Nissan 370Z P2A00 code

Nissan 350z / Nissan 370z technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
turtle !
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2025 7:13 am
Car: 09 Nissan 370Z

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For a while now my girlfriend's z has had a lean condition on bank 1 with a P2A00 code. No other codes unfortunately...

The car has 120,000+ miles on it, but the engine was recently swapped for a low mileage engine (roughly 30,000 mi). The engine was NOT a crate engine, definitely a junkyard engine that had sat for a long time. AC and ps issues have cropped up due to dried up seals, indicating that the engine sat dry for a long time. That is probably a factor here

Here's what we have done, in order (I think):
- listened for any vac leaks, there is no obvious hissing. we haven't done a smoke test or anything yet, so that may be in order
- cleared mixture self-learn value (disconnected B1 MAF, started and ran for ~5s, stop, reconnect). when we did this, the O2S data went back to normal and learned back down to a lean condition
- swapped the O2 sensors across the banks. values were the same
- swapped MAFs across the banks. same values
- swapped injectors across the banks. same values
- briefly checked for exhaust leak. no obvious leak, but I definitely need to check more thoroughly

Here is what I've got for data:
ImageImageImage

This is a freeze frame, but the lambda values, fuel trims, and O2s data are all effectively the same from idle to medium load. If any other data will be helpful, I can upload it.

The engine shakes noticeably at idle sometimes, but multiple times a drive at stoplights and such. It misses badly enough that you can hear that its missing when standing outside the car. The issue has been consistently worsening over the past 2 or so months. When the code first cropped up, there was no missing and no shaking was happening at idle.

Additionally, there is a weird rattling sound, that we believe is unrelated. It sounds like either cat material rattling around or a belt drive pulley with a shot bearing. It isn't a consistent rattle and has worsened as well. Here's an audio recording of it:
https://limewire.com/d/UvpiE#Kb0JfdDcia

Also, the voltage gauge jumps around considerably, which it did not do before. It jumps around by about 0.1 V. The needle never sits still. Important to note here that we had to put in an Autozone remanned alternator in after the power steering fluid leaking from the pump housing due to a dried up gasket fried the one that was on it when we got the car back after the swap.

I plan on taking a good look at any potential exhaust leaks later this week (and will also do vacuum leak detection afterwards), but if the answer is obvious or if there's anything else I need to be trying that help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by turtle ! on Sun Nov 02, 2025 6:43 pm, edited 4 times in total.


turtle !
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2025 7:13 am
Car: 09 Nissan 370Z

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I have been using the charm service manual for diagnostics for the code: https://charm.li/Nissan-Datsun/2009/370 ... rts/P2A00/

The fact that we are getting live data that isn't just a flat value indicates that the circuitry is working fine, correct? Or should I go ahead and do all the diag for electrical issues.
Also, the condition of the MAFs is perfect, they are super clean.
And, should we be thinking about potential PCV valve issues causing this?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 12083
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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P2A00 is a performance code for the front wideband sensors, not the O2's. The sensors are supposed to read 2.20V at stoichiometry, higher voltage means lean and lower means rich. P2A00 means the bank1 sensor voltage is higher (leaner) than it should be, even though the feedback from the MAF and the rear HO2S say the mixture should be normal. Bad A/F sensors and exhaust leaks account for probably +95% of occurrences. I took a look in Identifix and of 28 confirmed fixes, one was wiring and the other 27 were split about evenly between leaks and bad sensors. That jives well with my own experience.

Diagnostically, if it's a bad sensor you'll generally see a steady-state reading that stays above 2.2V and is pretty flat. If it fluctuates erratically without the throttle being worked, it generally means a pinhole exhaust leak. On Z's that's almost always from a crack in the vicinity of a converter support bracket. The simplest way to check the exhaust is to have an assistant plug the tailpipes with shop rags. That causes backpressure which will make even the tiniest leak audible.


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