My progress thread!!

[mixeds14]

when i first open ur post n looked at the pics it look like we had twin cars from the back, haha, but then i see the s15 front end..
btw that front bumper look sweet, u need to primer it so it look better

[DinoMan]

Little update on the car.
The car will start but idles badly and doesn't drive too well. If i take it out i'm scared it'll stall out and ill be stuck. When i give it gas it doesn't feel like its putting down the power it should. It will take a bit for it to rev up and when i press the brake pedal in it will only go about halfway in then i cant press it anymore. If i try and hold the rev at 3k while at idle it can range from 1500 to 4500. If i leave it alone it sometimes idles at 1200 or 500 and in between. If left long enough it stalls out. I have checked everything i can think of and it seems everything is hooked up right. I am not a master mechanic as i am only 16. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Here is a list of supporting mods on the engine:
Stock s13 sr20det ecu
Stock sr20det mafs
new ngk spark plugs
isis intake manifold w/stock t/b
dc sport bottom mount turbo manifold
GT2871R turbo
circuit sport stainless steel braided turbo feed lines
hks turbo outlet
circuit sports 3 inch downpipe
greddy light weight pulley set (blue)
exedy stage 2 clutch
exedy light weight flywheel
Koyo rad
Cxracing intercooler and piping
Stock injectors

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FleVpSGskk[/youtube]

Dinoman

[badbob2121]

check your vacuum lines, it also could be your maf

but what really worries me is that your trying to run the gt2871 with a factory tune and fuel set up, what boost are you trying to run??

[DinoMan]

Right now im just trying to get it all running. But probably about 9psi. Everything on the engine came with it when i bought it off of the previous owner. After asking him, he claims it all ran fine on a stock tune. So i figured that it would be okay enough just to get it running and drivable. But after doing my research im starting to think i'll need to get some injectors and a tune. i have a 255 walbro in my trunk that i just haven't installed yet. also has a z32 fuel filter. If i have to get a tune for it i'm thinking of also upgrading to a z32 maf while im at it and add it to the tune.

[badbob2121]

i would highly suggest all of the above, and just to be safe.. never believe what the previous owner claims unless he is someone you honestly know

im in the middle of doing a gt2871 on my sr20det, and im running 740cc injectors, 255 walbro, a z32 maf and dyno tuning it (nistune board)

i know i was almost maxing out my sr20 maf with the t25 @ 11-12psi... that might be the issue

[project213]

Nice build so far. and id recognize those tags thrugh any blur haha. were in fla are you??

[240life]

as Badbob said check your vacuum lines (I noticed your PCV isn't hooked up) also have you checked the TPS for being installed correctly or sending proper voltage, after my rebuild I forgot to set my TPS per the FSM and it ran funky like that and shot 4 ft flames out the back after boost. Also you could try adjusting the CAS slightly. As far as a 2871r on stock injectors and maf...I wouldn't even attempt boost. You will require at least a ROM tune with supporting fuel mods to keep your AFR's in check and your motor happy.

[Ghettopoptart]

looks great man

[DinoMan]

z32 maf on the way. On the market for some 550cc's. But i'm trying to find a way around the $400 tune from rs enhalpy. They have a used ecu on their site with 2871r dw 550's and z32 maf tuned on it already and i was thinking about getting it. My question is that since it says that its tuned for the stock mani's, would it still work fine even though i have upgraded intake and turbo mani???

Also if anyone knows someone with a tuned ecu to these specs i'd be interested in purchasing as soon as possible. I want my car running

[DinoMan]

Nice build so far. and id recognize those tags thrugh any blur haha. were in fla are you??

I'm in the Pensacola area. you?

[240life]

I had mine tuned at e-mance for under $200.00 with real quick turn around look his service up on the web or you can find him on e-bay. I run up to 21 psi and get very good afr's and a very strong engine. Mind you I got a solid built engine to help handle that boost. I had mine tuned for 2871r, DW 740cc's, N62...I added a intake and exhaust after it didn't effect my tune, although I am now running stock exhaust manifold due to constant cracking of my tubular.

[DinoMan]

I heard about that e mance a couple times but haven't really heard much about it. Are they reliable? Is there anyone that has it and can give their input?

[badbob2121]

i wouldnt get 550cc, just get 740cc

[DinoMan]

I found some 740's for a decent price so i might get them. as for the tuning, i was thinking about getting emance because i have heard a couple good things about them now that im researching and they are pretty cheap. But i'm also hearing a couple of bads from them. Thinking i might take a chance and go for it. Do you guys think after the 740's z32 maf and a tune it would run better and maybe fix my idle issue? I had to get a new tps when i swapped the engine cuz the old one was broke and im not sure exactly how it should be adjusted. I moved it around a bit to try and fix it a little but didnt do too much to my idle. same with my CAS.

[badbob2121]

honestly its hard to diagnose a problem over the internet, i believe your maf is maxing out when you are boosting, but not sure about your idle issure... have you checked your iacv?

and tuning is something you really should not cheap out on. tuning can make or break a build. i would never trust someone's "preset maps" and tunes.... but thats just me and im sure some people's have worked fine and im sure some have failed horribly

[DinoMan]

Yeah i took my iacv off and cleaned it thoroughly with carb cleaner. its in a difficult place to adjust while idling though because its on the bottom off my intake mani.

I really wish that i could take more time and put more money into my tune but right now i don't have a car and its whats stopping me from getting a job right now...Thats why i want my car up and running so bad hah

[240life]

You should try this..I had this exact running condition after removing my tps. if you dont install your sensor like this, I can bet that the lever isnt set on your sensor and it is reading full open ALL the time.

If your having popping, stalling issues this could help.

Step 1: Remove the TPS
Step 2: Rotate Tps so the plug-in is facing straight in the air.
Step 3: Re-install TPS and rotate 90 degree's so the sensor is facing forward.
Step 4: Re-install bolts and adjust Tps Voltage to read .45V with the ignition in the "on" position, do not start the car.
Step 5: start car shut off and re-start.

....Step 2-3 are necessary to set the hook on the Tps with the pins on the throttle body, if these steps are skipped your ECU will see 5V (WOT) all the time.

[DinoMan]

As far as installing it goes, I'm almost 100% sure that part is right. How do i set the voltages? I dont have an fsm for the sr20det. I heard theres one on here but i cant ever find it...

[240life]

http://www.phase2motortrend.com/nifasemaf.html

You can get it here. just click the link and select the s14/s13 compatible link it will down load automatically. I hope this doesn't create a problem with the mods, but this link isn't another forum just a reliable source for the fsm.

[Speckid4]

I am really a huge fan of zenki's, but I am really digging that S15 front end. Looks slick, what bumper is that?
OEM?

[DinoMan]

I am really a huge fan of zenki's, but I am really digging that S15 front end. Looks slick, what bumper is that?
OEM?

Thanks, it is an OEM s15 bumper. 250 shipped from aishagarage. Good people with good prices. Products straight from jay pan.

[DinoMan]

Havent updated in a bit but the car idles fine now. It fires up everytime at sits at about 1000 rpms at idle. Now my problem is the temp gauge will go up and spike to the top when i can go up front and keep my hand on the radiator. the radiator and top hose are just a little warm while the bottom hose is cold. i took my thermostat out and checked to see if it was stuck close or something. But when i took it out it looked like it was just put in there and it opened and closed fine. i put it back in and still the same problem. i dont want to take it out not knowing whats my temps are like. my brother blew is engine because after his build he didnt pay attention to his temps and it overheated.

[DinoMan]

oh yeah and the fix to my previous problem was my MAF too close to the turbo inlet.

[DinoMan]

Fixed temp problem. Had to change out coolant sender unit to s14. Now having turbo problems :/ Not pulling as it should. When turbo is supposed to kick in its like theres nothing there? Still takes forever to build up power and at WOT i dont feel anything different. Any ideas?

[DinoMan]

Relocated my battery to the trunk and actually gave myself a trunk since it was all bare metal. Cut a piece of wood, stapled stock trunk carpet onto it. I think it came out okay. As for the relocation, i bought 15 feet of #1 gauge welders wire off of cableyard.com for about $2 a foot. Ran it through the engine harness grommet, put it underneath carpet and used the square ziptie things to make a path for it and make it stay put.

[DinoMan]

Car runs great now. Timing was off. Not really much to update with lol.