new to imports and have a problem

Nissan 350z / Nissan 370z technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

So I changed my valve cover gaskets and accidentally took out one of the three tiny grounds under the engine cover. Reconnected it car started up fine so I touched the wrote and it bogged down and died. I've checked all fuses in all three boxes everything is normal. Also new wire connected and new connector to be safe and still nothing please help!!!!


agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Forgot to mention it's an 03 350z figured that might be helpful.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Update changed inline canister on the harness between cylinder 2 and 3. Ecu is linking with scanner but only getting u1001 code. Still no start though. Also not getting any power to start Sig fuse with and without cranking located behind the kick panel. It seems I have to open the entire harness to find the short. Also 36 views no replies... Thanks guys at least call me an idiot haha

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Hey a40 - I didn't quite understand part of the first post - you touched the what before the car bogged / died?

U1001 means no communication between the ECU and other control units that are part of the CAN system (Controller Area Network)... OR that at some point there was no communication. So, let's do this: Clear the code (if you can with your scanner). If you can't, disconnect the battery for 15-20 mins and reconnect.

Let us know if the code returns.

If there's a short, there's going to be a blown fuse - if all fuses are intact, we'll move on to the next area of diagnosis.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

I'm sorry autocorrect in the first post I disconnected one of the three grounds mounted under the engine cover above the belt drive

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Gotcha - Try the above and let us know what happens. :)

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

I've already tried three ways pedal reset scanner to clear codes and battery disconnect I think I've traced the problem to crank sensor. But this is mostly trial and error. I hate how everything is tied together in this car.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Just replaced crack sensor that wasn't it I'm starting to get frustrated with this thing

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Crank sensor* also still no power to start signal fuse in kick panel while cranking could this just be a relay?

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

I'm thinking fusible link may be the issue...

You're testing it with the key in the cranking position, right?

Did you check all the fuses in the box behind the battery?

Are you getting power at the starter solenoid?

The fusible links are the square fuses next to the battery. They have clear tops so you can look in them and see if they are blown, but it is better to pull them and check them with a volt meter.

#82 in the IPDM fires up the ecm relay - Might want to try swapping the ecm relay with the fog light relay. See below:

Image

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

OK so I took apart the fuse box to see if there was a broken connection manually powered up the starter signal fuse traced it to the back where it connects to the harness only to find out it only has a wire in but not out. I have an automatic so I'm thinking maybe that's only used in the 6 speed version. I'm also now getting a bank one cam sensor code. Will this keep it from starting or is this a product of no start. I'm also getting power to the coils now but no ground pulse to make it fire.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

OK so the fog light relay and the ecm relay are completely different so I figured I'd use the ac relay and still nothing. My father is an ase certified mechanic and he's been troubleshooting with me over the phone he seems to think it's a grounding issue something to do with a grounding plate he says I can't seem to find anything of the sorts. Will my cam sensor stop the car from sending spark as a precaution?

User avatar
RicerX
Moderator
Posts: 2703
Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:36 am
Car: '20 Titan Pro4X
Location: Southeastern US

Post

I don't think the cam sensor would prevent a start - pretty sure that could just cause the car to run in "limp" mode at the most.

I'm researching the issue for you to see what I can find. Electrical issues suck. I will rally up some more Z guys for you as well.

User avatar
sx moneypit
Posts: 8911
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:54 am
Car: 2010 Nissan 370Z
1986 Toyota MR2
Location: Memphis,Tn.

Post

I can't recall a VQ35 that wouldn't start because of a bad cam sensor but i would replace both of them anyway because they have a very high failure rate.Nissan had a recall that entailed replacing the cam and crank sensors.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Just tested the sensors their both good. Used this 15000 dollar snap on code reader. I can't figure out why I'd be getting no ground pulse to the coils. Theirs a bad ground somewhere but everything is in and on is there any fusible links that I can't see that run into that hard plastic wire cover behind cylinder 1

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Update after taking both sensors out and cleaning them I'm no longer throwing any codes at all and still no spark. Mechanic is mind boggled as well as I am... Wtf with this thing

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

This HAS to be a ground issue. It's too coincidental. After I bought my S14, I drove it home and it ran fine, but the valve cover leaked. Pulled the cover, replaced the gasket, but in the process, removed the grounds on the exhaust side. I put them back on, but after that, EVERYTHING was haywire. Ran poorly, knock sensor code, crank sensor code, etc. I knew the ONLY electrical thing I messed with was that ground. I took it back off and looked at it, and it seemed fine, but I used some sandpaper and lightly sanded both sides of the ground wire eyelet, used a wire brush wheel on the bolt, and sanded the head where the eyelet bolted down. Then I used some conductive anti seize (like what you would use on spark plug threads) and put it on all of the surfaces, then put it all back together. Fired right up, and ran perfectly. It didn't look corroded, but it was. Afterwards, I think the issue was that the aluminum was corroded and wouldn't make contact. Corroded aluminum doesn't look that different than uncorroded aluminum. I would also look in the FSM and find out what that ground is for. If it goes all the way back to the ECU, use a multimeter and confirm that it has no resistance to ground AT THE ECU plug. You need to unplug it from the ECU to properly test it. If it doesn't go back to the ECU find out what it goes do, and confirm that it has no resistance to ground. Also, confirm that all of the metal parks of the engine (both heads and the block) all have no resistance to ground. Also make sure the negative battery cable has no resistance to ground.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Starting to feel like this is the ipdm any body else have an idea?

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

float's post makes a ton of sense.

I once scored a 2001 Corvette in pristine condition for about half of KBB because the owner couldn't afford to fix it. All it needed was good grounds.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Everything is spotlessi changed body ground wheni bought it multiple 0 gauge wires From the battery and a couple 4 gauges running off those

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

Check and clean them again. That's the only variable between before - and - after.

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

The ecu was manually tested it's sending pulse out so what comes between ignition signal from ecu and coils?

User avatar
frapjap
Posts: 13175
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:46 pm
Car: '99 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
'07 Subaru Legacy
Location: South Coast Massachusetts

Post

Fusible links and grounds are what I would be after. Clean 'em up and at least rule them out!

Glad your ECU tested good though, that would be expensive.

You should also check the CAN-bus computer. Hopefully it isn't shorted.

Do you have some more information?
From these posts, I can't tell if the car cranks at all or if its dead in the water. Can you clarify?
Were there any sparks at all when you did your work? Did you disconnect your battery before doing the original work?
Is the harness to the coil packs tight and clean?
Have you tested the coil?

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Everything on the vehicle is solid cranks with fuel no spark no codes new sensors on everything I think the problem is a bad ground

agent40
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Post

Problem solved broken ground underneath plenum. Thank you to everyone on here who helped out. I'm new to this site so is there anyway I can give you guys credit for the time?

User avatar
frapjap
Posts: 13175
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:46 pm
Car: '99 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
'07 Subaru Legacy
Location: South Coast Massachusetts

Post

Glad it was an easy fix!

Thanks are plenty, that is what we are here for. Just keep coming back and join the community, loads of good folks here!

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

I knew it was a ground! I fixed a car on the internet!!! LOL. Thanks for the e-pats on the back. That's all we need. Just keep coming back. We're here to help.

User avatar
sx moneypit
Posts: 8911
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:54 am
Car: 2010 Nissan 370Z
1986 Toyota MR2
Location: Memphis,Tn.

Post

Glad you got it fixed!! :bigthumb:

User avatar
AZhitman
Administrator
Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

Post

agent40 wrote:Thank you to everyone on here who helped out. I'm new to this site so is there anyway I can give you guys credit for the time?
Stick around, and tell others about us!

Glad to hear you're back in business. :)


Return to “350z / 370z Technical”