Reviving the B14: 1995 Nissan 200sx with SR20DET Swap

[Kiroshino]

Year: 1995
Make: Nissan
Model: 200sx
Trime: SE
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
Engine: SR20DET (W10 Avenir)



Mods

• JWT re-programmed ECU
• 3” turbo back w/ Apexi N1 muffler
• Hotshot FMIC (w/ bosch bov/recirculated)
• ACT NX9-XTSS clutch
• B&M short throw shifter
• GReddy Turbo Timer
• GReddy ProfecB Spec II Boost Controller
• Front Fastbrakes 11” w/ Wilwood 4-piston calipers, Rear 11” drum-to-disc conversion w/ Maxima calipers
• U13 Altima Master Cylinder
• Eibach Pro-Kit springs on KYB AGX struts
• 16" Enkei RS5 Wheels

I would first like to point out that I did not perform any of the mods to it and do not have a complete list of specific mods done or anything outside of what I've been told and what I can see. I am fairly new to working on cars and don't quite have the money or experience to pull off many of these things.

Notes and Observations

• T15 turbo spools freely
• Recently replaced fans and thermostat
• Incredibly fuel efficient. Gets 38mpg.

The Bad

• Shifter is too stiff, making it difficult to change gears
• Clutch line rubs and is prone to snapping
• Bogs down after driving for an hour. Need to wait about 1.5 hours before driving again
• Struts are blown, rear strut mount has fallen off
• Rust
• Hole in downpipe

Other Pics

Again, I am new to Nissan's and new to cars in general. I welcome all the help and support I can get.

[RED_DET]

Welcome aboard, glad to see another SR20DET floating around still. First order of business is to get that over heating issue resolved. Get either a NX2000 radiator, which is a 2-row and commonly used on the sr20det swapped cars. For even more cooling protection a twin turbo z32 radiator cap will suffice. That should eliminate your cooling issues. Unfortunately the rust issue is just common on the B13/B14 chassis. A little TLC and regular maintenance, the car will last forever. I have had my b13 for 17yrs and it has been turbo since 2002, still going strong, "knock on wood".

[Kiroshino]

Thanks.

How's the fitment for the NX2000 radiator? Direct bolt-on, need special bracket? Any suggestions of where I can find one, besides of the classifieds section of this forum?

Edit:

Actually, since I didn't get this car stock, I'm not sure what I have on it atm. Is there an online Nissan part number database you can refer me to so that I can cross check part numbers?

I've already started a WTB thread for radiator fans. Will any other fan from another car directly bolt on?

Edit 2:

Went to PepBoys and ordered a set of fans. Apparently, one is for the radiator and one is for the A/C. Not sure if it'll be enough since this is a SE w/ SR20DET swap, but the mounting holes should be good.

Also purchased a Haynes repair manual. Since the car was modified quite a bit, I'm not sure how much it'll help me, but it might come in handy for smaller items.

[RED_DET]

Fitment for the nx2000 radiator should be the same. I know its direct replacement for b13. Mishimoto sells quality aluminum radiators for a reasonable price if you want I can get you pricing. Look up part numbers for radiators for the b13 and compare part numbers for the b14. The engine placement is the same so the hoses are direct fitment between the two.

If the car has no fans now, that is why it is over heating. I use the 2 row radiator now with problem and the oem fans and it cools just fine. I may upgrade to the Mishimoto setup with their fan shroud as well since they are a lot thinner.

Not aware of a data base per say, sometimes I will visit courtesyparts.com and see if I can find a part number on their site.

You may try bleeding the system and making sure there are no air pockets. If this issue persists after you replace everything, then you may have a blown head gasket.

[Kiroshino]

We've mounted a large metal fan as a temporary fix until the fans arrive (next week). Power comes from a converter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket so we'll need to remember to turn it on every time we drive the car. Seems to extend the time traveled by about ten minutes before overheating.

I had bubbles in my coolant in my project car, due to a hole in the coolant overflow reservoir cap. The idle fluctuations on the 200sx, unlike my project car (AW11 MR2), don't go away after warming up. I do have to note, though, that the reservoir cap on the 200sx is a bit loose, and I really wouldn't be surprised if there is air in the coolant. I'll bleed it when I add more coolant in to achieve the optimum pH.

I'm new to turbos. I've read elsewhere that you need to warm up the car for a few minutes before driving and idle for a few minutes before shutting the engine. Is there anything else I need to be aware of?

I'll look into Mishimoto radiators if the car still overheats, and will keep an eye out for a NX2000 radiator.

CourtesyParts bookmarked.

Fortunately, the car doesn't show any other symptoms of the BHG, granted I'm not familiar enough with the car to tell if the engine has lost compression/power or not by driving it. It really does pull, though, faster than any other car I've driven. If that turns out to be the case... don't know what I would do. The SR20 seems to be a good engine, very popular from what I've seen. Not enough space on my parents' driveway to hold another project car, though.

Thanks for your help. I'm very grateful for it.

Edit:

More pics.

Rust/Bodywork
Crack on RR fender
Rust and scratches on RR fender
Rust on RR quarter
Rust on RL quarter
Rust on RL fender
Rot on RL fender
Rust in trunk gap (left)
Rust in trunk gap (right)
Rust in driver-side door arch
Rust in passenger-side door arch

Temporary Fan Fixture
Glove compartment with goodies

Bled the coolant and replaced the air intake filter today. Car still idles very rough below 1000RPM. Turbo might have some shaft play. Took a look under the car and was happy to see no signs of obvious rust, only poorly welded exhaust pipes that might be the source of the exhaust leak.

Noticed that the RPM fluctuates whenever I turn the steering wheel. Potential electrical problem?

[Kiroshino]

Just got a list of all the mods done to the car:

JDM SR20DET from either W10 Avenir / U13 Bluebird
SR20 transmission
JWT re-programmed ECU
3” turbo back w/ Apexi N1 muffler
Hotshot FMIC (w/ bosch bov/recirculated)
ACT NX9-XTSS clutch
B&M short throw shifter
GReddy turbo timer (does not work like it used to)
GReddy ProfecB spec II boost controller
Fastbrakes 11” front upgrade w/ Wilwood 4-piston calipers, rear 11” drum-to-disc conversion w/ Maxima calipers
U13 Altima master cylinder
Eibach Pro-Kit springs on KYB AGX struts
16" Enkei RS5 wheels
boost & fuel pressure gauges in glove; display on FP gauge not optimal

[nismo4life11]

That rust really isnt all that bad, I'd fix it up. Definitely a nice find wish mine was turbo'd when i got it

[Kiroshino]

Well, the car wasn't driven much the past few years (maybe started up once per month). My cousin garaged it when he owned it.

Just hoping it's worth fixing up. Going to try and figure out the mechanical kinks before messing around with bodywork.

[Kiroshino]

Fans came in yesterday. Installed and tested them out. They don't seem to come on automatically; I need to turn on the A/C before both fans will turn on, and they'll only stay on as long as the A/C is on. Not a big deal in the summer, but it might not be the greatest set up for the winter.

Also noted that if I drive the car for a while and shut it off (after idling for a few minutes to allow the turbo spool to slow down), when started up again, it seems to choke (idle fluctuates violently and shakes the car like a new driver using the brakes like an on/off switch) trying to go over 2000 RPM even after allowing the engine to cool a bit. For some odd reason, the boost gauge reads "10 vacuum" while driving (haven't seen it point to boost yet). Could that be an issue?

Edit:

I was watching the boost gauge as my dad was driving today. The car idles at 20 vacuum and drives at 10 vacuum. When the choking occurs, the boost gauge fluctuates between 0 and 10 vacuum. The car never achieves boost.

As seen in one of my previous pictures, there is an electronic boost controller installed. I know I saw instructions either on this forum or another on how to use it, but I'm guessing it does play a role in this.

[Kiroshino]

Checked the turbo: it spins perfectly with no scrapes or anything. Tightened the inter-cooler piping (some parts were loose), played with the boost controller, and the car moves. Didn't memorize the manual for the boost controller so I set the settings relatively low, but I did manage to achieve something like 2psi boost, which made a huge difference compared to riding with vacuum the whole time. Overall, this helped stabilize the idle quite a bit.

I still ran into the issue of the car choking after shutting it off, but it only seems to get really bad (aka won't idle) after I drive. It's possible that it is due to me giving it too much gas and flooding the engine, since it doesn't seem to happen after my dad drives.

Otherwise, the fans still don't kick on unless I turn on the A/C (A/C button seems to act like an on/off switch for the fans since I can turn them on while blasting heat), but the overheating issue appears to be gone. Topping off the coolant every time it overflows seems to have normalized the pH a bit.

Incredibly fun car on the straights. Since we're still using the stock tachometer, I'm wondering how hard I can push the SR20DET before getting near the red zone. Currently shifting below 3500RPM when pushing, under 3000RPM for regular driving.

Bringing it back to my cousin on Sunday so he could collect his personal stuff from the car. Maybe he'll be able to find the security lug nut wrench so that we could change the squeaking worn brake pads.

[Kiroshino]

Bought an infrared thermostat today and checked the engine after it bogged down today. Temperature ranged from 140*F to 275*F. Thinking either the thermostat or water pump needs replacement. Going to order and install a new thermostat as soon as possible and see if that's the problem, since it's more affordable and easier to get to.

While playing with the infrared thermostat, I noticed that one end of the catalytic converter was 130*F while the other end (engine side) was 190*F. My cousin told me yesterday that his catalytic converter was clogged one time, which lowered boost. Could I be having the same problem?

Double checked the boost controller today. Apparently, the peak boost was 0.76psi.

[Kiroshino]

Replaced the thermostat. Definitely was a part of the problem (can drive with the A/C on for at least 20+ minutes now without showing signs of bogging down), but the car still won't start after driving it for a while. The delay between drives is at least 1.5+ hours now, a tad bit longer than before.

[Kiroshino]

Going to bump this back up. Updated the first post.

Haven't done anything since I last posted here, but my daily driver is starting to disappoint me with its severe lack of power and its gradually waning gas mileage so I figured it might be time to work on this again.

I have two main concerns now:

1) Engine bogs down after an hour of driving and refuses to start for at least an hour and a half of letting it cool off. Temperature gauge reads normal temperatures, unlike when the coolant was boiling. Thermostat and fans were replaced. Still not completely convinced the car isn't overheating based on the fact the car needs to run for a while before having any issues, but if you have any ideas, please let me know.

2) Shifter is way too stiff for shifting. Requires a great deal of precision and strength to change gears. Will definitely have to check out and see if I need new shifter bushings to smooth things out, or if something is too tight or needs to be lubed.

I've been driving with blown struts for a while now, so it's not really a big deal atm. Tires are worn, but I have a new set ready to be mounted. Needs a wheel alignment either way. Understeer is the worst I've ever experienced, but that may be due to the aforementioned factors.

Contrary to what I may have said before, I'm looking to make this my new reliable daily driver. My current daily driver, a first generation MR2 (N/A AW11), has superb handling and is a blast to drive in the corners, but it's lack of power and waning fuel economy leaves a lot to be desired.