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A General Discussion forum for cars and other topics, and a great place to introduce yourself if you are new to NICO!
Nizmo Nub
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:17 pm
Car: Soon to be a 95ish s14

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Names Chris,

I am an old 4g63T DSM guy, 92 TSI Awd Lsd yaddda yadda yadda - 856Whp @ 27Psi.. Anyway that was 8 years ago and before kids.. if you're really that interested it can be found on the dsmtuner threads # Lowcountrydsm

So I honestly don't know much about the Rb's and 240's but since I am a Nissan fan and have heard amazing things about the power potential and being a CAST iron block :woot: I decided to start a build so I figured I would start here. Reason for deciding to start a new build is I got some guys I know (3) that for WHAT EVER reason have all recently bought Mazda 3 speeds... No big deal right? Wrong because these guys Hail Mary these cars like they were gods fastest gift to mankind and they are 100% legit stock other than a few shocker/ratchet stickers "Nuff said" sooo after months of listening to their bullsh1t I have decided to sell my MV Agusta F3800 and start my own build. I was leaning towards the s14 RB26 .20 with the RB25 trans, but after reading for the last few weeks and talking to my local performance shop guys, we have decided to go with the s14/Rb25 and start on a fresh motor due to the fabrication and honestly for the money I would have in swapping to the RB26 I could easily make more power for less money with the RB25. Not looking to make CRAZY power, stay around 500-550Whp. Is 25psi a crazy number for this power plant would be one of my first questions or what is a "suitable" boost range for the bottom end with mild eagle set up with out sleeves?? .. I haven't bought the donor car or power plant yet as like I said I don't feel as though I know enough about it yet to take that step forward, so any imput or other directional ideas are welcomed.

And yes, When we start this project It will be 100% documented and posted and the majority of the work will be done by Sneeds Speed Shop out of Pfafftown, North Carolina aside from the Cosmetics which will be done by Myself and an old Hot Rod friend of mine @ his house in his personal body shop.


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float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
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Finding the chassis will be the hardest part. They aren't hard to find, but they're all ragged out wannabe drift missiles. The ones that aren't have drift tax on them (they go for WAY more than book value due to demand). These are also getting old enough that rust is starting to be an issue. Look for a car from the SW part of the country. I wish I had anyway, LOL.

As for the motor, I think you're on the right track with the RB25 w/mods. And honestly, I don't personally think you need to do anything with the bottom end at all at that power level, but the tuning had better be spot on at that level with stock internals. The rods will give you a bit of a safety net should the tuning be off, but I would be more worried about the pistons than the rods. The factory pistons are cast, while the rods are forged.

As for that power level and boost range, both have been achieved with stock bottom ends on the RB25/26. As long as you have the supporting mods and good tuning, you'll be fine.... IMHO.

Oh, and welcome to NICO!

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frapjap
Posts: 13175
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:46 pm
Car: '99 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
'07 Subaru Legacy
Location: South Coast Massachusetts

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Welcome to NICO!

You've got a pretty awesome plan for your new build.
I don't know a ton about RB's, but there is a load of collective knowledge in this community.
Be sure to pop into the RB forum and you'll get an audience who will be able to help you out more thoroughly.
rb20-rb25-rb26-forum.html

Can't wait to see the build!

Nizmo Nub
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:17 pm
Car: Soon to be a 95ish s14

Post

float_6969 wrote:Finding the chassis will be the hardest part. They aren't hard to find, but they're all ragged out wannabe drift missiles. The ones that aren't have drift tax on them (they go for WAY more than book value due to demand). These are also getting old enough that rust is starting to be an issue. Look for a car from the SW part of the country. I wish I had anyway, LOL.

As for the motor, I think you're on the right track with the RB25 w/mods. And honestly, I don't personally think you need to do anything with the bottom end at all at that power level, but the tuning had better be spot on at that level with stock internals. The rods will give you a bit of a safety net should the tuning be off, but I would be more worried about the pistons than the rods. The factory pistons are cast, while the rods are forged.

As for that power level and boost range, both have been achieved with stock bottom ends on the RB25/26. As long as you have the supporting mods and good tuning, you'll be fine.... IMHO.

Oh, and welcome to NICO!

Thanks for the reply, We are going to rebuild the bottom end that's for sure just because there's no point in having a motor with 100k+ miles out of the car and not rebuilding it. Especially when its something you did not put the miles on yourself. That and I want something I can trust. The Wiseco Pistons / Eagle Rods Combo kit is only 1,400$ with the crank collar and main studs. That's a bit pricy but to ME the added reliability is worth it @20psi +, I don't know if you have ever run that kind of boost but stuff tends to start breaking around 20 if you haven't pampered it or drive hard a lot. Sneeds speed shop not far from my house is one of the best in the country, winning 3 indoor regional racing championships in the last 4 years so tuning shouldn't be a issue.


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