nissan hustler (hardbody) lowering
nissan hustler (hardbody) lowering
how do you lowering the front of this truck? is there a way to rotate the torsion beam to lower it?? thanks
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XterraVersa
- Posts: 564
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:01 pm
- Car: 2002 Nissan Xterra
Nissan 350Z Nismo - Contact:
Re: (dalemac07)
Find the torsion bar adjusters. Lossen the top lock nut.
Put the front end on jack stands. May not be necessary since you are lowering, it is a ***** lifting with the weight of the truck on the t-bars.
Then you can crank on the torsion bar adjuster to lower the front.
We do the opposite when lifting our 4x4s.
Make sure to get it alighned afterwards.
Put the front end on jack stands. May not be necessary since you are lowering, it is a ***** lifting with the weight of the truck on the t-bars.
Then you can crank on the torsion bar adjuster to lower the front.
We do the opposite when lifting our 4x4s.
Make sure to get it alighned afterwards.
Re: (XterraVersa)
lowering a D21 by turning down the torsion bars is one way to do it, but a better method would be to purchase 'drop spindles'.
By turning down the torsion bars this can cause unwanted bottoming out because the torsion bars will not be under the proper tension. This can cause premature failure of ball joints, shocks and in some cases can make adjusting a front end a little more difficult because the alignment specs are calculated with a vehicle at factory ride height. Some places may not do the alignment if you are out of spec on the ride height tolerances ( PS ride heights are measured using the distance between the lower bump stop and the front cross member. This is why a drop spindle is a better choice. A drop spindle as no effect on this dimension.
By turning down the torsion bars this can cause unwanted bottoming out because the torsion bars will not be under the proper tension. This can cause premature failure of ball joints, shocks and in some cases can make adjusting a front end a little more difficult because the alignment specs are calculated with a vehicle at factory ride height. Some places may not do the alignment if you are out of spec on the ride height tolerances ( PS ride heights are measured using the distance between the lower bump stop and the front cross member. This is why a drop spindle is a better choice. A drop spindle as no effect on this dimension.
Re: (dalemac07)
PS Dale:Since you are thinking air bags, you should do be doing both the front and rear suspensions.
If you end up air bagging your D21 you will be removing the torsion bars because the air bags will take their place and the rear leafs too.
If you end up air bagging your D21 you will be removing the torsion bars because the air bags will take their place and the rear leafs too.
It's difficult to bag the front due to the lower control arms not being designed to take the weight of the vehicle anywhere but at the torsion bar point. Even the shock mounts tends to break off due to harsh abuse of the suspension being cycled violently.
Which is what most airbaggers tend to do with sudden drops and lifts associated with airbagging a ride. And depending on the stance of the truck, cutting into the bed is often necessary for a complete airbag setup with the rear end, especially if a c-notch is to be performed with slamming one. Not that slamming one is necessary, but it tends to be the natural proggresion of the baggers.
I've rarely seen premature failure of the ball joints due to a lowering of the truck by tweaking the t-bars. They're still in their normal operating range, as you can't cycle the suspension outside of the normal range with factory bump stops still intact.
Yes, you'll have a bottoming out issue, but only because the suspension is now sitting closer to the top of it's cycle, instead of being in it's normal spot of sitting closer to the bottom of it's cycle.
Alignment will still be an issue, but any decent alignment tech will see what the customer wants to do with the truck, and adjust the readings on the fly. If they don't, then take it some place reputable. If you're modifying the suspension, then you'll have to modify the specs to match.
Which is what most airbaggers tend to do with sudden drops and lifts associated with airbagging a ride. And depending on the stance of the truck, cutting into the bed is often necessary for a complete airbag setup with the rear end, especially if a c-notch is to be performed with slamming one. Not that slamming one is necessary, but it tends to be the natural proggresion of the baggers.
I've rarely seen premature failure of the ball joints due to a lowering of the truck by tweaking the t-bars. They're still in their normal operating range, as you can't cycle the suspension outside of the normal range with factory bump stops still intact.
Yes, you'll have a bottoming out issue, but only because the suspension is now sitting closer to the top of it's cycle, instead of being in it's normal spot of sitting closer to the bottom of it's cycle.
Alignment will still be an issue, but any decent alignment tech will see what the customer wants to do with the truck, and adjust the readings on the fly. If they don't, then take it some place reputable. If you're modifying the suspension, then you'll have to modify the specs to match.
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86HardBody
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2009 3:36 pm
- Car: 86 nissan hardbody
Re: (XterraVersa)
i have a hardbody and would like to know the best way to lift my front end with torsion bars can anyone help me?