New Turbo!!!(not56ksafe)

[kapower06]

Hey everyone, Just updating you all on the new turbo from Dee, the ssac manifold and the install.

First, The install. 1.Remove heatshields, all intake piping, and hotside intercooler piping. 2.Unbolt 02 housing from turbo.3.Loosen oil feed from motor. 4.Loosen oil drain from oil pan and/or turbo if accessible.5.Remove water feed line completely from block and turbo.6.Loosen water return line from intake manifold and the back of the head.7.Unbolt BMC (brake master cylinder) and lay it on top of the studs. 8.Unbolt the manifold from the head. Carefully remove turbo as to not bend any lines too much (kink!). You will scrape your knuckles and cuss alot, maybe even bleed. Dont expect it to only take an hour or two if its your first time.

Next, Bolt the new turbo onto the mani. Bolt the water return line onto turbo. Then loosely tighten the oil feed line, make sure its loose enough to move it around and postition it correctely.Next, attach the oil drain tube on to the turbo. I had to chop about a 2" section out of the drain tube because the ssac mani placed the turbo at more of an angle. Put the whole assembly back onto the head. This is where its important to have the BMC unbolted and outta the way. Its impossible to fit it in with out unbolting it. Put a few nuts on the studs to hold the mani onto the head. Then start attaching the anncillary lines. Make sure to put the water feed back on!!!lol... Next up is to start bolting everything back up. 1st the 02 housing to the turbo, then tighten all of the oil and water lines up, this can be tricky, lots of patience and short throws on a wrench help. Finally tighten all of the manifold bolts in sequence per FSM reccomendation. Now the easy stuff, re-installing all of the intake and charge piping. Make sure to bolt the BMC back onto the vaccum booster.

A few things to note. Always use new exhaust gaskets unless they are the steel crush type and they do not stick to any of the gasket surfaces when you try to remove them. Also make sure to use new copper crush rings on all the water lines so you dont have to repeat everything twice. Use a new gasket on the oil drain tube. I like to personally use Permatex Super Copper hi-temp exhaust gasket sealer on all of the gaskets after the turbo. Its up to you though.

Now for some pictures.

The old turbo ready to come out!!!

Waiting for the new shiny manifold and snail.

Shzaam!!! lol . All done. (if it were only that easy)

Now for a few pictures of the new turbo and mani bolted together looking hott!!!!





One of the best pictures I have taken...hahah. seriously the focus and everything was right. Soo clean.

Ok now for the Stock turbo vs. Dee t2/t3 turbo.

I had the stock ca t22 pushing around 14-15 psi and that felt pretty fast. This turbo on the stock wastegate (6-7psi) feels slightly faster by my butt dyno. Boost comes in full by 2800rpm with no boost controller, unlike the stock ca turbo with the manual boost controller which spooled up about 500 rpm sooner yet died off in higher rpm. The new turbo will hold its 6-7 pounds all the way to about 7k rpm. The turbo feels like its not in its efficency range at only 7 psi. Im waiting for c-rad to fix me up a chip to take advantage of the turbo, walbro pump, and n60 mafs. Im shooting for around 240-250whp with around 14-15psi. I was told the turbo will hold together up to around 22psi.Once the chip is in I'll repost and let everyone how its feels with the 14-15psi I was running the stock CA turbo at.

[BACARDI_DWB]

awesome setup!! looks very nice

[whiterps13]

Awesome pictures, if only it was as easy as one step...

[yourmomsrps13]

Next, attach the oil drain tube on to the turbo. I had to chop about a 2" section out of the drain tube because the ssac mani placed the turbo at more of an angle.

so the turbo is 2" lower,the exhaust is 2"s lower and the hotpipe is 2" lower correct? god i hate ssauto, nothing ive ever gotten,seen from them was spot on. glad it all works out for you. i had to modify cut and weld.

ps. nice turbo, i want the same one for low end power for drifting/gymkhana

[davidricardo86]

Looking great! Wish i had that same turbo. Sounds similar to what im trying to do aswell. Let us know how everything goes!

[CaEric]

What was the price of this new toy ?

[biosehnsucht]

so the turbo is 2" lower,the exhaust is 2"s lower and the hotpipe is 2" lower correct?

They must get most of the business from lowriders aka slammed civics

....

This thread useless without post-tuning dyno graphs! And what does that thing run ya?

[float_6969]

Just a little imput here. Maybe it's just my setup, but I've had my turbo/mani on and off the car AT LEAST 3 different times and I've never had problems clearing the BMC. I'm not saying you didn't just that some people might not NEED to unbolt it to get it off.

Thanks for the great writeup!

[dvd]

any more info on the turbo? so it requires a t3 flange?

[capwred]

looks good.cant wait to you get the chip to see how it does.

i notice that it looked like you was still running the sidemount.is this true?and if it is.its not a good idea to run over 10psi with it.but hell it isnt mine.

keep up the good work and undate us when you get the chip.

[kapower06]

THanks guys!!!! for all the good remarks. It really helps motivate me along with fellow CA'ers to keep on with the never ending quest for more power. lol.

CAPWRED-Yes its a side mount, No its not stock, its an sr20 ARC super smic. rated for 300 hp. I would like to get an aluminum cold pipe made.But the hot pipe witll burn your hand and if the outside temp is below 75* or so the cold pipe is barely warm.

DVD- The turbo is a stock ca garrett turbo with bigger wheels and ported housings. its the stock t2 flange.

Float_6969- I got the stock mani off fine with out taking off the BMC but, with the ssac it was no dice. True not everyone will need to do this but it will give ya more room anyway. lol.

biosehnsucht- first off I've always wanted to know what your username meant? And I will get some dyno numbers up as soon as I get the chip and get a wideband put on it. even though its still smoking black and leaving a dirty bumper.lol. so Im sure its still pig rich.

CaEric- The turbo was $425 shipped. It came with a brand new CHRA, cleaned and ported housings, and much bigger wheels. Its also fully balanced. the mani was like $133 shipped off e-bay.

Yourmomsrps13- somehow no. its not all 2in lower, I think that it just may have been the CHRA was rotated slightly differently then the stock and it made the oil drain tube hit the block and the bottom of the manifold-head flange was still about a 1/4 inch away. hope that made sense.

[kapower06]

UPDATE!!!!Last night I had an idea to to just throw the manual boost controller on there to see what happends with it on but with no increase in boost.

ok well two pounds increase which wouldnt make much difference right? wrong! it made a good improvement from 6psi to around 8psi +-1psi on both of those figures.

Its awesome because this turbo holds the same boost level all the way to redline. it initally spike or jumps to around 12-15psi depending on gear, speed, and throttle. then it quickly settles back to what ever its set to which is currently about 8-9psi, its more then one mark away from 10psi on my boost gauge so its hard to tell. After about 3k rpm its all business until around 7k then its next gear. The shift lag at full throttle is the same as stock (instantanious).

Last night on the way out to a party one of my buddies with a late model trans am with full exhaust decided he wanted to go on the highway. I said what the hell, ill try. its an ls1 so I expected to loose. It was an auto so that may have helped me. We started at about 40mph and went till I hit the stupid speed cut. Well I built boost before we took off and after three honks we went, I immediatly jumped about half a car on him, we stayed in that same positions until about 75-90 (top of third) then he was at my back bumper, hit fourth and was at the speed limiter in no time to gain anymore ground. He was amazed and didnt believe me it was just a 4cyl. lol.

I want to try 10-12 psi but dont want to detonate. Im almost sure it wont due to the black bumper,smell of fuel and the back firing that I can induce by letting off the throttle and barely touching it again, which is VERY LOUD, louder then a 9mm hand gun.

[biosehnsucht]

biosehnsucht- first off I've always wanted to know what your username meant? And I will get some dyno numbers up as soon as I get the chip and get a wideband put on it. even though its still smoking black and leaving a dirty bumper.lol. so Im sure its still pig rich.

Heh, I was just giving you a hard time. Don't bother dynoing it unless or until it's been tuned, no point. I don't THINK my bumper has gotten any more soiled since I fixed the FPR pressure (have a walbro 255lph high pressure pump.. delete 15 year old stock CA FPR, add Nismo, set correctly)

As for the name.. long story. Short version: 'Bio' was something some friends and I all had on our names at one time. 'Sehnsucht' I took during highschool or so, and never bothered to change it.. it's just my name now. And yes, I first heard the word thanks to Rammstein, but after babeling the disc title & etc (and confirming later with people who actually speak the language) I took it as my name.. it fit my mood at the time.

[kapower06]

Yeah Im most likely going to get an aftermarket FPR when I get the chip. Then im going to the dyno and seeing If I can muster over 240whp on the stock injectors and 13-15psi on the new turbo. I may have to raise the fuel pressure a little to keep the afr in a safe range, but we'll see.

I think I may ask DeviousKA from the KA boards If he would be willing to embark on an expeirment with me on tuning the CA ecu, he has recently developed a daughter board and program to use a launch(build boost with out moving) and a flatshift feature. This is on the sohc KA which uses an 8-bit ecu just like the CA.