What's up guys. Need your knowledge. I am looking to get Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit.
My questions are:
1. Can I just install these without needing anything else? Meaning a tune, injectors, or other parts etc...
2. I'm planning on doing the timing kit as well. My TT has 86k miles. Should I do the 60-120k kit or the 120K kit?
3. I'm looking to get fun power out of the car and keep it on pump gas. I won't be drag racing or anything else just a weekend car that's fun. I would like to achieve 420-450rwhp. Is this achievable with these turbos? I know I'll need to get injectors, ecu, tune etc.. but can I start with installing these first and do the rest in steps? Are there less expensive turbos I can buy to get the power I would like? Sorry for the many question new to this.
Thank everyone in advance. Greatly appreciated.
Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
Last edited by Rogue One on Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Revised title
Reason: Revised title
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everpresentnoob
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:29 am
- Car: 1990 300zx Base. Manual and abused by previous owner....
Re: Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
well cant offer advise as far as the turbos, but since your gonna be inside the front of it any way go for the 120K kit. Better for ease of mind than only doing a 60K and having something fail after the fact.
Re: Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
Thanks, That answers one of my questions. Appreciated.
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itsa300zx
- Posts: 1287
- Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
- Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5 - Location: up North
Re: Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
they are a larger than oem housing, that means 5 bolt dp are also required.
Re: Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
you can do the other steps first.
ECU modification ie. nistune or replace it with a modern ecu like a haltech.
rubber, bearings have a lifespan in years and use. with normal use you'll reach the mileage well before age becomes a concern. but since it might be a 20yo vehicle, go through it and replace the hoses, seals, pumps and belts and check the engine and transmission mounts.
since you're doubling the power of the engine, upgraded brakes are a good idea.
since its an old engine, a compression check is a good idea first and to inspect the valve seats.
modifications are generally followed in a series of stages. stage 1 being intake and exhaust diameter/flow upgrades. stage 2 including forced induction modifications. people get performance gains just with larger intercoolers and you will need that anyway.
yes you can get it cheaper by just going to an exhaust shop to have them modify your headers and exhaust to fit the new turbos or make an adapter plate for them. its just two GT2554R's. Im suspicious of the fact that it's 'based on the design' of a Garrett not specifically a genuine Garrett turbo and theres no compressor map for it on the z1 website.
ok so first of all, you're talking about wanting to double the air in the engine. all force induction does is increase the air going into the engine. in order to take advantage of that extra air, you need extra fuel. turbos heat up the air they compress, making your intake air hotter so you have an intercooler. but that stock intercooler was designed for half the heat so you're going to ping forcing all that extra hot air into the combustion chambers. and now you cant actually change the injectors without modifying the ECU or adding a piggyback.
a larger turbo has a larger mass. that impeller mass takes longer to spin up giving you more turbo lag. if you just ran it on a stock ECU and rigged it up without any other modifications you'd just have more turbo lag and the same boost. so it wouldnt actually give you any performance gains. the exhaust is self cleaning. when its idling it gets dirty, when it goes above 2000rpm in most cars it starts getting hot enough to burn off the soot. turbos however have wastegates. if the wastegate doesnt open regularly enough or wide enough it can jam and break the turbo. producing that much power, the oxygen sensor will be exposed to more heat and higher temperatures. they can cook and give poor readings so people often move them further down the exhaust.
there's a lot more to do. bolt on upgrade just means it fits without having to weld your own flanges or make your own pipes. its a $2590 modification that wont actually improve performance and could potentially break stuff without doing the other stuff first.
ECU modification ie. nistune or replace it with a modern ecu like a haltech.
rubber, bearings have a lifespan in years and use. with normal use you'll reach the mileage well before age becomes a concern. but since it might be a 20yo vehicle, go through it and replace the hoses, seals, pumps and belts and check the engine and transmission mounts.
since you're doubling the power of the engine, upgraded brakes are a good idea.
since its an old engine, a compression check is a good idea first and to inspect the valve seats.
modifications are generally followed in a series of stages. stage 1 being intake and exhaust diameter/flow upgrades. stage 2 including forced induction modifications. people get performance gains just with larger intercoolers and you will need that anyway.
yes you can get it cheaper by just going to an exhaust shop to have them modify your headers and exhaust to fit the new turbos or make an adapter plate for them. its just two GT2554R's. Im suspicious of the fact that it's 'based on the design' of a Garrett not specifically a genuine Garrett turbo and theres no compressor map for it on the z1 website.
ok so first of all, you're talking about wanting to double the air in the engine. all force induction does is increase the air going into the engine. in order to take advantage of that extra air, you need extra fuel. turbos heat up the air they compress, making your intake air hotter so you have an intercooler. but that stock intercooler was designed for half the heat so you're going to ping forcing all that extra hot air into the combustion chambers. and now you cant actually change the injectors without modifying the ECU or adding a piggyback.
a larger turbo has a larger mass. that impeller mass takes longer to spin up giving you more turbo lag. if you just ran it on a stock ECU and rigged it up without any other modifications you'd just have more turbo lag and the same boost. so it wouldnt actually give you any performance gains. the exhaust is self cleaning. when its idling it gets dirty, when it goes above 2000rpm in most cars it starts getting hot enough to burn off the soot. turbos however have wastegates. if the wastegate doesnt open regularly enough or wide enough it can jam and break the turbo. producing that much power, the oxygen sensor will be exposed to more heat and higher temperatures. they can cook and give poor readings so people often move them further down the exhaust.
there's a lot more to do. bolt on upgrade just means it fits without having to weld your own flanges or make your own pipes. its a $2590 modification that wont actually improve performance and could potentially break stuff without doing the other stuff first.
Re: Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
@Elecfus.
Thank you so much for your response. It's exactly what I was looking for. The car is running great right now with the exception that the turbo seals are leaking so the car is smoking therefore, I figured if I have to pull the engine out to replace the turbos I might as well upgrade them. So that was going to be my first item on the list but after reading your post it seems that it's better to almost do everything at once which for me is kind of expensive to dump that much $$ into the car in one shot.
Thank you so much for your response. It's exactly what I was looking for. The car is running great right now with the exception that the turbo seals are leaking so the car is smoking therefore, I figured if I have to pull the engine out to replace the turbos I might as well upgrade them. So that was going to be my first item on the list but after reading your post it seems that it's better to almost do everything at once which for me is kind of expensive to dump that much $$ into the car in one shot.
Re: Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
actually my mistake, theres no way to know exactly what turbos they are selling as 535's but apparently they're almost the same size as stock turbos but with better bearings. what threw me off is that they quoted the absolute maximum rating. they have less turbo lag but you can theoretically make 500hp with the stock turbos as well. if the only thing wrong with your current turbos is the seals, its only about $50 for a set. otherwise there are other options like a GT2554R BB cartridge that will fit your stock turbos.
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DCaff300ZX
- Posts: 4202
- Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
- Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified - Location: Tacoma, Washington
Re: Newbie with questions about Z1's GT535R BB Turbo Kit
As elecfus suggests, turbo upgrading is NOT a simple business even for a minor upgrade, and everything he mentions is true or needs consideration.
When I faced what you are facing, here's what the correct results were- hopefully I haven't forgotten anything:
1. Used JWT 530 bb turbos and 5-bolt DP's- $1,100, GREAT deal and work perfectly.
2. Z1 bb turbo oil line kit and gaskets- reg cost.
3. Z1 upgraded smics- Black Friday deal well below normal cost, $400-ish?
4. Kevlar timing belt, RameyZ idler studs, and Z1 120K components- $700-ish, includes clutch/shifter rebuild parts also
5. New 850cc injectors- $800
6. ApexiPowerFC and RB25 GT-R ECU, new boost controller and installation to make everything work- $1,800-ish total
7. New catback exhaust (mufflers, pipes, tips) on STOCK exhaust w/DP's, still has EGR functional and passes emissions- $400-ish
8. ALL new silicone hoses everywhere, all new engine seals, hoses and gaskets throughout, work to remove, replace/install/set up everything and re-install back in the car plus the fact I've personally replaced nearly every electrical connector and engine control device in the car- $5K-ish
9. Three dynotunes to get everything worked out- free to me but possibly/probably not to you, $100+ per run.
10. Three weekends running through everything tightening, fine tuning/dressing up, replacing the PTU harness for my final success, re-organizing for future maintenance- your time cost.
Net is 400+ HP and a GREAT sounding Z that works well, no issues at all and will do anything I can reasonably expect to do on the roads, and more actually. GREAT low end with the 530BB's...really gets your attention and scares the crap outta my buddy.
So yeah, save and get parts slowly over time as I did and do the work all at once, and preferably by a Z guru as I did even though I am VERY familiar with my Z and have done a TON of my own work.
When I faced what you are facing, here's what the correct results were- hopefully I haven't forgotten anything:
1. Used JWT 530 bb turbos and 5-bolt DP's- $1,100, GREAT deal and work perfectly.
2. Z1 bb turbo oil line kit and gaskets- reg cost.
3. Z1 upgraded smics- Black Friday deal well below normal cost, $400-ish?
4. Kevlar timing belt, RameyZ idler studs, and Z1 120K components- $700-ish, includes clutch/shifter rebuild parts also
5. New 850cc injectors- $800
6. ApexiPowerFC and RB25 GT-R ECU, new boost controller and installation to make everything work- $1,800-ish total
7. New catback exhaust (mufflers, pipes, tips) on STOCK exhaust w/DP's, still has EGR functional and passes emissions- $400-ish
8. ALL new silicone hoses everywhere, all new engine seals, hoses and gaskets throughout, work to remove, replace/install/set up everything and re-install back in the car plus the fact I've personally replaced nearly every electrical connector and engine control device in the car- $5K-ish
9. Three dynotunes to get everything worked out- free to me but possibly/probably not to you, $100+ per run.
10. Three weekends running through everything tightening, fine tuning/dressing up, replacing the PTU harness for my final success, re-organizing for future maintenance- your time cost.
Net is 400+ HP and a GREAT sounding Z that works well, no issues at all and will do anything I can reasonably expect to do on the roads, and more actually. GREAT low end with the 530BB's...really gets your attention and scares the crap outta my buddy.
So yeah, save and get parts slowly over time as I did and do the work all at once, and preferably by a Z guru as I did even though I am VERY familiar with my Z and have done a TON of my own work.