New susp....lil probs

[NICONick]

So I finally lowered my car and I'm running Tokico Blues w/ Sportlines, but anyways me and a buddy installed them on wednesday and recently I have been experiencing some rear wheel hop (only way to describe it) when I go over bumps esp. when Im accelerating or turning or accelerating through a turn and catch a bumpy part of the road....

Any clue why this might be happening?

HELP!

[slyedog240sx]

did you go get a wheel alignment? it is necessary.

[NICONick]

I am aware that it is necessary although Ive been told to wait about a week to 2 wks in order for everything to settle and then get the alignment....

Could alignment be the cause of my wheel hop?

Whats causing this wheel hop?

[zenkii]

I gots the same problem, after i installed my coilovers. I've been doing a bit of research and i think rear subframe collars/spacers should fix the problem. And about the alignment part, it shouldn't be whats giving the wheel hop because its more likely to be increase stress onto the rear subframe.

[newfengshui]

if you get an alignment at les schwab (tire company in the west) they'll re-align it for you in a few weeks if need be for free.

i had my car aligned 8 times in 1.5 months. all for free.

[NICONick]

So, if i replace the rear subframe bushings that should get rid of my wheel hop problem ?

[gumby74]

Unless tended to already, consider your car is well over 10 years old, as are all your bushings etc etc.I dont know what you financial situation is like, but its time to start replacing/ upgrading all the wear items under your baby.Subframe bushings, control arm bushings, tie rods and ends, t/c rods, balljoints, everything down there. You dont have to be hard core and get heim joints, the E/S hyperflex set is a great affordable way to start.Preaching is over. That said, start with the subframe bushings, and check the control arms while you are down there.

[NICONick]

Tie-rods and ends as well as T/C rods are on their way, but I would like to get rid of this wheel hop problem im running into. So, if I order the Prothane set of bushings and jus replace everything that should work? Or can I buy JUST sub frame bushings? Which would be the best route to go? I know like the whole set is only like $100 or so....

[zenkii]

In my opinion, i think you should just go with the rear subframe spacers. A lot of people go with the aluminium kind because its cheaper. However, people complain that they made weird noises, so i think the best choice are the poly spacer bushings. It is because they work the same as the alternative and there was no complain. The third alternative is changing the whole rear subframe them selves, which requires to take down the whole subframe(too much hassle and need torching). Anyways replacing all bushing wouldn't be neccesary because some aftermarket links uses balljoints.

[NICONick]

So, between replacing the bushing collars, the actualy bushings themselves to the aluminum style, and the bushing spacers....my best bet in getting rid of my wheel hop would be to go with the spacers ?

[gumby74]

It may help. Something else to consider is the dampening and the spring rates causing this problem. Maybe someone with an identical set up will post up to verify this.That your subframe has some play is a given, assuming its not the spring rates and dampers, it may be time to start making compromises on your set up. Either new bushings or heim joints will be a beneficial investment. Of course, there are trade-offs, solid mounting= precision but noisy, urethane= firm but still flexible.

[positron1]

When I put spacers on and a new set of endlinks, d-bracket bushings and endlink bushings on my stock rear swaybar it really cut back on the wheelhop. I still need an alignment though with my new rear suspension parts to tweak the rest of it away.

[NICONick]

I dont think its my set-up because there are plenty of S13's out there with the sportlines so I dont think its the set-up. I just think I need to stiffen things up back there. I'm gonna take a better look at things tomorrow. Hopefully replacing the bushings will solve my wheel hop prob.

EDIT* What should be the first thing I order to solve this wheel hop problem? Bushings? Collars? Spacers? Which would be my best bet?
Modified by NICONick at 9:55 AM 6/10/2007

[positron1]

If your subframe bushings are in bad shape then shoot for the collars first to tighten up the slop in the subframe. If not, they say that the rear upper control arms are the "backbone" of the rear suspension. Put new bushings in those first or just get a aftermarket set.

[NICONick]

I had planned on getting RUCAs anyway, but could the stock RUCAs be causing me to get this wheel hop ?

[yokota180sx]

some of these responses are hilarious, and lack any mechanical knowledge

Get yourself some aluminum subframe and diff spacers

but first get an alignment, that very well could be your sole problem

and if you still have wheelhop issues, get yourself some better engine and transmission mounts.

[NICONick]

This may sound like another stupid question, but how will replacing the engine and transmission mounts rid me of my wheel hop? And where would the best place to get these alum. subframe and diff spacers? Thanks in advance for all the help.

[yokota180sx]

well engine doesnt really

but transmission contributes to itanything that moves as little as possible in yuor drivetrain will limit your wheel hop

[NICONick]

Thanks. Well Im taking a good look at it tomorrow with a buddy Anthony (Structure240sx) so we'll get to the bottom of it. Where is the best place to get the spacers tho ?

[yokota180sx]

splparts.com

[Brandon93240]

Your right about movement. The most over looked coulprit on s and z chasis cars is the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. E36 and E39 Bmws are bad also. If you have more than 1/8-1/4 up and down play it needs replacing. When I worked at a Nissan dealer I replaced atleast 10 of these, between Z's and S's, that was was 10 years ago. Use a pry bar and with the car in the air, pry up and down on various suspension components, engine/trans mounts, driveshaft and look for things that are loose, then replace.

[NICONick]

more than 1/8-1/4'' of play in what? the driveshaft carrier bearing? or the rear subframe? If I have more than that amount of movent in my subframe it needs replacing?

[yokota180sx]

in the driveshat carrier bearing

your subframe will be fine once you get Aluminium bushing things

did a world of difference for my car

[NICONick]

How do I measure the play within the driveshaft carrier bearing and what is entailed in replacing it as far as the job and cost of the part (s)? whats needed ?

[Brandon93240]

With the car in neutral and with the ebrake on, push up and down on the driveshaft, one hand on the front shaft, one hand on the rear shaft, if it moves more than 1/4 it needs replacing. For the cost you could get a one piece from the driveshaft shop.

[NICONick]

Could this play in my driveshaft be adding to my wheel hop issue? or Is it just something good to do ?

[Brandon93240]

It very well possibly can. You can usually feel it on acceleration, a viberation behind the front seats. Its alot easier to detect in s13's because they don't have lsd's, it makes the driver's wheel hop more noticeably.