Newly Founded NICO Member
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DustynJames
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 5:07 pm
- Car: 1996 Nissan Infiniti Q45
Newly Founded NICO Member
I've recently bought a 1996 Nissan Infiniti Q45, I'm 24 and this is my first car. When I seen it at this used car lot in my city I knew I had to have it... I still need to finish my saftey... my list was brake pads and rotors, driver side day time running light, licence plate lights, and driver side fog light replace or remove both. Me and my step brother did the brake pads and rotors when it was -15c outside (i live in canada) and ive replaced the licence plate lights. Im having a hard time getting the fog lights off as the screw on each side holding them in is rusty as f##k. I'mcurious what the problem would probally be with my daytime running light?The weird thing is that the highbeam works.. and one time not to long ago i put a bogus plate on to get an e-test and it started working.. ive tried looking at the wires but they look to be fine.. i tried to find the relay to replace it but couldn't find it.. anybody got suggestions for me on this one?another thing im having a problem with is installing a aftermarket stereo ive read up on these forums about the whole amp on speaker thing so im wondering if i hook up a amp to my stereo will that solve the problem or do i have to replace the bose speakers....(i hope not) i just wanted to replace the stereo (new one with sd card, usb, and aux in) because my disc changer isnt working, i would really apreciate any help any yall can give meBTW: I will try to get a picture to post asap its forest green with tan interior
Re: Newly Founded NICO Member (DustynJames)
Hi DustynJames,
Welcome! Good choice of car. First tip I can give you is to get under the car and spray every nut and bolt with a good penetrating lubricant. Try to let the car sit for an hour after so it doesn't get washed off with road spray before it can soak in. Rust is a demon where you are and you really want to get the nuts and bolts ready to loosen for stuff like wheel alignments.
OK, before you take out the fog lights, try unplugging the wires and cleaning up the connectors. My right side fog light had apparently not worked for years. We cleaned up the ground and now it's fine.
Swap your headlight bulbs left to right to see if the DRL problem follows the bulbs. I've seen headlight bulbs fail and return to life several times before finally taking their last breath. Weird and stupid, but I saw it. If the problem stays with the left side, chances are you need a replacement DRL module (not sure how likely the DRL Cancel Module is to blame). I got one for my '92 at a wrecker a few years ago after my DRL's started flashing (I looked like a police car in pursuit!) and it's still working fine. If you do this, try to avoid a donor car with front collision damage or ultra high mileage. The DRL module is behind you right headlight and the cancel module is either behind your left headlight or in the left side engine bay.
Here's a link to a FSM to download.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1996_Q45/
When my amps went on the '92 Bose front speakers, I took everything out and put in an Alpine CD deck, 6.5" front (made MDF mounts for the doors) & 6x9 rear speakers. Sounded better than the OEM Bose (when that was working right) even without an external amp (still I'd go with a 4 channel or front and rear amps). I have to say, though, the original Bose in my '95 sounds even better. You can still find CD changers here or on eBay to replace your dead one. One of the members here is making some kind of Aux hook-up for the OEM Bose ('95 I think, not sure about '96). Do a search. I used the car's original wiring for speakers and head unit hook-up (with an adapter for the radio harness and the dual antenna's). I don't know if the A-pillar tweeters are Bose dependent or not. You can easily find the little cubby-hole shelf to take up the space under the new single-din deck in the double-din hole. I just got the Nissan Bose adapter kit at A&B Sound for about $20. Looks like an OEM or Pro install.
Cheers,Glenn
Welcome! Good choice of car. First tip I can give you is to get under the car and spray every nut and bolt with a good penetrating lubricant. Try to let the car sit for an hour after so it doesn't get washed off with road spray before it can soak in. Rust is a demon where you are and you really want to get the nuts and bolts ready to loosen for stuff like wheel alignments.
OK, before you take out the fog lights, try unplugging the wires and cleaning up the connectors. My right side fog light had apparently not worked for years. We cleaned up the ground and now it's fine.
Swap your headlight bulbs left to right to see if the DRL problem follows the bulbs. I've seen headlight bulbs fail and return to life several times before finally taking their last breath. Weird and stupid, but I saw it. If the problem stays with the left side, chances are you need a replacement DRL module (not sure how likely the DRL Cancel Module is to blame). I got one for my '92 at a wrecker a few years ago after my DRL's started flashing (I looked like a police car in pursuit!) and it's still working fine. If you do this, try to avoid a donor car with front collision damage or ultra high mileage. The DRL module is behind you right headlight and the cancel module is either behind your left headlight or in the left side engine bay.
Here's a link to a FSM to download.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1996_Q45/
When my amps went on the '92 Bose front speakers, I took everything out and put in an Alpine CD deck, 6.5" front (made MDF mounts for the doors) & 6x9 rear speakers. Sounded better than the OEM Bose (when that was working right) even without an external amp (still I'd go with a 4 channel or front and rear amps). I have to say, though, the original Bose in my '95 sounds even better. You can still find CD changers here or on eBay to replace your dead one. One of the members here is making some kind of Aux hook-up for the OEM Bose ('95 I think, not sure about '96). Do a search. I used the car's original wiring for speakers and head unit hook-up (with an adapter for the radio harness and the dual antenna's). I don't know if the A-pillar tweeters are Bose dependent or not. You can easily find the little cubby-hole shelf to take up the space under the new single-din deck in the double-din hole. I just got the Nissan Bose adapter kit at A&B Sound for about $20. Looks like an OEM or Pro install.
Cheers,Glenn