Newbie seeking help with a Cima issue

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SeanE
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2024 11:27 am
Car: 96 Nissan Cima

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Hey all,

I recently imported a nice '96 Cima from Japan with the V8 and was having issues with the intermittent stalling after startup. Runs (ran) well otherwise so I did some online research and saw a lot of videos about cleaning the mass air flow unit and went ahead and tried to take it apart but alas, it's not meant to be removed and cleaned or serviced apparently since I broke the soldered element below where the wiring harness connects....anyhow, I haven't searched a ton for OEM Cima components but where I did look yielded nothing so I'm looking at trying to use an aftermarket unit from autozone that is supposed to fit the Q45 from the same model year, made by duralast. Can anyone here confirm that it will work with my car? Or even better, does anyone have a source for the correct unit for my car?

thanks


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Q451990
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Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
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:welcome: to NICO! Could you post a picture of your MAF? That might point us in the right direction.

SeanE
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2024 11:27 am
Car: 96 Nissan Cima

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Q451990 wrote:
Sun Jul 28, 2024 10:30 am
:welcome: to NICO! Could you post a picture of your MAF? That might point us in the right direction.
Yes, good point should've put those in. See attached. The middle one is where I thought I could remove it and clean it by removing the 4 small screws, but unfortunately looks like I snapped off the three soldered elements from inside. Not sure why it has 4 screws there if it's not meant to be serviced or opened.
Attachments
IMG_2627.jpeg
IMG_2626.jpeg
IMG_2625.jpeg

fontana dan
Posts: 279
Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2022 11:10 pm
Car: 1997 Infiniti Q45
Location: Tennessee, USA

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Oof, you didn't want to break that piece. Cleaning the maf is usually accomplished by simply spraying maf cleaner through the screen, and across the thin wires within that plastic tube.
Can you describe anything about what happens when the vehicle stalls? Is it when the engine is cold, or at operating temp? Is it like the car simply runs out of gas, or are there other oddities that you notice to accompany it?

SeanE
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2024 11:27 am
Car: 96 Nissan Cima

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Yea, I was using videos found online about same year infinitis that had a removable piece there at the same spot where I removed the 4 screws. People were spraying two different places.

It usually stalled when it had just been started up. happened both cold, and after it had run for a bit. I'm thinking I should have gone after the fuel system first, but the MAF route seemed like it would be a bit simpler and easier access to try first. My mistake.

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Q451990
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Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
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So if it's like the generation before it, you get to the circuit board by cutting the silicone seal on the top of the box around the plastic cover. If you're handy soldering, you could try to put it back together again. If not, there are a ton of options in the aftermarket or used. It even looks like they're available from Nissan for about $700. The part number 22680-31U00 should put you on the right track.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/ ... 2268031u00

If it were me, I'd try to re-solder first - and if that didn't get me back to where I started - find a used one on eBay or at www.car-part.com

I'm skeptical about aftermarket parts.

SeanE
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2024 11:27 am
Car: 96 Nissan Cima

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Q451990 wrote:
Sun Jul 28, 2024 11:57 pm
So if it's like the generation before it, you get to the circuit board by cutting the silicone seal on the top of the box around the plastic cover. If you're handy soldering, you could try to put it back together again. If not, there are a ton of options in the aftermarket or used. It even looks like they're available from Nissan for about $700. The part number 22680-31U00 should put you on the right track.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/ ... 2268031u00

If it were me, I'd try to re-solder first - and if that didn't get me back to where I started - find a used one on eBay or at www.car-part.com

I'm skeptical about aftermarket parts.
Thanks. Yea I was wondering if I could somehow take that box apart and re-solder the connectors so maybe I'll try what you describe. I have a basic DIY soldering iron and nothing about that looks particularly challenging or micro-sized. In the meantime I sourced a duralast replacement unit from autozone for $150 that has at least gotten me back up and running for now. Unfortunately the car stalled out again a couple times after start-up since putting the unit back in so I'm guessing it's more of a fuel system issue. A local guy who has an R32 and has worked on and sold a lot of JDM cars told me he has found lots of sediment in the gas tanks of these older JDM cars and he suggested taking that apart and cleaning it out and maybe replacing the fuel pump and filter. On an on it goes.. {eye roll}

Ryantzer
Posts: 259
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 5:37 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45
Location: Phoenix, AZ

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Testing your fuel pressure would tell you a lot about what your fuel system is doing. A fuel filter replacement should be done regardless if you don't know how long the existing one has been on there - that's just basic maintenance.

SeanE
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Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2024 11:27 am
Car: 96 Nissan Cima

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You're probably right and I think it's time to refer to the guy who has worked on fuel systems. I'm not comfortable with that area.

Oh, and I forgot to mention that the passenger front window motor is not working either!

98_Q45
Posts: 599
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

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Not sure this will help with this issue but: I was having an occasional stall out of nowhere on mine as well: but considering I fixed everything: I was looking at the idle rpm: I had to get my idle up to spec after tuning the TPS sensor (one with the red plug, and the screw with the hole in the ornament engine cover). Now I’m back to idling 675-700 ish in drive with a/c on. Before, I was popping down to a meager 500/500 rpm with a/c on: causing engine to stall.

Just a thought, but it could be other items. However my stall was only apparent when engine fully warmed.


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