Nissan Quest 2013 CVT drain and fill.

[Alhowaidi]

I just purchased a 2013 Quest S with 129k miles. I want to do a drain and fill twice as the fluid was darkish green (doesn't smell, just dark). I would like to DIY this process. Any recommendations on how many quarts it takes, what the drain plug washer part number is, what the torque specs for the transmission drain plug are, and whether I should do it while running or cold? Note: the transmission oil was overfilled, beyond the hot mark even in a cold temperature, so I intend to reduce the amount. I checked this before starting the car (see attached picture-oil level was at the red mark on level surface).

Thank you so much

[VStar650CL]

If the stick is accurate then it's way overfull, and the '13's did come with a stick so chances are it's accurate. However, make sure you're reading it right. One side of the stick will always read higher than the other because of the entry angle, and the lower side is the correct one to read. You also can't trust the stick right after adding fluid, it tends to adhere to the tube sides and mess up the readings. Give it a couple minutes between check-and-adds.

The '09B CVT's generally take right around 4 quarts, but I'd have 5 on hand. If you're dropping the pan, the big thing to watch out for is aftermarket filters. Many parts stores have the '09A screen listed as interchangeable with the '09B, but that's wrong. The '09A had a deeper pan than the '09B, so using an '09A filter will bottom the pickup against the pan. That will cause the van to not move after you button up the pan, because the pickup will be blocked. Check the thickness of the new screen assembly before installing it, if the new one is taller then return it for the right one.

[Alhowaidi]

If the stick is accurate then it's way overfull, and the '13's did come with a stick so chances are it's accurate. However, make sure you're reading it right. One side of the stick will always read higher than the other because of the entry angle, and the lower side is the correct one to read. You also can't trust the stick right after adding fluid, it tends to adhere to the tube sides and mess up the readings. Give it a couple minutes between check-and-adds.

The '09B CVT's generally take right around 4 quarts, but I'd have 5 on hand. If you're dropping the pan, the big thing to watch out for is aftermarket filters. Many parts stores have the '09A screen listed as interchangeable with the '09B, but that's wrong. The '09A had a deeper pan than the '09B, so using an '09A filter will bottom the pickup against the pan. That will cause the van to not move after you button up the pan, because the pickup will be blocked. Check the thickness of the new screen assembly before installing it, if the new one is taller then return it for the right one.

Thank you so much for your response. I'm not planning to take out the pan. Just drain and fill this time. Do you recommend draining and filling (and checking level) while car is cold or hot? And am I looking for the oil to be between the notches on the hatch area?

[VStar650CL]

Stick checks should be done running and preferably warm, they're less accurate when cold. On most Nissan sticks the hatches are warm and the notches are cold, but whichever set is higher on the stick will be the warm marks.

[Alhowaidi]

Stick checks should be done running and preferably warm, they're less accurate when cold. On most Nissan sticks the hatches are warm and the notches are cold, but whichever set is higher on the stick will be the warm marks.

Thank you! Does it matter if I use Valvoline CVT compatible with NS-2? The thing is, it says on the bottle that it is NS-2 and NS-3 compatible. I'm not sure how that works.

Also, given that I'm draining and filling, whatever oil I will be using will be mixed with the new type (I'm not flushing), therefore, the new Valvoline type will be mixed with the old unknown type. Would that be an issue?

[VStar650CL]

I've never seen any miscibility issues between fluids as long as they claim NS3 compatibility. NS3 is downward compatible with NS2, so you can freely use NS3 in an NS2 transmission and all the aftermarket NS3's I'm aware of also claim compatibility with NS2. Your '13 Quest takes NS2 so this doesn't apply to you, but for the benefit of others, NS2 is not upward compatible with NS3 and shouldn't be used in an NS3 transmission.

[Alhowaidi]

I've never seen any miscibility issues between fluids as long as they claim NS3 compatibility. NS3 is downward compatible with NS2, so you can freely use NS3 in an NS2 transmission and all the aftermarket NS3's I'm aware of also claim compatibility with NS2. Your '13 Quest takes NS2 so this doesn't apply to you, but for the benefit of others, NS2 is not upward compatible with NS3 and shouldn't be used in an NS3 transmission.

Thank you!

[VStar650CL]

[Alhowaidi]

Just a quick question. If I don't know the CVT transmission oil change history (whether it was changed or not), should I change it? The vehicle has 129k miles. I'm tending to change it and got the oil, but a few people made me hesitant at this point, saying it may cause harm if not changed previously. Thank you!

[VStar650CL]

Nope. That's conventional wisdom about conventional A/T's, and it's correct in that context. Conventional A/T's eventually make "ATF soup" from used-up clutch material, and often that's the only thing keeping the seals together. So basically you run it till it breaks because a fluid change may kill the Valve Body.

ABSOLUTELY NONE OF THAT APPLIES TO CVT's. CVT's have almost no clutch material and thus have no ingredients to make ATF soup. However, the belt and pulleys are metal-on-metal, and the only thing preventing metal from meeting metal is the quality of the fluid. So the CVT equation is much different from a conventional A/T... when the fluid dies, the transmission dies with it.

In a word, change that s#it ASAP.

[Alhowaidi]

Nope. That's conventional wisdom about conventional A/T's, and it's correct in that context. Conventional A/T's eventually make "ATF soup" from used-up clutch material, and often that's the only thing keeping the seals together. So basically you run it till it breaks because a fluid change may kill the Valve Body.

ABSOLUTELY NONE OF THAT APPLIES TO CVT's. CVT's have almost no clutch material and thus have no ingredients to make ATF soup. However, the belt and pulleys are metal-on-metal, and the only thing preventing metal from meeting metal is the quality of the fluid. So the CVT equation is much different from a conventional A/T... when the fluid dies, the transmission dies with it.

In a word, change that s#it ASAP.

Thank you! I'm changing it now.

[VStar650CL]

[Alhowaidi]

Quick update. The oil was so black. I just drained approximately 10.5 quarts! That was crazy! I ended up adding almost 4.5 quarts after checking to reach the hatch level while warm. My guess is the previous owner drained and refilled without accounting for the oil in the toruqe system.

Car drives perfect, will be checking frequently this week on various "level" surfaces to see where the oil level are.

[VStar650CL]

You may have got very lucky that the previous owner way overfilled it. The reason overfilling is deadly to CVT's is because it foams the fluid, and the bubbles create unlubricated "hot spots" on the belt and pulleys. However, if it's filled to the point where there's zero airspace and the belt is completely immersed even with the pump running, I'd imagine that can't happen. Luckily it didn't blow out the pump or trash the seals, so the upshot is, he may have inadvertently saved that transmission by being a really thorough idiot.