New Swap Won't Start

[BaliLover]

I've finally gotten around to finishing my swap, and I've got the physical install done, but I can't get the engine to start. It cranks fine, very quickly, but it won't fire up, it doesn't even stumble. I figure since it takes air, fuel, and spark to start a motor I'd check them all. At the moment, I have the MAFS plugged in, but its not inline with anything, none of my piping is connected. I didn't think this would be a problem since the TB is still getting air.

Next I crank it some more and smell gas, so I pull the plugs and each one is damp or wet. So I'm guessing I have fuel.

I hook each of the coil packs to a plug and ground it to check for spark. I get a bright blue spark on every one.

I started thinking compression so I checked that and, although a bit low, I think it should still allow it to fire. I got 130 on Cylinder one, 139 on two, 130 on three, and 145 on four.

I tried turning the CAS in both directions slowly and that didn't work either.

My Vaccume lines are all capped at the moment, so I'm not sure if that would cause a problem or not. What else woudl you guys suggest checking?

I did notice that I can't tell if the coilpacks are making a positive lock on the plugs, they seem to be easy to pull out when the screw is undone.

[yellow_jacket]

Did you install the CAS? is it clocked correctly? Did you try starting the car like it is flooded?

[quiksilvia]

my cooilpacks come out fine, is ur timing all set fo sho? battery charged? the mafs not having pipe around it could be affecting it also

[solaris22]

none of my piping is connected

connect your piping

[BaliLover]

The battery is charged fully and the motor spins with no problem and good speed. I am not sure about the timing, I didn't mess with it when I got it. The CAS was installed so I assume its where it needs to be. I moved it both clockwise and counter clockwise a little bit at a time but that didn't change anything. I tried connecting the MAFS directly to the TB just to see if airflow had something to do with it, but it didn't make any difference.

[Movingviolation240]

I had a similar problem with my car, after I installed injectors. Turnned out it was the injector seals. 3 of them got torn when I re-used them (I know dumb idea) All the extra fuel that was leaking in made my plugs wet and either they were fuel fouled out or it was just to rich to start. Either way it didn't want to run untill I replaced the seals and then it ran like a champ.

So you have fuel and spark, just have to make sure you have it in the right ammount and at the right time. Mixture and timing

I've seen a lot of SR's where the CAS is 180 degree's off, so you might want to double or triple check that.

Paul

[BaliLover]

I want to try to do everything I can before I have to pull the VC again, I just put a new gasket on it and I used some sealant. How can I go about checking timing without pulling it?

[Movingviolation240]

put it on TDC on the compression stroke (you can find that just by pulling the spark plug) then pull the CAS out and align the dots like you normally would, stick it back in and give it a try.

Also unblot the fuel rail with the lines still attached and turn the key on to kick the fuel pump on and check for leaks.

You can always just take all the bolts out of the CAS and flip it around 180 and see what happens.

Paul

[BaliLover]

And if all this fails (the TDC and checking the CAS) what should I try next?

[ride4lame]

connect all the piping!!! if its not all connected you have a massive vacuum leak, you have to connect all the piping and setup the vacuum lines. the mafs also has to be hooked up right. I tried running mine without intercooler piping to make sure it would start. Doesnt work. I also truied without an intake pipe for the mafs. that won't let it work either. just finish everything then try. Then you will be able to narrow donw problems better.

[BaliLover]

I know theres no vaccume leaks, all of the lines are capped at the moment. I just can't see how not having the piping attached would prevent it from starting, its still getting air either way, and with the MAFS hooked directly to the TB, it is still reading the correct amount of air taken in. It should at least fire up. It may idle poor and run like crap, but it should still fire.

[Movingviolation240]

Try unplugging the MAF alltogether and letting the computer kick the car into 'limp mode' see if it runs like that.

But just so you know I have run my car NA in exactly the same manor your described (MAF stuck onto TB). You know you should really run a vacume line to the fuel pressure regulator. I don't think that's causing your car to 'not start' but it can't be helping the situation either.

Paul

[BaliLover]

The FPR is the one thing that actually has a Vaccume line going to it from the TB, I'm not exactly sure I'm in the right place with it, but since I'm getting fuel I'm guessing I'm close enough for now.

[Movingviolation240]

Is it to the TB or to the nipple behind the TB. If you don't have enough vacume on the regulator it will be pushing to much fuel through and that could be a problem.

The FPR needs to be hooked up to the line that's behind the throttle body, on the intake manifold itself.

Paul

[BaliLover]

Okay, just got home, its still not starting.

I checked timing, put the 2nd mark on the left of the crank pulley even with the pointer, checked to make sure cylinder 1 was at the top, removed the CAS, set the mating marks, reinserted it centered, and bolted it down. Still nothing, not even a stumble. I rechecked for spark and every plug will spark on every coilpack.

Fuel seems to be an issue, but I could be wrong about this too. When I pull the plugs, they're pretty wet with gas. I blow them off with air and blow out the cylinders too, but after more cranking they're pretty wet again. I'm assuming they're wet becasue the fuel isn't being ignited and is just sitting unburned but I could be wrong.

The FPR is hooked to the left most vaccume tit on the intake itself.

On my CAS, the plug is on the front side of the motor. I'm assuming this to be correct since it doesn't appear it can go the other way. Either way I lined up the dots as usual. I tried turning it right and left slowly but that didn't change anything, not even the way it sounded when it was cranking.

[yellow_jacket]

Are you sure all of your grounds are hooked up? The fact that you plugs are wet would usually indicate no spark. Did you try and set the CAS 180degrees from where it is now? If you don't have your piping hooked up I would definetely disconnect your maf. My guess right now is the CAS is 180 off.

[BaliLover]

Definately getting spark, I've already see to that.

Can the CAS be 180 degrees off and still have the dots line up with the line? I just don't see the CAS being able to physically go 180 and still go back into place or plug in.

[BaliLover]

The only other thing I can think of is that the coilpacks aren't making good secure contact with the plugs in the cylinders but I really have no way of checking that.

[yellow_jacket]

As Paul stated, it can be off and will go back into place like that and plug in. Remember, you are not rotating the housing, you are rotating the shaft.

[Movingviolation240]

your CAS can be 180 off so the car is throwing spark on the exhaust stroke insted of the compression one. That's what he's telling you to check. So pull the thing out, rotate the motor one turn, and re-install it.

Paul

[BaliLover]

Okay, now I understand, set up the crank pulley with the pointer, check for TDC on Cylinder one, remove CAS, rotate motor around 1 time and line the crank pulley mark back up, reinstall CAS. Am I correct?

[yellow_jacket]

yep

[BaliLover]

Thankyou both Paul and YJ, that was excatly what the problem was, I rolled it around one time, threw the CAS back in, and it fired right up. Seems to run and idle pretty good for an engine thats not all connected. Now I can start putting my engine bay back together.

[stumpz]

yeah, timing was my worst enemy the first swap.