New Z32 owner. Few questions

[Recian]

So I picked up this car from the dealer I work at. I've owned nissans for years and this is my 2nd Z. First was a 280z. Someone traded it in and it's on of the nicest 300zx's I've driven. It's completely stock exept for a nice aftermarket radio and a jim wolf pop off air filter. Also everything works exept the antenna, it's cord is broken but motor works. Ayone know if there's a source for new antennas?
I have a few questions.
I know the car has security. The light flashes and I've set the alarm off once. Can a fob be programmed using the traditional Nissan method of putting the key in/out the ign 6x? If so which remote should I look for? Any pics?
Second is an issue with heat. The heat isn't really warm. I have to set the temp to 90 then turn the system on to get heat or it'll stay stuck on a/c and occasionally it'll die out if I set the temp down to say 80/85. I'm wondering if it's a sticking actuator or a bubble in the cooling system. The car did blow a hose recently and I didn't see a bleeder on it anywhere for coolant system. Wanted to know if there are any common issues before I dig too deep. I didn't check the heat before the hose issue. It was the lack of heat that led me to finding the hose since the car almost overheated and at that time it came and went but blew very hot when it was working.

Here's a few pics.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Not sure about security programming, but check this out: http://z32.wikispaces.com/Theft+Warning+System

Weak heat could mean your heater core is leaking. Feel around the center console down by by the gas pedal and in the same area on the passenger side. If its wet, your heater core is likely leaking, a common issue.
http://z32.wikispaces.com/Heater+Core

There's also something deep down in the dash that controls whether you're getting heat or cold, that sounds like it could also be at play. It's much worse to get to.

[Recian]

Ok they don't mention a remote just arm the alarm by locking doors with a key. I'll look into the core this afternoon. I'll make sure the inlet/outlets are the right temp before digging too deep. Havent noticed coolant or a smell in the car.

[Ziggy1621]

Welcome! And nice Z!

[DCaff300ZX]

Welcome!
Sorry no help with the security as I previously had mine removed from my NA by the installer when I bought a better system that could remote start and such.
BUT, also from my NA days I am willing to bet that your heater core is plugged at the outlet nozzle as mine was, and will eventually spring a leak (causing overheats), if it already isn't weeping slowly already as I found mine was for quite some time before the eventual failure. When I replaced it I was able to see that some silicone and other debris had collected at the nozzle and it was corroding.
My clue was your mention of the lack of heat problem, as with little hot water getting into the system there wasn't much heat to go around when it got cold in the cabin.
Unfortunately there is no test I know of to find out if this is the case other than replacement which if you DIY is a pretty difficult job but not impossible, and expensive to have someone else do.
Hope this helps!

[Recian]

I'm actually leaning towards the actuator. Here's an update and my reasoning as to why. Also, the car has 84k miles and was garage kept it's whole life and only driven in nice weather. (YOu'll only need a/c in nice weather hence the actuator doesn't get used) The cooling system is in pretty good shape. No rust inside the block and coolant was almost perfect mixture. The wiki makes the core look pretty easy. Very similar to the Chrysler 300's.
I did a timing belt, all seals, tensioner etc. on the car since I have no history on maintenance. I don't trust it. It was super easy and only took a couple hours in the yard. I'll take this over a 3000gt anyday. I did all Nissan parts, replaced the 2 hoses above the thermostat. One had a pinhole and they both were swollen. This was allowing coolant seepage and air into the system. Also doing so the thermostat had corroded around the wobble valve. I noticed the car took awhile to warm up now it takes less than 1 mile of driving to get to operating temp Guess what. Now I've got hot water in/out on the heater core Noticed an improvement but still slow to switch to heat unless the system is turned to 90 then turned on and it'll go straight to hot and same thing for 60, gota turn off, adjust temp and turn on. When I get to work in the mornings I"ll sit and listen to the radio for a few mins and play with the temp getting it to change from hot to cold and the more I do it the better it works as I make that actuator work. I think if I keep doing it it'll eventually free up and work good.