NEWEST megan racing coilovers 12/10 springs...

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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Exar-Kun
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just because you have no body roll or suspension travell does not mean your car is going around the turn any faster.

Also, on the wheel rate issue...wheel rate can be affected by a multitue of factors such as the inclination of the spring and shock assembly, location of the said assembly, suspension design, wheel offset, etc.

that being said, a full race (ALMS/IMSA class level GT2 or higher) car usually has a pushrod activated shock and damper assembly, not a "coilover" in the traditional sense.

back to the point,

"2. If so, cant i just adjust the damper to fix that? cuz i think so0o"

F--k NO. So the rational here would be to under dampen the sping, resulting in a smoother ride? negative. You'll just induce a lot of bumping around and cause the spring and chassis itself to try and absorb all the energy. You can over dampen the spring, making the damper do the spring work and vice versa ("stiffening it up")..neither of which is good, IMO.

"1. Will the super stiffness in the front cuz understeer cuz its so stiff?"

Yep, you go over the 7/5 smith said (My limit is 8/6, if you are running a full on race-car with custom R-compounds(not the dot legal ones...)) and not only will you be sliding the front around, but the rea as well. At least with the nice spliting of the rates, you're rear end might stay planted, or at least lose grip WITH the front...

A car handles well when the tire says in optimal contact with the ground, when its bouncing around over every small inconsistency or drive slip up (messed up downshift, etc) it's giving up a lot of grip.

Also, many people simply equate reduced body roll to a fast car..which is not necessarily true. Seriously. The major beinifit of reducing body roll, past a certain point(believe it or not) on a well designed system is for driver comfort(IE to not disturb or alarm them) and confidence. If your suspension is propperly designed to begin with(alignment, hieght, rates and tires)you don't need anything over 7/5 IMO (esspecially with the relatively light weight S chassis)..

a car is a complete system, look at it as a whole and go from there. 12/10 is all show. Sure it'll corner flat, well...it will slide by flat, no body roll for sure, but it won't be fast.

-Chet


turtl631
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Good post chet. I agree, and I think it sucks that so many coilovers marketed for S chassis are 8/6 or higher rates. I'd love some nice 7/5, 6/5, something like that, well damped, similar price to KTS, etc.

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BuLLeTdrift
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Thanx a lot Chet. Very good info. I'm going with 8/6 again after a long discussion last night. Your post just put me over the edge for sure.

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Exar-Kun
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Just for funny's sake

pushrod activated springs and dampers:

on the maserati competitions car (look behind the blue rods)



on a carrera GT:

.

-Chet

sleepyRPS13
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touge monster challenges you!! aka amuse s2000 260ps (2513lbs) /F12kg R14kg advan A048 255 all around.

sleepyRPS13
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btw gan-san owns a carerra gt

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Exar-Kun
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ohhhkay. Good for them.

F-1 Car 200kg/mm (or higher) torsion bar springs...what's your point?

-Chet

Bronze MFP
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sheesh, this thread makes me want to get a set of HKS "drag" coilovers (5/3 kg/mm). I emailed SPL, and they don't warrant the KTS dampers for springs under 7/5 kg/mm front and rear. Whats a person to do? 8/6 is killin me on my daily driver

naed240sx
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Bronze MFP wrote:sheesh, this thread makes me want to get a set of HKS "drag" coilovers (5/3 kg/mm). I emailed SPL, and they don't warrant the KTS dampers for springs under 7/5 kg/mm front and rear. Whats a person to do? 8/6 is killin me on my daily driver
Yeah I kinda wish mine were softer, but Im pretty used to it now. People just hate me cause I drive like 10 miles an hour on the downtown roads.

Zion8561
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I got 7/5 JIC and IMO they are on the stiff side of daily driving. That said, I love them. I am looking forward to getting some adjustable sway bars to cure the small amount of understeer. Might also be the tires.

Chasis stiffening is a must if you plan on getting higher rate springs. I have also found that underdampening the springs to get a softer ride is horrible.



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