NISSAN 240 RACECAR PROBLEMS KA24E

[kennymillsjr]

was runnin fine,until yesterday i tried cutting it on nothing happen.now i have it rigged up to start by push button and my fuel pump is cut in by a switch.all that quit working..i looked in my fuse box under the dash and found a blown 10amp fuse for the e.c.c.s., i replaced it but still nothing,is there any relays that would keep it from cranking?and even keeping the fuel pump from coming on.Also my ECU's lights dont come on anymore since this happen so somewere theres a blown fuse.i just dont know were to start

Modified by kennymillsjr at 4:56 PM 7/12/2009

Modified by kennymillsjr at 6:15 PM 7/12/2009

Modified by kennymillsjr at 7:02 PM 7/12/2009

Modified by kennymillsjr at 7:37 PM 7/12/2009

Modified by kennymillsjr at 1:24 PM 7/13/2009

Modified by kennymillsjr at 11:07 PM 7/13/2009

Modified by kennymillsjr at 5:03 PM 7/14/2009
Modified by kennymillsjr at 10:49 AM 7/16/2009

[Wc240]

first, download the FSM and stare at the wiring diagrams. take a break from that and chack all your fuses, and battery voltage. yes, of coarse there are relays that, if not working, will couse the car cot to start. Also, id check your wiring(factory and what you've done to the ignition/fuel pump) becouse you could have fried something, bad connection, etc. id deffinatly check the ALT 75 amp fuse. look in the fsm, start with the basics, then post up what you found/came up with.oh yeh, welcome

[kennymillsjr]

my 75a fuse it still good,i have been thru all the grounds and wires..before it screwed up,every time i would cut the battery on i would hear a click coming from some fuse under the dash?i would like to know what fuse that is..i hooked up this THING that im not shure of but it caused all my problems..im geeting ready to put a picture of it on here

[kennymillsjr]

[kennymillsjr]

PROBLEM SOLVED 30 AMP FUSE BLOWN UNDER THE HOOD

[Vegascorbin]

Not to burst your buble but are you sure the problem is solved? Why did the fuse blow? Was it due to the thing you pluged in or did the thing damage wiring that will shor out again?

It sounds like your car if a full time race car. If so remember that the vibrations of racing will cause problems over time. Double check everyplace that you have wiring passing through metal, such as the bulkhead, and verify it is protected from chafing or being cut into.

If you run on a dirt trak (like we do) you also have the problem of moisture build-up and all that dirt that sticks everyplace.

Hang in there and have fun. Good luck and stay off the walls

[kennymillsjr]

ive got another problem with my car..i took it to the race track yesterday and i put the gas to the floor(i was in 3rd gear)and its like it hit a certain rpm and then it cut down to mayb 3,000 rpm...i changed the fuel filter and air filter and cleaned the sensors on my mass meter.and put a new tps on it...what else should i check???and my rpm gauge on mt cluster dosent work at all so what up with that?

[Vegascorbin]

I know it is hard to tell with your tach not working but let me see if I can discribe the problem:

Under hard acceleration the car runs great untill it hits about 400 to 4500 rpm. Then it acts as if someone turned the ignition off. Without touching anything, when the rpm drops to about 3000, it fires right up again and runs great as long as you stay below 400 to 4500 rpm. If you take the load off the engine, say slightly depress the clutch, you can baby the rpms up into the 5000 range. When the engien starts producing power again, it is as if nothing hapened. No black smoke due to excess fuel, no backfire as you would see in a lean condition. It appears as if both fuel and spark have been turned off.

This is a problem that appears to be unique to the SOHC and only when they have had a long life. After researching this problem for about 18 months, I have found 3 people that were able to fix the problem. 1 replaced his speeddometer cluster and the other 2 replaced the ECU. In our case it was the ECU. Our ECU was fine except for the cutout problem.

In your case, I would try the cluster first as you have no Tach.

Please let me know if this helps as I want to add to my list of confirmed fixes.

[kennymillsjr]

the picture i posted of the "Thing"i think fried my ECU...take a look scroll up its in this posting thats waht i hooked up that blew a green 30Amp fuse

[kennymillsjr]

what exaclty sends signals for the rpm's?i also tried a diffrent computer and ended up with a tore up car because of it not running right..so i realy need this problem solved

[Wc240]

CKP provides rpm

[Vegascorbin]

The KA24E does not have a Crank Position sensor in the traditional manior. "Crank position" is provided by the distributor. there is no sensot that directrly reads the crankshaft or flywheel.

The RPM signal for the stock clustor is produced by the ECU. Most aftermarket Tachs will just tap off the coil.

[kennymillsjr]

so what do i need to do then?i changed my computer but still nutn..i have a number 10 ecu.

[Vegascorbin]

If at all posable find a friend with a KNOWN good working ECU and swap that in. We went through 4 ECUs before we found one that worked properly. Trial and error and keep swaping until you find a good ECU.

[kennymillsjr]

well how about this...should i just put in a auto ECU?do you think that would fix my troubles

[Vegascorbin]

Only if the Auto ECU works correctly.Of course there are other reasions to swap in an Auto ECU.

It sould not hurt anything to give it a try.