New to the Z family, checking in from FL

[joezmam367]

Good morning all!!
This weekend I'll be having my first ever Nissan Delivered!
Car-
1986 Nissan 300ZX NA (non turbo) MT
2+0 seat configuration
( I'm asking for clarification, but NA is for non turbo correct?)

Found this at my GF's uncles house, sitting out front unmolested, as far as i can tell.
He'll be the one delivering it this Saturday, gave it to me for 1000 USD, so not bad i don't think

The cons-
the interior isn't completely wrecked, but could use some work, door panels and seats specifically.
Will mostly likely need the T-top seals, haven't seen it in water yet but couldn't find any water damage inside, he said it'd been there for almost 2 yrs uncovered
Sounds like a misfire, but his son had done the wires and plugs, so I'm guessing its a simple fix there...hoping...
clutch stick a little when depresses, assuming it needs bleeding or some WD40 on the pedal
Chrome on rims is peeling in the tire bead creating an air leak, hence the flat rear (will be sand blasting and blacking out)


the pros-
paint looks good, no serious scratches
the headlamps flip, and all lights work thus far
fires up a little rough from sitting, and weak battery
shifts through all gears while sitting
other than that, the dash works, it has the fancy digital one *so much future*, but I couldn't check the tach or speed on it, given its current standing
New tires as of 6 MO's ago

I am pretty mechanically savvy, this will be my first Nissan, RWD, and 6cyl though.
Don't know if it's a bad word around these parts but i was born into mechanics via *wispers* Honda

Any and all tune up, fluid recommendations, general maintenance tip are greatly appreciated
I'm extremely excited for this vehicle, and learning more about it, as well as keeping my hands wrist deep into it.

[joezmam367]

Talked to the guy delivering last night
He has no service history on the vehicle, no info on previous owners, and says the mileage reads at 213xxx

As i love the body style of this, and have always wanted one as my own.
I'm still getting it.

I'll do a major tuneup, the maintenance required, and pray it lasts until i can afford to swap the motor and trans.

I've looked at simply replacing the stock VG30, then finding a turbo donor, but has anyone got any input on this?
If there is a motor out there that i can swap in for around the same cost with a little more umph?

[evildky]

Welcome to NICO and congrats on the Z!
Yes N/A mean Naturally Aspirated which means no turbo.
Do the timing belt!
It's cheap insurance, if the belt snaps you might need a new motor. As for engine swaps the VG30ET is the simplest as it all bolts in, the stock n/a is 160 hp the turbo is 190 and with an intercooler and boost controller you can get over 250 whp before needing any additional mods. Any other swap is gonna cost you, there are the RB options, the TT has been done, SR's, newer VQ's even VH's have all been done but none will be as cheap or simple as the turbo swap. The sbc, sbf and now LS series swaps are fairly popular but again a lot more work and more money.

[joezmam367]

would the VG30ET run the same ECM as well?
I know i would have to replace it when i turbo it, but that's a down the road deal.

also the VG30E is the stock engine now correct?

I am considering doing a master rebuild on it as opposed to a swap, but i also want a little more umph ya know? lol
also, even if i turbo the stock engine, i would still need the donor ECM and have to have it modified for the options in the vehicle correct?

sorry for all the questions, defiantly wet behind the ears with Nissan jargon smh :/ I'll get there though.

thanks for the welcome, and i look forward to much research ahead. I've already got about 7/8 of the factory service manual printed, as i heard that its the most reliable as compared the hanes or chilton

[evildky]

Nissan engine designations are pretty simple
V= V shaped block meaning it's a V6 or V8
G= G is is the block series, as opposed to a K or Q
30 = displacement, in this case 3.0 liters, as opposed to a 35 which would be 3.5 liters etc
E = EFI All Nissan/Datsun engine originally equipped with EFI are designated with the E although some newer engine lask this designation as I guess it's assumed they are all EFI anymore
T= Turbo, TT= Twin turbo, R indicates a supercharger naturally aspirated engines have none of these

Many newer engine have :
D = dual cam, The VG30E has a single cam in each head where the VG30DE has 2 cams in each head
DD = direct injection
HR = High Rev, generally a hopped up higher revving version of an existing engine


The VG30ET swap come from an 84-89 300ZX Turbo, it's the turbo version of your car, the swap is a complete bolt in but does require a lot of work, the entire front subframe has to be swapped, as well as the ECU. Lots of info on this swap, search is your friend.

[BadQ45t]

The Turbo swap actually had a bunch of annoying issues you'll have to deal with, easiest thing to do is get a junker turbo so you can get the parts you need. There are plenty of posts around the web on that topic.

I have a 84' NA that has "only" 167k original miles (I really bought this brand new in 84") and i have just resisted the temptation to engine swap etc. It is 160 HP car and i have a cold air intake and nice cat back exhaust, which probably gets me up to 168 HP. I than did Eibach springs, KYB;s, fatter sway bars, strut brace bar (you can get Bilsteins now) with 16' rims and nice tires. The car is fast enough to be fun and handles really nice. Getting and keeping an older car running is enough...the stock Turbo was 200 HP, I know, I wanted one bad but at 22 the insurance was too much. Evil you got something wrong..but you are a god still.

[joezmam367]

Thanks for the replies!

I've been going through the FSM a lot lately just prepping for a full timing service. Courtesy had a bundle for just under 300, everything included.
I did get to take it out for a spin around the block last week. I swapped out a battery from my SO's car and it started up well. The clutch was soft, and the E-brake didn't fully disengage, but it was exhilarating. Also, didn't beat on it at all, not knowing maintenance history and all, but it was such a cool feeling.

As I'm close to finishing another project, I'm only getting more excited to bring this beauty back to life.

[BadQ45t]

The kit is a good idea if you're a solid DIY'er, the car in the day was complex but doing the full timing belt which I think that kit has all the toys is a good move. You should also consider investing in a water pump and make sure it comes with cam seals. These parts are all good to have on hand when you're in there doing the work.

Get it all refreshed from the timing belt side, than consider new distributor cap, rotors, spark plugs, spark plug wires and any rubber parts that look worn out. The engine block itself is very solid so if you keep everything updated you will get a reliable car that will give you another 200k.

[joezmam367]

the courtesy kit comes with water pump, the seals, all new belts, (alt, timing, pwr steering) all the goodies.
im a fairly good DIYer, but as i think more and more about it, im also considering doing a head gasket kit while i have it all apart, simply because i have no maintenance history on it, and i'd hate to do a timing service then have the gasket go and be right back in the thick of it.

I also have a poly bushing kit on my list that runs just over 180.00 USD.

I've heard about a ton of people around here, and other forums, swapping out the digital dash for analog, which kind of dissapoints me, although i can see why, the nostalgia of a digital dash, considering im only 26 lol, is something im not easily going to give up.

thanks for the reply, and heads up u/BadQ45t

on a fairly close topic, does anyone know of a forum that has walk throughs? as in more pics than the FSM?
just doing research

[BadQ45t]

There have been posts in the past on doing a digital to analog swap, but the digital dash is actually very cool If you're having problems there are very easy ways to get a working replacement dash and the control unit. That is easier that trying the swap.

[joezmam367]

I have yet to run the dash light test outlined on xenonzcar.com, but will be doing that sometime.
I really want to keep the digital dash, and on the test drive i took, everything seemed to work, the compass was off i think, but everything lit up as i assume it should.
I'm really uncertain what that other dial was for on the dash though, i think somewhere it was called an acceleration gauge?