New to Nico need help, Turbo KA24DE

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skaterfromvt
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Car: 1989 240sx sr20 blacktop Built not bought 87 v8 rx7 fc3(50) 95 s14, 00 dodge ram 1500
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I just bought an 89' 2.4 ka sohc and since i bought it i have been trying to get it running no matter what i do i cant get it right...I have rx7 injectors and it is chipped

it has a t3 turbo with built in waiste gate (waiste gate has 2 ports on it) right now i just have the port off the turbo ran straight to one port on the waiste gate and the other port is left open

i have been playing with my vacume lines to try and see if that was the problem but nothing has seemed to work so far my bov works and i can feel the turbo spool but when it spools the motor starts to sputter when i mash the gas also if i do get into the peddal and and going pretty fast then if i stop quick the motor stalls out....so if i race from light to light or drift it stalls out when i stop....BOOO!!!!!

a few problems that im having

1. when i brought it to a shop they said it might be running lean....and that i should put a new fuel pump in because it is turbo'dI pulled the fuel pump and it was a walbro gss 341 182032 is that the WALBRO 255 FUEL PUMP? because i know that is what is recommended

2. I orderd a fuel pressure regulator because some1 suggested that... how much psi should i run? with 10lbs of boost? could this be the stuttering problem???

3. when the car isnt in gear i can rev it to 2400 rpms and then it spits out and the tach falls back down a little and i have to give it gas really slow so i can get the tach above 3 grand if i push the gas peddal to the floor it will just sit there and sputter like its missing or something

4. what can i do to get my car running right?

5. i had the head gasket replaced and it still isnt working right

I will post pictures of the t3 turbo and the waiste gate later if it will help with directions on how to run the vacuum lines

Modified by skaterfromvt at 8:25 PM 1/6/2008
Modified by skaterfromvt at 10:02 PM 1/6/2008


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WDRacing
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Holy crap...

Things I suggest first are pretty easy. Check all the intercooler piping and couplings, I bet one or more is disconnected. You need a fuel pressure gauge, anywhere around 45 is a good place to start since you have an adjustable FPR.

You need to have your O2 mixture checked as well, So beg/borrow/steal a wideband O2 meter or take it to a dyno.

Check those and report back.

Pull the plugs and inspect them as well.

WD

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Zippy69
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What are you using to control your injectors? List your whole set up so we can see.Don't worry bro, between the gazillion of us here, we can help you get straight.

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spooled240
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if i could suggest something, it's maybe the such-through mafs setup with an oa bov? Also check your fuel pressure w/ that new adjustable fpr.

also, I run 10psi daily with the stock fuel pump in my dohc no problem..

skaterfromvt
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I put brand new plugs in..and when i had it chipped i had the chipped tuned for the stock M.A.F all the intercooling piping looks good i also noticed that i have a "fuel Management unit"...but its not an adjustable one so i dont know whats controlling the fuel right now besides that thing

Is there a simple way to check for ecu errors? maybe a sensor is shot?

last time i fired it up...when i was giving it gas i got a pretty good back fire kinda scary cuz i just had the head gasket replaced....

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spooled240 wrote:also, I run 10psi daily with the stock fuel pump in my dohc no problem..
The S14 has a way better fuel pump.
skaterfromvt wrote:I put brand new plugs in..and when i had it chipped i had the chipped tuned for the stock M.A.F all the intercooling piping looks good i also noticed that i have a "fuel Management unit"...but its not an adjustable one so i dont know whats controlling the fuel right now besides that thing Is there a simple way to check for ecu errors? maybe a sensor is shot?

last time i fired it up...when i was giving it gas i got a pretty good back fire kinda scary cuz i just had the head gasket replaced....
You can put the ecu into diagnostic mode and count the blinks of the CEL and they will match the corresponding codes. Do a search for 240 diagnostic check.

As far as what I'd do right now if I was given your car. I'd remove the FMU first, since the ECU is chipped supposedly, you don't need the fmu adding fuel. Then I'd get a fuel pressure gauge and see what my fuel pressure is set to. An adjustable regulator is only like $45 for a Bosch unit and a gauge is cheap as well.

Then you really need to verify your air fuel mixture man. To lean and you're going to pop a piston, to rich and it won't run, in a bad situation you'll wash the oil off of the cylinder walls and score them, fuel will go past the rings and into the oil, sending fuel and oil through the entire motor until you spin a bearing and or toss a rod through the block.

So it's important to get the basics figured out from the start. Once we have the essential stuff known to be good, we can fine tune it for you.

Whats the entire story behind this car, leave nothing out.

WD

skaterfromvt
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Here is everything i know about the car....

1 when i bought it the person before me couldnt even get it to run right either same problems but atleast it moved a little bit more then now and it had a huge oil leak

2. also it was over heating and the cluch was shot

3.had big exhaust leak

4. and power steering lines were leaking

put a new centerforce clutch input a new radiator in flushed the coolantafter trying to rebuild the turbo one night i decided to just buy a brand new t3/t4 so i could be faster then my buddy

had the head gasket replaced and exhaust re shaved down

pulled my ecu and got it chipped

the guy that chipped it said he could only tune for bigger injectors on stock mafs so i bought rx7 injectors and put those puppys in he said they were direct drop in's but they were not so i had to buy new pig tails and then after i put those in it blew a fuse the first time i started it but then i replaced the fuse and it started was still having the no pedal problem(where if i gave it anything more then no pedal it would start to sputter)

one of the injectors had a small crack on the top but it didnt look like it would effect it to much (i do hear a clicking noise coming from the injectors (could this be it?)

i put a boost controller on it and i could not get a constant boost with it so i just pulled it off and ran the vacuum line right to the waiste gate...i brought it to 2 different places and they looked at the way i had the turbo set up with the vacuums and said it looked fine but i dont thing they cared if it was fine or not

ive put quite a bit of money in this crap box and i still cant get it to run right! its kind of a huge let down...my gf is on my back because i put so much into it...i just need to get it to run right for a month and then if i blow the motor no biggy but atleast i could show her the potential of it!

*****so i guess ill try and diag the ecu

*****and i will by pass the fuel management unit(or just wait til i get my fpr?(ill probally just wait)

****i understand what your saying about the to rich to lean fuel problem /\ when i put the fuel pressure reg in this should correct this problem right? if i run about 45 psi...also maybe get an air fuel gauge to double check

also when i first bought the car i changed the oil and 2 days later it was milky and it smelled like there was fuel in the valve cover (when i replaced the gasket) so i decided to replace the head gasket and the valve guides and i havent check to see if it smells like gas but..it did smell like gas before???

(thanks every1 for all the help so far)


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Try installing a stock ecu and see if it starts and runs. I think you have ecu issues on top of a few other problems. Check that oil to...

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spooled240
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yeah, the car will backfire a lot if the car runs rich so I'm guessing the fpr or ....maybe the injectors?! Idk man, it doesn't sound healthy if they blew a fuse the first time at startup.what i would do first:-get a fuel pressure gauge and make sure you have the proper psi reading.-swap ecu's:but make sure you have the stock injectors in (270cc's)-bypass the aftermarket fmu, maybe just run the stock one.

From your first post, it seems as thought the engine leaning out if it's sputtering and cannot rev past 3000rpm (typical symptom of a leaky ic pipe or bad mafs). But at idle it seems like it's running rich if it's backfiring and such..GL!

skaterfromvt
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it does not always backfire...it only back fired when i was reving and letting off and reving and letting off

I'm pulling the front bumper today so i can take a look at the I.C and see if anything's leaking around that

The stock fuel reg. was replaced with the fmu that is in it now so i wont be able to go back to that

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Well that's a HUGE problem right there. The FMU is NOT a fuel pressure regulator at all. It simply increase the fuel pressure when it reads boost. Other then that it just lets the fuel bypass it. The stock unit is always needed when running a FMU. That or an aftermarket one.

What you need is a FPR and a gauge ASAP.

Do not start or drive this until you have both.

skaterfromvt
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So correct me if im wrong...

I just have a FMU (no stock unit)

if i buy a FPR should i replace the fmu with just the FPR or

Should i some how run both?

or what should i do?

skaterfromvt
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I decided to work on the 240 today since its like 62 degrees here in PA and i did alot of the things that you guys suggested

No I.c Leaks

I pulled the ecu and got the codes but i couldnt find the answers to what the codes ment or what i need to do to fix these codes but the 2 codes were

89 240 sx sohc

1 Red 2 Green (12)and4 Red 1 Green (41)

????help!@

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skaterfromvt wrote:So correct me if im wrong...

I just have a FMU (no stock unit)

if i buy a FPR should i replace the fmu with just the FPR or

Should i some how run both?

or what should i do?
If you have a ECU tune then you don't want to run the FMU. So you'll need to run a regular FPR. If I were you I'd buy an adjustable one. Are you sure you don't have a stock FPR? It's attached to the rail.

What size injectors do you have? Is the tune for those injectors exactly?

Read this for the ecu codes.

Nissan Diagnostic How To

skaterfromvt
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Hey i appoligize for the reply earlier...i was confused...yes i do have a stock Fuel Pressure regulator!! the one on the fuel rail

I have bought an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator...with a built in gauge

*****THE GOOD NEWS TODAY I PUT THE FUEL PUMP BACK IN******AND I REMOVED THE FMU AND PUT A STRAIGHT LINE IN AND IT ACTUALLY RAN!! WHOOP WHOOP!!

ITS BUILDINT BOOST AND ITS RUNNING GOOD JOB GUYS

THE ONLY THING IS...I AM STILL HAVING PROBLEMS WITH IT

*WHITE SMOKE FROM THE EXHAUST*

and when i get around 3400 rpms the boost is all being dumped and im not getting constant boost

along with some pretty scary backfires when i give it all the pedal its shooting like 2 foot flames out of it

the injectors i got from an rx7 were the ones from an 89 through 95

I guess all i need help with now is why there is white smoke coming out of the exaust

why its dumping all my boost around 3400

Along with when i give it full pedal its choking out and its i guess spitting or missing..or something weird like a stuttering

Could this be, because of the stock fuel pressure regulator choking it out? or could it be, getting to much fuel and its not firing right? help!

but hey atleast i got it running again...thanks for the input on pulling out the FMU good job guys!

240FeVeR
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you need to lay off that lead foot off the throttle until u have everything sorted out. Going WOT on a turbo KAE with all those problems will lead to another thread in couple of days "hay guise i got rid of the blue smoke, now it's all black!" or "i tinks i brokeded it".

skaterfromvt
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I got the fuel pressure regulator today

how do i install this thing!and how much psi should i run if im running around 10lbs of boost on a t3/t4 on injectors out of an 89 rx7

skaterfromvt
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installed the frp but for some reason the gauge isnt working...just my luck...does the gauge work on vacuum or from pressure from the fuel??

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spooled240
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nah, should just run off the fuel pressure..check the directions or check the installation again-it should work right off the bat unless it's busted.

I think the fuel pressure depends on your tune, but in most cases a reflashed ecu is "plug and play" meaning you should just run the stock fuel pressure and you'll be fine..

Also check that oil it might be 50/50 gasoline mix by now..

skaterfromvt
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yea i opend the filler gap and smelled it and theres def gas in the oil ill change it before i drive it again..

I played with the gauge could not get the gauge to work still but i adjusted the fpr and i could def tell that it was working because i could choke it out and i could get it to back fire when it was running to rich

I can also give it pedal now with out it choking out so it was a fuel problem

Thanks for all the help

Now all i need is how to run my vacuum lines the right way so i can get my boost to stay constant and my waiste gate to open more constant

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spooled240
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How much is your gauge moving? Few pounds? Tell us from memory, don't do a test by driving the car up and down the street at WOT lol, try and keep the car running at a minimal especially with the rich condition and gassy oil.

skaterfromvt
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The 240 is deadlined right now i gotta bolt the exhaust back to the turbo the 3 bolts came off it...and it has a flat tire, and the fuel pump gasket is leaking and i gotta change the oil, and i got may or may not have blown a hole right through the muffler with a back fire! crazy...

um the fuel pressure reg doesnt even look like its moving at all...no biggy the car was running fairly well...

what does WOT mean?....wide open trottle?...if i could drive wot i would...i gotta get this thing fixed before it'll let me do that...

still have the white smoke from the exhaust coming out and i noticed my coolant went down a little...but i just had the head gasket replaced...


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