New Control Arms ( with new balljoints)-not too tricky
New Inner Tie Rods-a little tricky
New Outer Tie Rods (easy to do)
New Sway Bar Bushings (easy to do)
New Connecting Rods (easy to do)
When you jacked up the car and moved the wheels with
your hands positioned at the east west location I could
see the inner tie rod moving in the boot about 1/4-3/8"
Decided upon a complete overhaul. NOrth south hands
position checks the ball joints for movement but it was busted
anyway. WD40'd most of the bolts to loosen first and let them soak in.
Car rides great now. I know it had a exploded ball joint
and bad tie rod but since the the cars had over 200K I just
replaced everthing on the 95. Went with Moog on everthing.
Replacement Control arm was $100 including new ball joint.
Couldn't justify just replacing the ball joint on the control arm.
Even though the ball joint is only $40, the push out tool looked
pretty cavemanish and I probably would ruin a new balljoint
trying to press it in. If your real good you could save some $
doing it. A machine shop might charge $25-30 to do it.
On inner tie rod you will need the tool that has the ring/crow
foot things. The tool from Oreilley's wouldn't work. Paid $100
for it at Pep Boys but I think Harbor Freight has it for $59.
You could get the tool over the ball part of the inner tie rod.
I had a friend help hold tool in place while turning-it can slip off easily
if not pulled "out" a little while turning it.
Had a$80 alignment from Midas afterwards (toe was bad out of line)
Midas on Parker off of highway 75 on the west side is a good shop in Plano.
Used pickle fork to bang off control arm ball joint.
but it went ok-just nervous about using the3# shop hammer on the ball joint too.
BTW I didn't have to remove the cv axle nut as the FSM says-used Chilton's
directions. Used a tie rod separator for the tie rod from Pep
Boys that worked pretty well.
Will look at struts next year-just didn't have the $
Hate to pay for another alignment though
Good luck
