new to the family

[zero_gripS13]

hey guys i just wanted to make a post introducing myself..some of you may notice my name as ive been a lurker for years, but im not a big talker, just a searcher lol..

anyways i got kinda lucky and picked up a swap for an offordable price.im going to freshion it up before it goes in so yea, but im excited

heres some pics

[anumeric]

Congrats man. Keep us posted on the progress with more pics of course , and good luck.

Wei

[zero_gripS13]

will do..

im going to fill it with some fresh oil and try to do a leak down and compression test..

if the result are good its just getting new pumps and timing stuff, hoses etc..

if there bad then ill be planning a oem rebuild

[ca18detgabby]

will do..

im going to fill it with some fresh oil and try to do a leak down and compression test..

if the result are good its just getting new pumps and timing stuff, hoses etc..

if there bad then ill be planning a oem rebuild

if it is already out....... then why not rebuild it?

[zero_gripS13]

cuz the rebuild will add another 500$ onto the build and delay install by many months.........

i really dont want this thing sitting for 2 years before it goes in....

i plan on pulling the main and rod caps to see how the bearings look...

one thing ive always wondered since ive never really rebuilt a motor,can i just put new bearings in or do i have to turn the crank???also can i just reame the ridge and hone the cyls and put new rings or is it best to bore and upsize the pistons ..

if i dont really have to get anyhting machined i might rebuild but if i have to take the block to a shop to turn the crank and all that jazz id rather not as thats alot of money $$$...

[Chris859]

On the bearings - you can just install new bearings as long as there is no scoring/damage on the crank... It is usually best to at least have the crank polished/checked out at a machine shop before you put the new bearings in - basicly smoothes/polishes the bearing/seal surfaces(around here polishing costs like $25 or so). If the ca18 you got is in relatively good condition, you will most likely just need to replace the rings/bearings/seals. The only time you would need to go oversize is if you had piston, or cylinder wall damage(such as scoring, excess wear or scuffing). Unless you have an excessive ridge at the top of the cylinder, all you need is to hone the cylinder, clean everything up really good and re-assemble with new rings.

[zero_gripS13]

thanks for the imput..

i might just go that route...

i just have wanted this engine for 2 years and cant wait to drive it lol..

hopefully my next pay check ima order some parts.

one thing i was wondering..

who do you guys recogmend for harness work..

id liek to get mine all check and cleaned and soldered.since its been mess with already by the previous owner id rather not mess with it, someone who knows these harness better than me should do the work..

thanks for all the friendly comments guys

[ca240sxcoupe]

just rebuild the motor....to oem standards at least......ive been driving mine for about 6 months without rebuilding it and i regret it so im about to buy a $1000 rx7 so i can rebuild my motor....trust me its the best thing to do .....the motor is almost 20 years old and you have no idea how it was treated for those 20 years.....

[zero_gripS13]

thanks for the imput... i think ill throw some new rings and bearing in there....

if thats the case i might just go ahead and start pulling it apart... i was waiting so i could leak down test it and ****...

[zero_gripS13]

update.. quoted form other forum sorry im lazy lol

[quote=""zerogrips13""]small update.....

well im a lil sad but nothing that i havent expected has happend.

i got the harness andd transmission removed (sadly unlike some other people nothing good hiding in there lol just a exedy clutch probably stock replacement not a whole lot left on it. good think i can use a ka24de clutch cuz ill just throw my Illegal Garage one on there ) form the engineand got it mounted on ym stand. i pulled some stuff off and the valve covers and im a lil sad...

the head looks clean as in not yellowish/brown/black/whatever lol (like my ka.. right alex lol)

but some of the left over oil in there is milky so i think a head gasket or something let loose... ... the turbo pretty bad there oil in all the intake piping but it doesnt have the worst shaft play lol... the heater hoses are pretty cunky ....this engines gona love me lol. can u say hot tanked lol.

slw240sx i think i pmed u about ym harness...im still looking for someone to fix it?

tomorrow i might take the pan off and take a look under there.i dunno yet but i know ima play with it some more.. manifoldds are atleast comming off.

[/quote]

[MeanGreenS13]

a rebuild wont cost 500$ itll cost more...

[zero_gripS13]

a rebuild wont cost 500$ itll cost more...

i said an extra 500 ontop of what i had added up for freshing up the motor..

only thing i was gona do was bearing and rings.... but now im doing those to.. doing it all and i hope it runs when im done

theres a first for everyhting :P..

qoted from another forums again...sadly this is the last update i have untill i get the $$ to order my parts

ok well another small update. the engine is in its resting state untill i get my parts ordered in so heres some pics..oh and the turbo is done lol oil puring out compressor side.. i mean like 1.4 qt. lol it just kept comming i stuck a rag in it so it would spill everywhere. intake manifold is going to be fune when i go through and replace everyhitng on there lol.. but i now have a short block.

oh and the turbo was quite a pain to remocve but not al that bad, but the intake was hard as hell to remove because i kept it in one peice instead of seperating it lol..(less to worry about atm. so i dont forget)

so without futher adoo lol!!! more crappy gay pics of my small *** lump.



my lump next to my brothers lol

[MeanGreenS13]

dee will probably chop my head if he reads this...

If your gonna crack the motor open... do something more than just rings and bearings....

I just pulled my motor back out because i didnt feel comfortable about pushing more boost on it because it was popping and snapping bad and my compression was rather low (145 across the board)... i only drove it for a week

now im going SEMI-Ape****...

ARP Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, Moly Rings, Topline Race Bearings, Cometic Headgasket, Greddy/Trust Timing belt, new oil pump and water pump, full radial valve job, clean it up, pretty it up, drop it back in.

im already 90% done and ive only had 4 days... valve covers are pretty, engine is freshly honed, all the parts are here, going to pick the head back up monday, new guides in there and everything.

Putting an RB25 Neo T3 on with 450cc injectors and a basic rom tune to get me around till i get my Emanage Ultimate and Z32. Cusco Solid Mounts, SIDE EXIT undercar exhaust... basicly... a race car... it should be done in 2-3 weeks.

Im shooting for 300whp right now... pretty acheivable number. Big goal is 400+ and LOW 11s

[zero_gripS13]

im doign full nissan rebuild

including

arp head and main studsbearingsringsoil pumpwater pumpoverhaul gasket kittiming belttensionersr t25 turbo knock sensorctsnew hoses vacuum and coolantka24de throttle body

the head is gona get new seals and a valve job.. check for leaks and warpness.

the blocks getting hot tanks maybe and balanced once its back together since i assume crank and pistons have to be in the engine for balance..(what else crank pulley, flywheel clutch???)

[zero_gripS13]

aww the days a dreams...

well today my dream cam crashing down...

since my last post ive been gathing parts and today was the day to do it all.....

so i get there all excited turn the music on light a cig and try to make me some space to work..

crack open the oil pan. heres where i nearly cried lol...

1) rust on crankshaft cournerweight. (must of been from bad head gasket....)2)mains pretty worn one had a slight very faint amount of copper.. there were mostly consistant though, thrust bearing showing copper both sides (is this normal)3) ringlands on #2 and #3 pistons cracked...#4 piston skirt has scoreing4)cylinder wall on #4 rusted coated, pitted, and just looks horrible

so i dont know what ima do...

i dont even know if it can be bored large enough to fix the wall and i need all new pistons... uhg i dont have the funds to invest. it makes me sad..

at this point im assuming the blocks no good... so i need a block ...and pistons.. anyone have a short block for sale for cheap ...

i might just turbo the ka all i need is a manifold. most of the ca stuff can interchange.

[r34 gtr]

zer...again

Two hundo

zer...in-md

Make offer.

Hard to go wrong here in the CA forum if you really stick with it. We have your back.

[ca18detgabby]

zer...again

Two hundo

zer...in-md

Make offer.

Hard to go wrong here in the CA forum if you really stick with it. We have your back.

just keep your cheeks tight if tim or TMS are behind you.

[zero_gripS13]

well for noits goion te back burner again im going to save some more moneynd buy another swap from jhot or soemthing or see what around come spring.. im not giving up yet dammit.

but i am pretty depressed over it.

[bentvalves]

wait dont jump the gun.

The block may just need a hone, (but we need pics to determine that) and then you could toss some OEM pistons in there from someone off the board. Are any of the rod/main bearings spun? If not, your crank is likely good. Dont waste your time with ARP hardware, just dont do it save your money, you dont need it.

Phil you suck, 145 compression across the board eh, what type of upper compression ring did you have in there? I notice you mention moly rings in your new build like they are some super ring. What'd you go with before some 60's era cast irons lol?

o.p knock sensors are expensive, what makes you think your is bad?

[float_6969]

The rust on the cylinder walls can proably be easily fixed. I don't think the block is toast. You will need to plan on new pistons (CP makes CA pistons in an oversize. They have them instock for under $500 shipped IIRC) and some minor block work. Have the crank checked out at the machine shop, worst case they'll have to grind it and use oversized bearings, not a big deal.

[zero_gripS13]

im determined... i fell off the planet for a while, but im back and i bounced back hard as ever so f**k yea.

right now block and head are at the machine shop. i received my cp pistons today 84mm 8.8:1 c/r.

head is gettingcleaned,magnafluxed,inspected,valve job, slight mill aka rebuilt baby..

block is gettingcleaned,magnafluxed,inspected, bored(with torque plate)/honed, new freeze plugs.

cranks gettingcleaned,chamfered,magnafluxed,polished. then everyhting getting balanced.

rods gettingarp installed then reconditioned.

then parts going on.

oem oil pumpacl race bearingsoem/autozone water pump (got em both)arp head studs felpro gasket should i copper spray if so what best method? oem timing belt tensioner idler/ gates timing beltfelpro gasket setSTRI gauges (oil temp/pressure, water temp, boost)hks turbo timerwalbro 2557mgte bpvs14 intercooler kitnismo motor mountssr20 t25g

yup should be a solid engine unless i mess something up - hopefully not :P

some pics[IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/Z ... stuff7.jpg[/IMG

[zero_gripS13]

update.

rods bolts should be here tomorrow.. needed 2 intake valves shoudl also be here tomorrow (said they looked like they had detonated and since 3 pistons have cracked ring lands i dont doubt it)

then i just gotta take em a tons of stuff to finish boring honing and balancing the motor. pics when i get it all back

oh to answer the rod bolts question he said u should always have the rods reconditioned after installing new bolts so hes doing that to

also i had a question about this peice i removed from the block that goes between cyl 1 and cyl 2 . its metal with a rubber gasket like thing and sits between the oil squirter and has 2 bolts holding it down. i was wondering what it does and where i can get a new one.. mine doesnt look bad but the rubber is kinda brittle feeling and i dont want it to break if its important ill get a pic of it soon
Modified by zero_gripS13 at 7:08 PM 2/15/2009

[ca18detgabby]

glad to see you arent giving in. looks like you got some awesome upgrades and will be much worth it.

[zero_gripS13]

i could give up gabby i was to far in so why not just keep diggin maybe ill strike gold :P

but i did buy another swap minus transmission has low comp on a cyl saving for another build since my original motor was salvagable.

im hoping this motors holds together it will not live a ez life thats why im taking the best precautions i can offord to take lol :P.

ill obviously be upgrading to a more agressive setup later but for now ill break it in on 7psi and get used to it then itll be 15psi once i get some 550s and a tune. but the motor will be ready for wahtever i can throw at it. atleast 450whp.i dont really plan on ever needing more than 300-350whp since this will be going into my drift car.

u guys and girls have really kept me motivated. thanks to all you guys.

[zero_gripS13]

well ok so it turns out .040 wasnt enough to clean up the rusted cylinder so there sleaving it and re boring it and honing it. whatever f*** it i watn this done.

1150 was my total price. ill have pics later.

ill get the block back next friday hopefully then itll be assembly.

i do have one question

does the ca18 require a step on the flywheel. cause they put a step on it when they cut it.

my ka doesnt have a step on it and im running the clutch from my ka on the ca am i going to have a problem?

also what a good piston ring compressor.

also ive read about the cps oil expansion ring being to long for the piston and they end up overlaping (from my understanding this is bad, do i just cut it or what should i do if i run into this problem?)