Newb questions - whats missing, needed or can be removed?

[agent4573]

I'm doing a sandrail build and picked up a Z32 N/A motor for the project. It came with what appears to be every sensor needed, cutoff exhaust right behind the O2 sensors, and the ECU. I know I'm missing a few parts to get it turning over, but thought I would post here before I put up a wanted ad. I'll post pictures tonight when I get home from work, but for now I know that I need an alternator and all mounting hardware, a water pump pulley, and intakes/MAFs.

I'm going to browse local junkyards for the alternator and mounting hardware, but is there anyone that makes aftermarket mounts for the alternator? Do the water pump pulley and alternator share the same belt so that the alternator acts as the tensioner for the water pump or do I need to get a separate tensioner for the water pump belt?

The intakes appear to have a ~1.5 inch hole on the top of each side. I have a black tube that appears to be a cross-over tube for the intakes. I was just wondering if I needed that or if I can get rid of it and block off the holes. There also appears to be a ~1 inch hole on the bottom side of each intake. I have no idea what those are for, any help would be nice.

Since I have no MAF, its a coin flip right now on running a single or dual filter setup. Is there anyone that sells just an intake Y pipe that I can bolt a single MAF onto? The rest of the intake will be custom, I just need this one piece. Otherwise I guess I'll have to go with a dual setup.

For mounting, can anyone post a picture of where the motor mounts bolt up to? I'm going to be solid mounting this in the frame, but I want use the mount locations if possible and there are a few holes tapped into the side of the block. Just want to get the right one.

Thanks, and again, I'll drag it out from under the workbench tonight and get pictures up so you can pick out what I'm missing.

[Ace2cool]

I'm doing a sandrail build and picked up a Z32 N/A motor for the project. It came with what appears to be every sensor needed, cutoff exhaust right behind the O2 sensors, and the ECU. I know I'm missing a few parts to get it turning over, but thought I would post here before I put up a wanted ad. I'll post pictures tonight when I get home from work, but for now I know that I need an alternator and all mounting hardware, a water pump pulley, and intakes/MAFs.

I'm going to browse local junkyards for the alternator and mounting hardware, but is there anyone that makes aftermarket mounts for the alternator? Not to my knowledge. As far as where to get it, the classifieds section has a ton of part outs. I'd check there if junkyards leave you empty handed. Do the water pump pulley and alternator share the same belt so that the alternator acts as the tensioner for the water pump or do I need to get a separate tensioner for the water pump belt? They share the same belt.

The intakes appear to have a ~1.5 inch hole on the top of each side. I have a black tube that appears to be a cross-over tube for the intakes. I was just wondering if I needed that or if I can get rid of it and block off the holes. There also appears to be a ~1 inch hole on the bottom side of each intake. I have no idea what those are for, any help would be nice. That's the balance tube. It equalizes pressure in the opposite sides of the intake manifold. Also runs some vacuum systems. You'd have to look at the FSM to see exactly what it runs. I wouldn't delete it.

Since I have no MAF, its a coin flip right now on running a single or dual filter setup. Is there anyone that sells just an intake Y pipe that I can bolt a single MAF onto? The rest of the intake will be custom, I just need this one piece. Otherwise I guess I'll have to go with a dual setup. If you don't have a MAF, You'll need at least 12 inches of piping in between the MAF and the TB's. If I were you, since obviously you'd want to save space on a sandrail, I'd look into a MAP sensor conversion.

For mounting, can anyone post a picture of where the motor mounts bolt up to? I'm going to be solid mounting this in the frame, but I want use the mount locations if possible and there are a few holes tapped into the side of the block. Just want to get the right one. Don't really have a picture, but they go under the exhaust manifolds. Check the FSM for better IPB's.

Thanks, and again, I'll drag it out from under the workbench tonight and get pictures up so you can pick out what I'm missing.We'll be standing by.

Oh, and be sure to post up some pics of the build. Hell, even start a build thread in General. I'd love to add a cool build like this to the build thread list.

[agent4573]

MAP conversion sounds like the best option, but before I start reading up on it, can you just answer this, can you run a MAP conversion on a stock or easily modified stock ECU? As long as a MAP conversion doesn't require a stand alone I'm down for giving it a shot. Eventually I'll be doing a standalone, but don't have the cash to drop on it yet.

[nissanfreak12]

MAP conversion sounds like the best option, but before I start reading up on it, can you just answer this, can you run a MAP conversion on a stock or easily modified stock ECU? As long as a MAP conversion doesn't require a stand alone I'm down for giving it a shot. Eventually I'll be doing a standalone, but don't have the cash to drop on it yet.

More or less you will need a stand-alone. HKS did make a vein controller that made use of a MAP sensor vs a MAF. They even had pigtails that mounted into the wiring, but finding one is going to be a problem. One of the guys on ProjectZ32 had one for sale, but it sold within the hour. Ill see if I can find the link and maybe some insight on this controller. Its called a HKS VPC(vein pressure converter). Good Luck.

[Ace2cool]

Yep, that's what I was thinking of.

I mean, if money is an object, I'd just try and utilize the stock MAF. It'd be the simplest way. I didn't know what your budget was. The only real option left for MAP converting the Z32 is Megasquirt, and for that you're looking at about $700, not counting the sensors, but that's for full Engine Management and tuning.

[agent4573]

Eventually I'm going to add a megasquirt, but thats planned for about 2-3 years from now. I figure its going to take me at least a year to build this thing and I want to run it in stock form for at least a year to get all the other kinks out of it. I'll most likely convert to MAP then since I'll rebuilding for turbos and need a stand alone ECU then anyway. Anyway, here are some pictures. The thing is covered with dust. We live in the desert and the guy had it in a connex for the last year or two. One harness looks to be just the engine stuff. The other harness looks to be a spare engine harness with more stuff in it but it has a few broken connectors, mainly the ecu connector is smashed and half missing. No flywheel, but I haven't figured out what flywheel/clutch combo I have to run yet to bolt this up to a Mendeola 2d transmission with the adapter plate. Looks to have block off plates for the underside of the intake. So what else can I get rid of and still make it run? Also, in the one picture there's like 10 holes in the side of the block. Which one is the best to use as the motor mount? Thanks guys.

[Ace2cool]

Yeah, that's technically an ECU pigtail you've got there. That thing is rough looking with all the exposed wires.

One thing I noticed right off the bat is you have the old silver style PTU. I'm not sure if you can still pull it off, but Nissan had a recall on those where you brought your old PTU in, and they'd swap you for a new style and a pigtail harness with which to connect it.

Having the old style PTU, I'd almost guarantee you have the old style injectors as well, which are prone to early failure due to ethanol. The fact the spare harness has round connectors on it furthers my thinking it's old style injectors.

A/C compressor is already gone, so no need to mention that.

Here's a pic of a performance mount, to give you an idea of how stuff fits together. The forward holes are the mounts for the A/C compressor.

I couldn't for the life of me find a good pic of a stock mount and bracket.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Stock motor mount & bracket:

[agent4573]

In the picture with the blue wire harness end, there is a black connector over to the right by itself. It has 4 or 5 wide flat pins in it. What does that go to? Its all smashed up and the pins are all bent.

EDIT* Called Nissan, the recall is still open on the PTU, but since I only have a motor and no VIN to go with it, they can't put it in their system. I'll try to get it running with the current PTU and know that if it starts acting up once it gets hot I'll have to drop some $$$ to replace it.

[t.mcginley.jr]

The connector in that pic you're talking about LOOKS like the one that plugs into the CAS but it's kinda hard to tell.

Here's a new style used PTU (they don't go bad nearly as much) with the harness for $24:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300zx-ignitor-c ... 74&vxp=mtr

[agent4573]

Since I'm not running a heater, is there any way to easiliy bypass the heater feed and heater return lines? Can I block these off at the head or should I just install a line that connects the two together? As you can see in the picture I posted before, I don't have either of the standoff tubes so I would have to either buy them to run a line, or make some sort of block-off plate for them.

[Ace2cool]

Just loop them together with a small "U" shaped piece of hose.

[agent4573]

I would like to remove as much extra stuff as possible from the motor, so is there any damage that will results if i just remove this tube and cap it off at the thermostat housing?