my neighbor has a datsun 280z that they would sell me for 200 bucks!i just recently bought my 240sx and rebuilt the engine and it runs good. im still building it(upgrade suspension, rims and tires, ect.) and now i want to buy this awesome looking car. the owner is a elderly women who keeped mad good shape of this car. the only thing is small cracks in the dash and the driver seat is a little worn other than that, GREAT. the speedo says 55k. its manual.thats looks.
now for it running, the cars been sitting for a few years. my girlfriend said that the old ladys son use to start it every once and awhile but that was around 2 years ago. i need to try to jump it to see if it even will start
so what you guys think and any info about this kinda car would be awesome too (besides that its a awesome old school nissan )
ill post pic when i get home
new to 280z
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evildky
- Posts: 14225
- Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:23 pm
- Car: 71 Datsun 240ZT
87 Nissan 300ZX N/A-T
06 Nissan 350Z GT
Toyota Tundra TRD RW - Location: Louisville, KY
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these cars are pretty simple, dependable and easy to work on, the 280's shortcoming is the fue injection system, it's an early system and most failures are due to cracked hoses or injector clips or failing afm's, age takes it's toll and many of htese parts are hard to come by and expensive, thats why many people swap to carbs on the injected cars, the fuel injection can be maintained but you just have to accept that these parts won't last forever
when looking at any Z car, look for RUST! look everywhere! look in the floor boards, frame rails, inner fenders above and behind the front wheels, strut towers, sway nar mounts, battery tray, rockers, lower fenders, spare tire well, hatch lip and just about all the rest fo the metal on the car, it's way cheaper to buy a good chassis with bad mechanicals that good mechanicals on a bad chassis, the mechanical bits tend to last and be fairly cheap, aside fomr the afm
when looking at any Z car, look for RUST! look everywhere! look in the floor boards, frame rails, inner fenders above and behind the front wheels, strut towers, sway nar mounts, battery tray, rockers, lower fenders, spare tire well, hatch lip and just about all the rest fo the metal on the car, it's way cheaper to buy a good chassis with bad mechanicals that good mechanicals on a bad chassis, the mechanical bits tend to last and be fairly cheap, aside fomr the afm
Re: (evildky)
cool thanks for the info i dont see any rust really except for the exhaust and a few replaceable parts.now im stuck on what i should do with it. like sell it make a quick buck ($800) off a friend who wants to restor it and with that money keep upgrading my 240, keep it and have my friend who wants to restor it help me do it(but its gonna cost 5 to 6g's he says) then split the money for selling it at a antique car auction, or just keep it and do it myself restoring it super slow cause i dont have much money to do it.
i really want this car and i dont think ill ever get a chance like this in my life time. but the funds are what kill me. the car is one owner (the old lady who has it bought it brand new back in the day) its a 75, real good interior, no rust on chassi (that i can see)
opinions???????
i really want this car and i dont think ill ever get a chance like this in my life time. but the funds are what kill me. the car is one owner (the old lady who has it bought it brand new back in the day) its a 75, real good interior, no rust on chassi (that i can see)
opinions???????