Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

The club for Nissan Maxima and Infiniti I30 / I35 owners, and the official home of Maxima Club of America!
mkaresh
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Car: 2003 Mazda Protege5
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Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby mkaresh » Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:50 am

We've updated our reliability stats for the Maxima to include owner experiences through the end of 2014.

Repair frequencies, in terms of repair trips per 100 cars per year:

2012 Maxima: 19, low, small sample size
2011 Maxima: 27, low, small sample size
2010 Maxima: 39, low, very small sample size
2009 Maxima: 57, moderate
2006 Maxima: 100, high, very small sample size
2004 Maxima: 63, low, very small sample size
2003 Maxima: 62, low
2002 Maxima: 65, low
2001 Maxima: 121, high
2000 Maxima: 80, low

We'll have further updates in May and in August. The more owners participate, the more comprehensive and precise these will be.

For the details, including how competitors compare, and to sign up to help improve this information:

Nissan Maxima reliability ratings and comparisons


mkaresh
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:45 am
Car: 2003 Mazda Protege5
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Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby mkaresh » Mon Aug 03, 2015 1:09 pm

So, how have these cars been doing lately?

Our reliability stats for the Maxima now include owner experiences through March 31, 2015. (Others are nearly a year behind.)

In terms of repair trips per 100 cars per year ("low" is best):

2012 Maxima: 22, low, small sample size
2011 Maxima: 7, low, small sample size
2010 Maxima: 42, low, small sample size
2009 Maxima: 58, moderate, small sample size
2006 Maxima: 87, moderate, very small sample size
2004 Maxima: 47, low, very small sample size
2003 Maxima: 93, moderate, small sample size
2002 Maxima: 58, low
2001 Maxima: 97, moderate, small sample size
2000 Maxima: 93, moderate

No stat for a model year? Then we very much need more participants for it. Same for those with small sample size notes. Next updates in August and November.

For repair descriptions, the stats for other cars, and to sign up to help improve this information:

Nissan Maxima reliability

Cedric6581
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 11:19 pm
Car: 2002 I35/maxima

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby Cedric6581 » Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:25 pm

1990 Maxima GXE 225,000 miles. Engine and auto tranny still original Front struts replaced 205,000 labor is $100.00 total. 200,000k Lower suspension arms replaced, parts from ebay $125.00 labor is $120.00. AC compressor replaced plus r134 conversion $330.0 217.000.
Still getting 22 mpg on city and 30 mpg on freeway. Awesome car.
I tried going to truedelta.com but page was blank.

robert1234
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 3:13 pm

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby robert1234 » Wed Aug 19, 2015 3:21 pm

I've have 2 Maximas now , a 2002 which I still have and a 2011. Today my 2011 CVT just quit without warning. Had fluid changed as suggested too. I treat my cars like babies. Had it towed and now the dealer is saying $5400 dollars toreplace it because its out of warranty by 7000 miles.
What to do, any ideas someone?
I cant pay that much to have it repaired when I'm still paying on the car.
I'm totally pissed.
What to do?

AlbertaMaxima
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:00 pm
Car: 2007 Maxima SE 199,000 km

2007 Maxima SE Reliability CVT, Camshaft senors, oil leak, spark plugs.

Postby AlbertaMaxima » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:06 pm

Purchased in 2011 93,000 km, August 2015 199,200 km
Had Nissan service CVT just after purchase. Dealer DID NOT FLUSH as requested, just cleaned pan and replaced 4.5 L NS2.
Changed both camshaft sensors -1st at shop $350, 2nd myself $90 plus 1 hour.
Oil leak from rear valve cover, repaired when remove cover to change rear bank plugs (double platinum from factory, $38/plug from Nissan) No misfire codes, minimal wear at 185,000 km.

Transmission Whine! No whine until 185,000. Now difficult to drive car in school zones, CVT engages/disengages and freewheels at 30-35 kmh. Noticeable whine when hot. Sounds like bad power steering pump, but is coming from CVT
Fresh fault code -Catalytic converter bank 1, Code is P0420

mkaresh
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:45 am
Car: 2003 Mazda Protege5
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Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby mkaresh » Mon Oct 19, 2015 9:44 am

Our reliability stats for the Maxima now cover the year ending June 30, 2015. (Others are over a year behind, and so report how these cars were doing when a year younger.)

Repair trips per 100 cars:

2012 Maxima: 9, low, small sample size
2011 Maxima: 8, low, small sample size
2010 Maxima: 32, low, small sample size
2009 Maxima: 58, moderate, small sample size
2006 Maxima: 59, low, very small sample size
2004 Maxima: 39, low, very small sample size
2003 Maxima: 103, moderate, small sample size
2002 Maxima: 96, moderate
2001 Maxima: 110, moderate, small sample size
2000 Maxima: 112, moderate

If a model year isn't listed, or its sample size is small, then we especially need more owners involved.

For the descriptions of all reported repairs, results for other models, and to sign up to help improve this information:

Nissan Maxima reliability ratings and comparisons

mkaresh
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:45 am
Car: 2003 Mazda Protege5
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Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby mkaresh » Tue Jan 26, 2016 11:22 am

We've updated our reliability stats for the Maxima to include owner experiences through September 30, 2015. In terms of repair trips per 100 cars per year:

2012 Maxima: 13, low, very small sample size
2011 Maxima: 17, low, small sample size
2010 Maxima: 32, low, small sample size
2009 Maxima: 47, low, small sample size
2003 Maxima: 118, high, small sample size
2002 Maxima: 107, moderate
2001 Maxima: 121, high, small sample size
2000 Maxima: 96, moderate, small sample size

We'll have further updates in February and in May. Additional participants are needed to provide precise stats for all model years.

For the details, including repair descriptions, and to sign up to help improve this information:

Nissan Maxima reliability ratings and comparisons

destructo
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 4:21 pm
Car: 1996 Nissan maxima

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby destructo » Sat Feb 20, 2016 4:29 pm

I would like to sign up however I own a 96 maxima with 325,000 so many things have been replaced and many still need to be. I feel I would impact the small samples because I have a car that's been through hell.

destructo
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 4:21 pm
Car: 1996 Nissan maxima

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby destructo » Sat Feb 20, 2016 4:30 pm

Failed to notice 2000 and up. But yeah

mkaresh
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Car: 2003 Mazda Protege5
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Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby mkaresh » Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:57 am

We've updated our reliability stats for the Maxima to include owner experiences through the end of 2015, about eight months ahead of other sources. In terms of repair trips per 100 cars per year--lower is better:

2012 Maxima: 15, low, very small sample size
2011 Maxima: 17, low, small sample size
2010 Maxima: 46, moderate, small sample size
2009 Maxima: 31, low, small sample size
2003 Maxima: 144, high, small sample size
2002 Maxima: 92, moderate
2001 Maxima: 86, moderate, small sample size
2000 Maxima: 83, moderate, small sample size

No stat, or a small sample size? Then we especially need more owners involved for that model year.

For the repairs behind these stats, reliability information on other models, and to sign up to help improve this information:

Nissan Maxima reliability ratings and comparisons

tarahtori
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat May 28, 2016 9:40 am
Car: 2012 A34 Maxima SV

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby tarahtori » Sun May 29, 2016 2:25 pm

Have a '12 Maxima SV (A34) within 28K miles the vehicle information display in the cluster went black. Then I noticed during acceleration that the emergency break light indicator would illuminate but once I get off the gas it goes out. The next annoying issue was the passenger rear door would not open from inside (repaired for $80.00) Next issue was the driver side low-beam headlamp went out. Purchased a xenon bulb for $99.00 and discovered that was not the problem. I am looking for a control module online right now because Nissan wants $500.00 for the part and $180.00 to install it.

Discovered that the wheel and front bumper cover have to come off to get to the headlamp to replace the control module..... :rolleyes: I guess if you're gonna run with the big boys you gotta have deep pockets or a lot of elbow grease. I was delusional thinking that the better quality vehicle the better the workmanship!

(Still own a 2006 Altima SE with a 3.5 and 145K miles. Have only had to replace the valve cover gaskets and alternator. Love the Altima for it's mechanical reliability, love my maxima for it's handling, amenities & looks.) Has it ever left me on the side of the road? NO! I feel safe enough driving it out of town but I'm always worried that small things are going to need repairs....spending more money.

mkaresh
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:45 am
Car: 2003 Mazda Protege5
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Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby mkaresh » Sun Nov 20, 2016 12:08 pm

We've updated our reliability stats for the Maxima to include owner experiences through June 30, 2016. Repair frequencies, in terms of repair trips per 100 cars per year (lower is better):

2016 Maxima: 35, moderate, very small sample size
2012 Maxima: 0, low, very small sample size
2011 Maxima: 29, low, very small sample size
2010 Maxima: 27, low, very small sample size
2009 Maxima: 10, low, very small sample size
2003 Maxima: 125, moderate, small sample size
2002 Maxima: 43, low, small sample size
2001 Maxima: 92, moderate, very small sample size

As suggested by the sample size notes, additional participants would be very helpful.

For the repairs behind these stats, reliability information on other models, and to sign up to help improve this information:

Nissan Maxima reliability ratings and comparisons

2001GLESD
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun May 28, 2017 10:04 pm
Car: 2001 GLE. 220K Miles. VQ30. K&N Drop In. 35/5% Tint. More coming soon.

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby 2001GLESD » Sun May 28, 2017 10:46 pm

2001 gle 220K miles. Purchased at 113k miles. Daily driven. Have changed alternator, starter, front axle due to torn boot. All O2 sensors. Precat and mid cat assy. All 4 wheel bearings. Battery. Idler pulley. Ignition coil pack. Center vent assy. Radiator fan assy.And of course bose rear speaker. Running beautifully smooth today.

InfinitiMaxima
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2017 12:15 am
Car: 2013 Altima 2.5, 40k-65k
2006 Maxima, 175k-200k

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby InfinitiMaxima » Mon Oct 09, 2017 12:48 am

I like to think I have a bullet proof factory production batch here. Had this 2006 Maxima in the family since 180k miles and have been giving it an oil change every 2.5k since then. Before that was a single owner, a friend. It is daily driven and always has been, never sat. It was however abused incredibly, never babied, regularly driven at 100mph, has hit countless potholes at speed, been in a couple of minor accidents. To my understanding, this car has never had any problems at all. It still meets its original fuel economy rating, I believe 19/28 city/highway. It was serviced at the proper intervals since new and has not needed anything that was not listed as standard maintenance. It never needed common 'super old car' repairs, battery replaced for the first time at 180k, never an alternator, never an interior issue, not a single button switch or lever has broken or even become loose. There isn't even a hint of hiccup upon ignition to this day. The intervals in the manual stop just under 200k so I have been searching the internet for help and made an account here. Please help me keep this running strong?

Flash777
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2017 4:21 pm
Car: 2017 Nissan Maxima

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby Flash777 » Thu Oct 19, 2017 2:18 pm

Just got a 17 model year Maxima. So far so good.

Lovemyride
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2017 11:14 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Maxima SE, 6 speed manual

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby Lovemyride » Thu Nov 23, 2017 11:54 pm

I just bought a 03 Maxima SE 6 speed manual. It currently has about 202,000 miles but still runs surprisingly strong. As far as i am aware it is still the original everything(such as the motor) accept the driver side door has been replace. All the options worked accept I swapped out the radio for a 7” double din DVD player, speakers, as well as adding a 12” subwoofer and 1000 watt amp due to the CD and tape player options didn’t work. My steering is slightly tilted to the passenger side and it pulls slightly to the drivers side and it vibrates a bit more than it should. Other than that I’m happy with it. After an alighnment and suspension inspection my next step will be possibly an axel back exhaust, 1.5” lowering springs and/or cold air intake as well as window “visors”. Oh and new aftermarket headlights. My stock ones are SUPER foggy. Any upgrade suggestions would be appreciated. Upgrading to digital climate control will be in there somewhere. Thanks in advance!!

ThePirate
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:17 pm
Car: 2002 I35
Location: Austin, TX

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby ThePirate » Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:38 pm

Got an '02 I35, has been in the family since new. Car only has 93k on it today. Few things, but nothing too major. When dad had it there was the exhaust pipe/muffler, which went pretty quick, maybe 40k mi. Car was always garaged.

When my sister had it, there was leaking steering rack replaced, vacuum canister, airbag was a recall item (did I read the info correctly that there is a $5,000 per car settlement coming?).

I got it at 88k miles. Rear shock was shot, clunking around. I replaced struts all around with Monroe quickstruts. Brakes pads and rotors re-surfaced. Before relocating to TX, had all fluids replaced: brake, tranny, oil change/filter. Two new tires.

Noticing a pretty good oil loss lately. Don't see any white smoke, not sure where it's going, but it's going somewhere. And getting some front end clunkiness. Maybe just sway bar links, hopefully not control arms and all the rest of it.

Anyone have any thoughts on the oil consumption? I read on here that it's typical for the engine, which is otherwise a really good engine, great mileage and lots of power, dino oil at 5k.

Usually just use the mid grade gas, and that even only in summer. Have been using reg. around here in winter.

BelieveMore
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2018 9:13 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Maxima
2009 Nissan Armada

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby BelieveMore » Wed Oct 03, 2018 3:58 pm

I had a 2000 Nissan Maxima that I traded in last year for a 2008 Nissan Maxima with 80,000 miles on it!! My 2000 Maxima was within about 5 miles of turning over 200,000 miles with very little money put into it for 5 years!! I’m hoping that my 2008 Maxima does just as well for me!! I’m hooked!!

yyzmaxima
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Mar 10, 2019 1:24 pm
Car: 2011 Maxima

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby yyzmaxima » Sun Mar 10, 2019 1:46 pm

2011 Maxima bought of Corporate Lease in Oct 2011 with 18K kilometers.(12K Miles)
Mechanically have only done routine maintenance now have
150K kilometers or roughly 100k miles.
Had to replace Drivers seat under warranty early one due to excess movement in the seat back under normal braking. Problem still exists.
Radio was also replaced under warranty as it would reboot itself when using XM Radio and Navigation.
Dealer is recommending Injector and Throtle Body services along with changing the plugs. Not sure if it includes the coils as well but the estimate seems high at C$750.
Looking for second opinions.

zul8tr
Posts: 83
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 2:32 am
Car: 1998 Infiniti I30, 1992 300ZX

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby zul8tr » Mon Apr 08, 2019 2:48 am

1998 I30 silver with black interior, bought used in 2000 with 20k miles now have 166k miles. Have done factory recall on alt and warranty on: airbags, cruise dash switch, rear tail light plastic panel. Out of warranty did DIY: knock sensor, CE light bulb, replaced steering rack bellows rubber boots, drive belts, starter, replaced both leaking valve cover gaskets, left and right O2 sensors, NGK platinum spark plugs at 70k miles, one bad plug coil passenger rear. Recently did Raybestos E3 brake pads and rotors and do all fluid and other maintenance including my special DIY tire alignment. Most shops do terrible quick alignments they just shoot for the middle of the spec and call it ok, not good. Shops do my tire balance but I insist they check for rim lateral runout and out of round and match tire to rim at 1st harmonic (factory tire colored dot to correct rim position dot and generally not the tire dot to the rim inflation valve location).

Had front CV axles replaced bad boots, also had a lower ball joint replaced due to shop damage by a bad mechanic. Gotta watch these guys.

AC never serviced and no FREON leaks and blows cold (rare for 166k 21 year old car) changed auto tranny fluid often and no run issues or leaks , I do 4-5k on oil and filter presently using high mileage semi syn oil. Engine does not burn oil but has a slight rear main seal leak (any thoughts on seal additives to fix to costly to replace seal?)

Presently has a dead automatic radio antenna that is low on fix list.

I use E10 87 and get 18-20 city and 28-31 highway, depends on fuel and terrain.
All in all a decent car.

Looking to replace this I30 but not sure what car will be good, most are excessively loaded with stuff that I do not need.
Would like a small SUV(not the big 5k+ pounds big guys) with a V6 (seems they have been replaced with 4 banger with turbos , yuck! ) They are wanting to increase their CAFE number. Also hate the stop-start tech and CV trannies.

Tom1998I30
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:39 pm
Car: 1998 I30 auto vlsd

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby Tom1998I30 » Wed Aug 21, 2019 10:26 pm

I have a 1998 I30 that I bought on CL about 9 yrs ago. Mechanically it is just like the maxima. I bought it with 230,000 miles and it now has 385,000 miles. The timing chain broke without warning 2 days ago. No rattling at idle and no check engine light. In the time I have owned it, I have had to do very little from 230,000 to 385,000.

Here is a quick break down to give you a an idea about reliability.


- I never replaced the MAF, and it is still the original from what I can tell. Same with the throttle body and IAC valve. I cleaned the MAF one time during ownership.


- heads were never off the engine, no engine repair was ever needed.

- original electric cooling fans lasted until about 356,000 miles. The motors still worked but the some of the plastic fan blades broke off while I was idling in a parking lot.

- at 385,000 I was still on the original transmission. Jatco might make junk cvts now, but the 4 speed auto in this car was very good. Bang shifted 2-3 sometimes, but I liked the firm shift. It worked the same at 385,000, that it did at 230,00. I never dropped the pan and the outside of the trans was bone dry and never leaked a drop in all the years I owned it. I drained and filled with valvoline import full synthetic when fluid would start to get dark. I never replaced the trans filter.

- still has the original water pump at 385000, car never ran hot idling in 105 degree California traffic jams, with the ac on.

- all the fuel injectors and coils are still original from what I can tell. I never changed them from 230,000 to 385000. The front injectors looked pretty crusty and weathered on the outside when I got it, and the original owner never said he replaced them. When I did spark plugs, all the coils were Nissan, the owner could have done the coils before I got it, but I never had to. I never had misfires that some people do with these engines. In the entire 9 years I did the spark plugs 1 time.

- original fuel pump as far as I can tell, I never had to change it.

- I never had to replace any power door locks or motors. They all still work. The front heated power seats both still work very good. I never had an electrical gremlin with this car. In the 8-9 years I owned I might have replaced 2, 3 at the most, brake bulbs.

- Parking brake worked perfect, I don’t believe I ever did the rear brake pads or rotors. I did the front pads/ and rotors only 3 times.

- alternator replaced 2 times. Once when I first bought it, and once about a year ago.

- front and rear valve cover gaskets replaced 2 times. Once 8 years ago, and once just recently.

- original rear suspension never touched, still has original coil springs and struts. No bounce, sag, or noises. I did the front struts and all the front strut rubber hardware twice, and the front springs one time. Nothing to the rear.

- 1 bad ball joint in the entire time I owned it, it was one of the original control arms. I ended up getting aftermarket moog, and pressing in energy suspension poly bushing. This helps were the were valve cover leaks oil on the passenger side rubber control arm bushing. I did the front sway bar end links 1 time because the rubber was rotted.

- I never replaced the steering rack, pump or lines. There was a small leak several years ago and I topped off with Lucas power steering stop leak. Leak completely stopped. That was a couple years ago. Last summer I used an eye dropper to replace the fluid 3x until it was clean. I believe I used full synthetic Walmart fluid, and a very small amount of Lucas. No leaks.

- The original air conditioning system lasted until 354,000 miles. Had to do the whole ac system when the compression grenaded. New compressor, condenser, dryer, etc. I never needed to replace any of the ac pressure hoses though.


- original charcoal canister leaked charcoal into the system at 365,000 miles. Replaced from part I bought at oreillys. Used the maxima tsb to fix the system. Blew out the system with air per the tsb.

- 2-3 fuel filters, I never was super strict about replacing these.

- original crank pulley came apart in the 350,000 mile range. The rubber came loose from the metal and threw the alt belt. I never did the idler pulleys and I only put 2 maybe 3 sets of belts on. I used dayco belts which are cheap and work excellent on these cars.

- never any problems with the antilock brake system, wiper motor, windshield washer, or sunroof motor. Sunroof never leaked and still operated very quickly.


Nagging problems with this model.

1) the rear valve cover will eventually leak If you drive this car like a daily. I you live in an apartment, it isn’t something that is easily replaced if your landlord doesn’t want you working on cars.

2) the dreaded rear main seal. $$$$ to fix, and you have to hope someone does it correctly. The are a lot of fragile wiring connectors to be disconnected on the drivers side of engine, some control evap. There is also a massive vacuum “ log” with a bunch of connectors, and a coolant hose and pipe to dissconnect. These parts will surely break when dismantled on a 20yr old car. If the harness gets screwed up, you get a check engine light for the emission system. Expensive and very annoying and time consuming to get the light off once it trips the evap code. In Cali where I live, smog inspection is a pain, and a lot of people have stopped working on cars older than 2000 year. My point on this is, if you are paying someone to do it, make sure you trust them. And if they plan to do it correct, you are paying an easy 1400 in Cali. If you do it yourself, and can put the car down for a week(s) and take your time, that is different. I solved the problem with Mobil high mileage 10/30, and 1/2 quart of Lucas oil stop leak at every oil change. Got the leak to almost stop. Some days it wouldn’t even drip. Whatever people say about Lucas, people are entitled to there opinion. It saved me a lot of money and kept my car on the road for a very long time.

- replace the oxygen sensors as your money allows, 3 on the 1998 fed cars. You will definitely get better mpg. Mine never through a cel, but I replaced them all last year and my mileage got better. I believe 2 of these were the original ones( at 352,000 miles!), I think one threw a cel 4 yrs ago.
I replaced them with the direct fit Bosch items, worked perfectly until the car died.

- look online for the airbag warning light reset procedure. My seamed to come on at least 2 times a year.

- the dreaded knock sensor. You can mount this in a different location if you live in a state that has relaxed emissions. But, if you live in Cali, and probably New York, they will get you for tampering with the emission system. I relocated mine and got the cel to shut off with a new sensor and harness, but they put my car in the system as “ tampered with” and failed me in Cali. This is a big job if you have the engine like my 1998, the space to get under the lower intake manifold is very small. It may be bigger on the newer year 3.0, and maybe the 3.5. But on mine it was imposible to get my hand even close to fitting. This is about 600 to replace a 40 part. If you do it your self, have a garage or an area where you are permitted to take a car apart. Upper and lower manifold have to come off if you have the engine with the opening that is toon small to get your hand in. Even if you get it off with a swivel socket and a flash light, you still need to get your hand in to start the threads when bolting in the new sensor. My mechanic is super honest. He had a helper in the shop with hands like a 12 year old, he was able to reach in and change it, only charged me 50$. The knock sensor died 2 times on my car. And insist on a new harness for the knock sensor, it can be damaged from heat.


- last item is the egr valve and passages. If the egr valve throws a code. Have the passages in the intake manifold cleaned out and install a brand new valve so you don’t have to do it again.
-

I think that is about it. Overall it is a Very reliable car for someone who is into cars. But, it is easy to spend a lot of money at the mechanic. There are a lot of things I did to completely avoid reparing items. A mechanic would have charged me a boatload to fix the charcoal canister explosion I fixed. Not to mention the preventative maintenance I did with the Lucas in the rear seal and power steering. And if you want to keep a transmission for 385,000 miles, follow my advice. Drain out whatever transmission fluid will come out every 5th oil change and replace with synthetic fluid. 35 bucks every 15,000 miles is worth it not to replace a transmission.

flyingphil
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2019 12:16 pm
Car: 2000 Maxima SE manual

Re: Nissan Maxima reliability (Please sign up if you're new)

Postby flyingphil » Sat Dec 14, 2019 10:33 pm

Owned my 2000 Maxima since new. 140000 miles on it. Always did regular maintenance and ran synthetic oil in it. Had defective coils from factory, but wasn't told by Nissan. Also had a defective daytime light running module which stopped the headlights from working properly, but, again, nothing from Nissan. It took 12 years to figure that one out. Rust flecks started appearing in the white paint after 5 years. Replaced front springs, tie rod ends, and just recently, the lower control arms (...with ball joint and bushings). Just replaced the original alternator. The car is rusting very badly, particularly for this area of the world. I recently wondered if I actually got the car they used for the TV advert...where they're driving it through the salt water tidal flats at high speed ('Other cars like it...none'). It is now a rust bucket and our winter beater. Our Honda mini-van, bought at the same time, with 70000 more miles on it, has had no issues...at all...and minor rust.


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