it when the manual specifically says using anything other than NS-3 will damage the transmission and void the warranty and the dealership wrote receipts specifically stating they used NS-2 both times. And the 2nd time the dealer changed the fluid, I even called them out on it and they essentially told me "the fluid that came out was green so we put the green one which is NS-2" - no joke.

I've been on my rebuilt one for about a year and no issues so far.

[VStar650CL]

I even called them out on it and they essentially told me "the fluid that came out was green so we put the green one which is NS-2" - no joke.

OMFG.

You're quite right, NS3 is downward compatible to replace NS2, but NS2 is not upward compatible to replace NS3.