Yo guys.. i'm new to the forum.. my roomates got a 240sx with the KA24DE.. anyway i'm used to working on honda's.. not Nissans.. I need some help with some things.

He's planning on running approx 7 psi daily driven. He's got a manifold and T3 turbo, .42 and .48 a/r's internally gated. What are the stock injectors and I understand the 370's out of a silvia are a direct swap?

Also what is a good cheap fuel pump swap that people use? anyone ever tried a turbo DSM fuel pump swap? I am assuming the fuel pump is intank.

As far as fuel management I will an S-AFC be all that is needed? or will we need to run check valves inline with the MAP? I'm not sure if you guys are familiar with the SMC? It's an equivalent to the AFC except it is not digital and costs like 200 less. I may just end up using this to save $. If anyone with a similar setup could give me a few tips that'd be great.

I'm also working on making a custom turbo manifold log style if anyone has any plans that'd be a great help. thanks guys!

stock injectors are 260cc.Sr20det injectors are a direct swap.Use a 300zx fuel pump - do a search to learn how to use this.If you run the 370cc Sr20det injectors, fuel pump, and S-AFC that will be enough.AN S-AFC is only $340. Also of all the places to save money it is not a good one. You are going to want good fuel delivery.

Yes, get new injectors(silvia) and a FMU(12:1) and a SAFC at least, the fuel pump is also a grea thing to get, at 7psi you can run w/o a new pump but it is a great idea to get one though to be safe...Good Luck

From what I gather 6-8 lbs on a t3, one could use the KA injectors and fuel pump (would go walbro just for safety and only around 120$) and run a rising rate FPR, and it should be safe. 6:1 will also work from what I hear, if you use the stock fuel pump, as the stock pump wont handle a 12:1.

My plan is to get either a t3 or a t3/t40E wastgated with oil and coolant lines. I plan to run a silvia SMIC with as much piping oem as possible to cut costs, and ease install. Probably going to run the walbro 225 L/hr fuel pump (had one then sold it because funds got low), 300zx TT injectors (friend has a few vg30dett engines and will sell me 4 for cheap), a super afc and possibly a retuned ecu. I plan on only running 8 psi but want to make sure the fuel is there, just in case, as a spike may occur and toss your engine pretty quick. Some people have done close to that setup and run more psi, some have done less and run the same psi. Ka's are very finicky and differ from one to the next. Thats about the cheapest Im willing to go as well.

Nissans dont use MAP, but MAF sensors, so the setup will be a little different. Like If you use a atmosperic BOV and no s-afc your car may stall upon quick deacceleration due to an overly rich condition caused my a mass loss of metered air. The s-afc can accomodate for this.

Also the retuned ecu will set you up with a nice baseline. The super afc can be then fiddled (or dyno tuned ) with to optimize the situation.

thanks.. yeah i can get an AFC for 285 shipped.. but i can get the SMC for like a little over 100 dollars.. it's the same exact thing... just not digital.. it's almost like the old skool S-AFC, just APEXi doesn't make it so it's 1/2 price . thanks for the advice on the fuel pump and injectors.

so why would i need an FMU in addition to running an AFC? couldn't it completely with the AFC and not need the FMU basing on the RPMS?

and has anyone tried using a Turbo DSM (Eclipse, Talon, Laser) fuel pump?

my bad.. i can't read .. i'll just be using a S-AFC rather than the FMU.. but for people who use the FMU.. get the SMC.. it's a better option and it's the same price! it's just the cheap man's AFC.

Yeah If you get the retune (I cant rem if you "need" this with a s-afc but I do know you dont "need" a s-afc with a retune it just helps especially with a atmospheric bov) and s-afc you dont need the FMU.

The fmu is there to put extra pressure into the injectors making them flow more then normal at 100% duty cycle. With the stock ecu and mass air flow sensor, it will sense a ton of incomming air and be like wtf is this. Then it will max out the injectors, but it wont be enough as at stock psi will only be 260cc. The FMU is there to increase pressure as the boost kicks in, per psi. This takes up the slack for when the normal ecu bugs out and dumps 100%, but now it will be 100% plus extra pressure simulating a larger injector Thus no boom boom, to an extent of course hehe

With an FMU you WILL need a new pump, a walbro 225 pump will be the best option in my humble opinion and many many others. Its relatively cheap drops right in basically and has a proven track record in KA-T and SR setups. The stock pump just cant flow the needed pressure. And since you WILL need a FMU you WILL need a new pump See how it works hehe. If you fail to follow these steps you WILL need a new block hehe

Any way some FA setups can be found HERE of peoples times with just an FMU of some sorts. Its a good thread because it shows a quick example of different setups, and how they vary, on the low buck approch.

Heres another I recently read, again FA (dont know if there is a cross forum ruling here but oh well), concerning s-afc injectors and FMU's and simple setups that can be found HERE

Im sure some helpfull info can be found here just gotta try searching for different keywords.

yeah.. i've used FMU's before and i think they seriously suck ***.. just my opinion of course but there isn't close to as much variability as there is with the AFC.. I know the AFC isn't boost dependent but it is a easy as cake to tune with and does the job exceptionally well. I just wanted to make sure that I could just use a S-AFC and no check valves with the silvia injectors to run the setup. Like I said before I'm used to dealing with MAP's in honda applications where you need to use check valves and such.. it's nice not to have to deal with that!

thanks for the help

one last question.. running 8 psi.. how much should i retard the timing?