NEWB rb26 s14 please information overload

[isaiahrsoccer16]

Ok, it's storytime. im currently out of the states saving up my money for a year. should be getting back around may 2012. i was planning on just dropping a grip on a z and attempting bolt on after bolt on when i got back. luckily i got roomed with a guy who's into tuners. he turned me on the the 240 and i fell in love with the s14 (especially the kouki). i first just planned on rebuilding/upgrading the KA....but then i found out about the rb26/LS1 possibilities and well......might as well have introduced crack to a 13 year old with ADD. i have been researching what i can, but the internet over here is so slow (it's like you'r grandma's dial up toked one to the domepiece) so i can't get much done. please post help, ideas, parts necessary for conversion ,or maybe even a link to a full build situation. I have searched but the internet crashes every time i search nicoclub forums. So here is what i think i have as far as parts and things i will need.
RB26dett motor(duh)
RB25det RWD transmission
custom driveshaft
motor mount kit situation
wiring harness
tachometer
some kind of modified sump oil pan
do i need a new crossmember?
z32 brake conversion if needed (cuz i like big brakes)

i think that is all i have right now, like i stated before i am researching what i can out here with my time/inernet capabilities but i know it's better to not do a swap than attempt one that is not thought out sufficiently. so if you feel the need to flame me for being newb or asking to be spoonfed so be it, get it out of your system just please help. and i do promise that if i get all the answers i need i will create the most detailed swap documentary to date.....my wife is a photographer. thanks nicoclub.

[ralphsdiorama]

First piece of advice is that there is a RB section here on Nico with tons of information. This will help you get started: what-is-needed-to-swap-a-rb-into-a-240s ... 85294.html
Second piece of advice is prepare to spend a lot on a rb26dett swap. Most of the parts for my car were highly discounted and I still ended up spending close to 10 grand. If you are prepared to fork out some dough then my good sir good luck on a fun, rage inducing, merry go round of a swap that will be paved in tears. Just remember, you will be handsomely rewarded for your efforts!

[andy107]

10 is about right for the swap that is done properly, and you doing almost all of the labor. I don't know why anyone would cut corners and half a** this and that when they have already invested a lot of money on an expensive GTR motor. I too am doing a GTR swap. Spent all winter reading, writing down notes and printing out pages on what ever was useful information "don't forget the FSM". Spring came around and I bought a whole R32 front clip. After I started working on the motor, little did I realize that things got complicated and cost of the project was getting very VERY expensive. I have already spent 7 grand and its not even close to done. What makes it worst is that some GTR OEM parts from Japan are on National back order. I've been waiting 3 months already and now I have to stop my project and wait. Mind you that 10 grand for most people is just a stock RB26 swap into an S-Chassis with maybe some minor bolt on's if your lucky.

Do yourself a favor and research up on oiling problems for the RB series engine and the crank collar issue. Be prepared to add the cost to your list, to have these issues fixed. If you are going to keep the stock twin turbos you need a custom downpipe fabricated. If you can't weld or don't have the equipment, also add that cost to your list. Or you can go to Mckinneys and get their Touge downpipe for $550 bucks. Not sure the DP would work with other "swap mounts" besides their's. Upgrade your fuel pump and get a walbro. I've heard stories about wablro's so after looking around for something similar price range I ran into the Aeromotive In-Tank fuel pump. If your ready to buy the RB26 try to look for one from the R33. There is not much of a difference but the engine is newer and easier to work with. One good example is the modification of the R32 RB26 P/S pump and Crank pully. The HICAS is hydraulically powered by the p/s pump and you need to somehow block the extra port going to the unit. Or get the RB25 or newer RB26 p/s pump. Same goes with the crank pully. The R32 crank pully is too long and will hit the radiator. Swapping out with the RB25 or Newer RB26 pully will work. If you are really on a budget you can just get the crank pully and use your ka24de p/s pump with modification to the mounting bracket.

There is also a cooling problem for guys with the RB swaps. Some people spend a lot of money on good electric fans and radiator and there are those who manage to fit/use the stock fan w/ clutch, radiator and shroud in the 240 engine bay, and solved most of their cooling issues.... unless your on the track. Look around to see engine bay pics of the RB26. When doing your transmission setup or buying clutches make sure you know the difference between push and pull type clutches.

Now on to your oil pan modification. Sure you need to cut up the pan to clear the S-Chassis crossmember. But cutting the front of the pan to clear the sway bar and reducing the oil capacity in the pan without making up for loss volume else where is really not a good idea. It works but its your choice. You can use the front sway bar off an A31 Cefiro that will guarantee to clear the oil pan and still have room for the Nismo power brace. But that part is EXTREMELY hard to find. You can get an importer to find you one. It might be an arm and and a leg for a used one or you can go over to sikky.com and get a bran new, 10x thicker and stronger than stock sway bar that clears almost any swap beyond SR's. And still clears the Nismo Power Brace.

This is all of the info I can think of for now. I got a lot more notes on the swap but its getting late. I gotta go to bed. I don't mind sharing info but your best answer is to keep looking around the forums. I had no help when I started my RB26 project. Everything I learned was on the internet.

[isaiahrsoccer16]

Thanks for the info guys. yes all labor except fabrication/bodywork will be done by me. so roughly 10,000 assuming i already have the car?

[ralphsdiorama]

10,000 is the planned amount which means you can add another 2k for miscellaneous problems. Always have a safety net. You will more than likely be using it.

[andy107]

Thanks for the info guys. yes all labor except fabrication/bodywork will be done by me. so roughly 10,000 assuming i already have the car?

10 grand NOT including the cost of the car.... I will show you my list of the parts I've composed that is needed for the swap and rough estimate. Yours will be different depending how in depth you are willing to go in your project. Keep in mind that I use QUALITY parts. For those who say I paid too much or don't need this or that....F*ck off. I know what I'm buying. Thank you.

R32 RB26 Front Clip ~ $4500 Shipped "Average cost w/o front clip, subtract 1g"
RB25DET Transmission ~ $1000 Shipped "MAKE SURE YOU DON'T BUY THE NON TURBO RB25 TRANS, THEY ALMOST LOOK THE SAME"
RB25 SPEC Clutch Stage 2+ w/ steel flywheel ~ $650
Syko RB Motor mounts w/o RB25 Down Pipe ~ $410
RB25DET Crossmember ~ $250 Shipped
RB25 Engine Mount Brackets "goes between the engine block and Syko mounts" $150 shipped from Europe
Tial 50mm BOV w/ pressure spring and V-band ~ $260
Custom Steel Driveshaft ~ $400
Custom inter-cooler w/ piping ~ $800
McKinney's Touge DP ~ $550
HKS High Power Exhaust "Anything with 3"in exhaust will work" ~ $550
High Flow Cat ~ $250
Aeromotive In-Line Fuel Pump ~ $150
Koyo Radiator for ka24de "Inlet and outlet fittings are similar to RB radiators ~ $300
Flex-a-lite Dual Slimline Radiator Fans Pull type ~ $400
Front Timing Belt w/ Tensioner, Ideler, etc ~ $150
Sikky Sway Bar ~ $300
Rb26 OEM Gasket Kit ~ $150
ACL Race Bearings ~ $200
Rb26 OEM Pistion Ring Set ~ $100
ARP Head Studs ~ $260
N1 Water Pump ~ $200
N1 Oil Pump ~ $200
RB25 New Crank Pully ~ $100
Oil Crank Collar ~ $100
Oil Restrictors ~ $20



Go ahead and add how much this all costs. Mind you that its not including simple stuff like:

Spark Plugs
Thermostat
Fuel Filter
Radiator Hoses
Custom Heater hoses
Clutch Input pilot bushing
Oil Pressure Sensor "Must replace as these commonly go out"

Replacing worn/broken parts if need be, such as:

Oxygen sensor
Water Temp sensor
Intake Temp sensor
Cracked Vacuum Hoses
Igniters
Coil Packs
PCV vlave and hoses
P/S belt
Alternator belt
Clutch Slave cylinder
Clutch Pivot Ball
IAC Valve
Valve cover grommets
CAS Sensor

Now with most of the preventive maintenance stuff out of the way. It's hard to add some upgraded parts to your build without going over 10 grand. Imagine buying other stuff for the car such as wheels, coilovers, body kit, paint, suspension upgrades, baller a** Tomei LSD, etc.

You don't have to buy the Syko motor mounts. They require you use the R33 RB25 front engine crossmember to work with their mounts. You also NEED the engine mount brackets to go with it. Some people say that using the R33 crossmember is a lot stronger than using the stock member that other companies offer. It will be cheaper to go else where besides Syko mounts. I just like how the Syko mounts are closely designed to oem style and fitment.

Another cheap option is to use the Z32 transmission instead of the RB25. Price range for the Z32 transmission can go around $100-$500 bucks. Most of the RB Custom mounts are for use with the Rb25 trans. The Z32 trans is shorter on the tailshaft end. And it uses an external shift linkage. You can't order a pre-fabbed driveshaft from the DriveShaftShop.com cuz thats the length for the RB25 trans. You will need to measure up the length for the Z32. Also you will need to custom fab the rear transmission mount for it too. The RB25 just uses the skyline rear trans mount or you can use one off an automatic 240. The Z32 will need the front bellhousing swapped from the RB25 or Rb26 that has already been converted from pull to push. "Link shown below"

my-pull-to-push-coversion-how-to-t283159.html

The only RB26 skyline that has the push type set up was the early model R32 GTR's with build date before 08/91. The rest are pull type then after.
The final and last thing for using the Z32 trans is that the shifter location may be off by 4 inches towards the back of the vehicle depending on what motor mounts you use. I could be wrong. But anyways, I've seen guys cut holes in their shifter tunnel to clear the shifter. Or you can modify the z32 shift linkage + bracket and shorten it by a few inches to center the shifter and line it up to the hole. Or you can buy one that is pre-made and sold in FRSport.com. It's expensive and I've heard many complain that the bracket flexes during hard use and cause people to miss shift or grind gears. With buying the Z32 trans, its cheap and has the same internals as the RB25. The laber and extra small cost it takes to make it work might not be worth it to some. Unless you got a heavy foot that blows transmissions left and right, this is your only cheap solution. But in the end if you want easy. Just buy the RB25 trans for plug and play.

Sometime this week I'll post some of the web links I used to reference my build from. I have a lot of them bookmarked but I'll sort through them and post it on here.

[isaiahrsoccer16]

thanks so much andy. lots of really good info. looks like i still have tons of research to do but hey it's all part of the fun right. and any links would be very much appreciated.

[Morph]

If this is your 1st swap please dont. And the 10k price everyone is throwing around is if everthing goes perfect, this is NOT an easy swap that can be done in a weekend like an Sr/Ka-T/Lesser RB swap. This is going to take some serious time and money.

Judging by your post your excited...which is great but can bite off more than you can chew. Start off small and work your way up, going for broke from jump street is asking for failure.

Start by going through some of the more serious builds here see what kind of $$$ they have involved in parts alone then factor in labor, and the fact most of them have a few under their belt and know what to expect.

Not trying to be a downer but, hate to see you buy some of this stuff and realize you are in way over your head.

[isaiahrsoccer16]

duly noted and granted it is my first full swap....but this will be my roomies 4th rb swap. his first 26 but hey gotta do it sometime. basically i have the capitol and need/want to learn. he has the experience and it's like his wet dream to put a 26 in a 240 so we both get what we want....plus if between the both of us we manage to screw it up i have a whole platoon of gearhead army mechanics i can call. i realize this is like a 3rd grade finger painter going for the mona lisa but if i can pull it off it will be pretty friggin rewarding....imo. thanks for the concern and forewarning though

[Morph]

LOL finger painting the Mona Lisa LOL awesome. No prob man, keep us updated and good luck.