OFFICIAL: NicoClub's Pikes Peak 240sx v. 2012 by FMR

[kenno470]

A few updates:

The power steering column is installed, save for the shafts going to the rack and the wheel. Parts for those two operations are being machined at the shop in Texas right now and should be here in a few days.
We also got the hydraulic hand brake re-installed in it's new location.



New handbrake location:




More soon.

[Razi]

Looking awesome.
So on that electric steering rack + controller, you can adjust the amount of assist it gives right?

[PEZi]

Yussur... Fully adjustable!

[ska69]

I totally dig such fabrication! looks top notch and just feels right!

are you going to run extra calipers for the hydraulic handbrake?

pics of the front tubs and subframe please?

[kenno470]

I totally dig such fabrication! looks top notch and just feels right!

are you going to run extra calipers for the hydraulic handbrake?

pics of the front tubs and subframe please?

Don't need to. It's a flow through master cylinder so it just sits right in the rear brake line. If you pull the brake while your foot is on the pedal, it feels kinda funny and will move your foot around. In this car we rarely, if ever, have occasion to use both at the same time, though.

Pics of the front frame and tubs will be coming soon. I am still working on the plan for how to fab the tubs around the struts, make them removable so we can service the engine bay easily, and not look like dog snot.

Picked up the steel for the new front subframe this afternoon.

[ska69]

cool! so you only have hydraulic e-brakes? no z-32 style e-brake? or just not necessary? I have no clue what the regulations are, just really interested in this build
what's the brake combo at front and rear?

looking forward to updates.

[PEZi]

The brake is a hydraulic handbrake. Basically, you pull it and it works just like the brake pedal for your feet, but only for the rear wheels. Pull it, make the car oversteer, then let go and it snaps back down on its own just like a brake pedal would return to neutral position. We don't have an actual e-brake that locks into position like a normal car. Pull, release... pull, release.... They're used more in drifting. The only time I would ever use this on Pikes Peak is if the car REALLY needed to get pointed the other direction in a hurry. It is also good for holding the line for uphill launches

[ska69]

sounds interesting so all the magic is done through the pedals & steering wheel?

[PEZi]

It's amazing what you can do with a nice setup on some MOTONS and a little left foot braking

[breadbox]

I wanna mess with one of those e-brake set-ups, seems kinda fun. I'd have to park on the street tho, my drive way is steep.

[PEZi]

Leave it in gear... as long as your clutch is good, you're set

[Razi]

Extra monies, but you can run this:
s-chassis-dual-caliper-bracket-kit-t534597.html

One for brakes, other for the ebrake.

[ska69]

can't wait to see it in action

[PEZi]

Just checking back in. Ken has the wiring harness finished up now and ready to go in the car. For those that haven't noticed yet, this is not the same car we had last year. This is a whole new beast and the new front end that is coming will definitely show you a little more of that. In the meantime... enjoy some wiring sexiness!

[ska69]

I am left speachless sir! Amazing art work! I just love those bussman/waytek relay panels
Please explain why are the wires are tied in a lanyard manner? would it be easy to troubleshoot?

[ska69]

oh, also what are those other black boxes besides AEM and relay panels?

[kenno470]

The specific twist is called concentric contra-helical. It is shown to increase durability (and strain relief) and greatly increase flexibility over just running wires straight. Downside is a bit more wire used (I'd say 20-30%) and the arduous task of running the wires.

You layer in opposing directions; a core, a secondary layer twisting the opposite direction and a third layer going the opposite of the secondary. When you lift up the harness, you can immediately tell how much more flexible it is.

Now, this is the first time I've tried it, and you can tell by looking at it. I'll get better at it. As for troubleshooting, the key here is to test everything out before you install the harness. As long as you have continuity throughout harness and everything tones out where it's supposed to, then any troubleshooting should be confined to areas other than this backbone.

The boxes from top to bottom in the photo are:
AEM Twinfire ignition box
Fuse/relay panel 1
Fuse/Relay panel 2
AEM ECU
Power distribution box (magic and very secret circuits in here).
Next to the PDB the small black square is a 75A relay that will power up Fuse/Relay panel 2 when I flip the ignition switch.

That's all there is to it. easy peasy.

[PEZi]

Back at it again... Ken has continued to be busy and we now have the new switch panel all ready to go. No keys... Push to start

[PEZi]

Just because I'm bored and new pics are awesome... here is the sweet update from the guys at Auto Science for our sweet donated head. Big thanks to Ryan Davis at Auto Science for getting the head prepped and shipped out to Dent Sport Garage. Ryan donated the head, did all the port work and had all the machine work done, which included a valve job and new guides. Thanks for all your help Ryan! All of the family at FMR appreciates it greatly!

[Razi]

Nice head. <3

[danshaz82]

Nice head. <3

word!

[kenno470]

TONS of cool stuff going on in this head. +1mm Inconel exhaust valves, through Bronze guides, +.5mm Ti Nitride coated intake valves through iron guides (apparently the coating disagrees with bronze...who knew). A few clever secrets on the port and pocket work. Ryan and the team at DFW Autoscience did an incredible job for us and we really appreciate it.

In other fun news: We got the last machined part for the steering column in from the FMR machine shop today. I'll get the steering column finished up this week along with the rest of the interior.

Pictures are on the way.